AdamB

Does your engine builder not own a micrometer? I wouldn't go with the numbers marked as the chances are the journals are going to be slightly oval so they need to be measured.

bump

You will need some billet main caps on a 4E if your going to run a serious amount of gas. Go with what your tuner is comfortable with, end of the day your expensive engine is in their hands.

Air intake temp sensor possibly.

Hi spec is good, there was a custom wilwood kit made specific for starlets but are starting to come pretty rare and hard to get hold of. Other options are K-sport / D2 6 pot but you will have a nightmare finding wheels that fit over the calipers.

Depends on your fuel setup. No reason why you can't run 200 shot but you need to be able to provide the extra fuel to match the extra oxygen.

That's fair enough everyone is different, but you don't have to have that punch in the back feeling to actually be going fast, getting a great surge of power all of a sudden does actually make a car harder to drive believe it or not, I'm not talking about F1 or any other race series but having a massive surge of power like a tuned starlet doesn't provide the same car control as something that has a nice smooth torque curve. Yeah the sense of speed varies but a lot of it is also to do with the surroundings, a 150bhp small little 1.6 litre would feel sluggish on a motorway but on the back r

First and foremost what's your budget? You will be talking around £1200 for AP calipers alone.

The MSc Engine design is good at Brookes, but if your gonna do it I would get in fast because at the moment there is a wealth of knowledge here to do with the design of racing engines.

I did Motorsport Technology at Oxford Brookes, its a cracking uni tbh because a lot of race teams, not just F1 based are located in and around Oxfordshire. The courses here are actually put together by those in the F1 industry hence why a lot of Brookes graduates end up in F1. You do really need to ask the question in what you want to do though, engine building and chassis tuning like you mentioned you will not cover. The aim of uni is to allow you to design, so you need to be good with maths and physics, as well as having a good imagination when it comes to creating components from a blan

So a car that gives a big punch in the back must be fast right? Take something like the Corvette ZR1, has 640bhp but does that mean its slower than what a 640bhp Subaru would be? Or slower than a 640bhp Skyline? That's the great thing about wide torque curves it doesn't feel like your going fast until you look down at the speedo, its those cars that make driving fun because they are smoother and easier to drive unlike driving a 600bhp Subaru that actually only has 600bhp and like 400 ft/lbs for like 300rpm, and if your competitive racing you would have to be a damn good driver to keep

Yes you can if you can find somewhere who will make the hoses with the correct lengths and angles. Pro's: Less heat transfer Same sizing throughout so there will be no steps in the pipe work when it joins into the cooler and throttle body giving smoother transitional flow. Con's Finding someone to manufacture them and the cost Other companies have used mild steel pipe work because its thermal transfer properties are greater than that of other materials.

Ah I see, best bet would be to just get it rebuilt using fresh new parts and have it cleaned out really good

Weight isn't really a big issue in terms of handling ability because suspension design has come on leaps and bounds. I'm not saying that weight reduction doesn't help, of course it does, but when you compare a 20 year old Pulsar to a more modern hot hatch it would be left behind even if the weights are 1200kg and 1400kg respectively. The old Pulsar was quite a fat bastard at 1230kg because of the heft 4wd system and many new modern hot hatches are around this sort of weight even with all the extra safety equipment anf electrical goodies because more plastics and other lightweight materials are

They are probably the lightest set of 15's you can get, I would keep hold of them unless you have nothing to put them on.

I understand its not running at the moment mate, was just asking how it was before it got stripped as if it did run low on oil or oil pressure was low was there any signs of knocking as that would usually be the first things to go. When your machine guy says worn, does he mean that they just aren't in tolerance, or there is actual wear marks like scoring etc on them? The E series has no problem with the pins, the 4E does have really small rod journals though however at 200bhp you should have no issues what so ever.

No it won't be the cause of your loss of compression. Because the E series isn't a true twin cam design both cams are meshed together and the service bolt just keeps the inlet cam tensioned when you remove the cam caps. All it will do if you didn't tension it, it will just be a bit rattly.

In all honesty the rod and main bearings would generally go before the gedgeon pin however I'm not saying its impossible. Is there any knocking from the engine at all? How's your oil level?

I've seen pins go but that's due to serious oil starvation. Is the machining company a reputable place?

They have been used but mainly in drag cars only. They have been used on the road but they are quite harsh. Certainly not recommended for a daily car and not needed unless your pushing 350 ft/lbs of torque plus.

Zisco don't manufacture them, it's Rogers Garage/ The real tuners in Malta that manufacture them. You'll find them on facebook but they aren't really any cheaper than going through Zisco.

I found it over on TGTT mate. I know the pauter rods I had were 35 ft/lbs.

My mistake they are 28 ft/lbs for ARP 2000 5/16 size bolts mate. 60 ft/lbs is for ARP head studs haha.

I think its 60 ft/lbs but don't quote me on that.

Do they have the correct tip length those ones? Hmm I'm not sure, its going to be hard to tell as it is without test fitting one in a head all built up.