AdamB

I'm 23 this year, so mine would be: Finish uni and get a stable job Save up for about a year to buy a house Possibly get married Have a couple of kids Inbetween that see what new cars are coming out and purchase something that takes my fancy.

Fair enough buddy. What coilovers you using and whats the current spring rate? Regarding the corner weights, Mikey might be your best bet, although he a 91 but I can't imagine there's going to be too much in it, a few kg's here or there.

Can't believe this is still here, such a genuine car that has had no expense spared in parts or man hours! Will be a shame to see it broken if it doesn't go

It certainly would cause some form of hesitation or stuttering. I would try one of the traders mate, getting a brand new one could work out better in the long run.

Aye impact gun for the bolt but it may well be stuck on there, so then get a 3 legged puller to pull it off

AVCR gets my vote, then again I've used HKS is the past with no issues either. I'm not the worlds biggest fan of Blitz, the solenoids are a bit unreliable and are about £180 to replace last time I checked. I know it may sound daft and not questioning your knowledge but how are you setting the EBC up? ( If you're doing it that is not a tuner etc). I see a lot of people get a bit happy with the duty cycle because it gives better response then wonder why they have a melted piston or something lol.

Bump want this gone, doing my fucking nut in.

Out of that list the Nankang is the only racing tyre, the others are classed as summer tyres. I would advise if anyone gets the NS2-R's then to go for the race 120 compound

You can get them cheaper if you look around. I paid £81 for a 215 45 17.

I run them, can't complain at all for the price. Very close to R888 but don't quite give the same feedback as the Toyo's. Dry grip is probably a shade off and the wet grip isn't bad but again any good driver adjust their driving style to suit conditions. A lot of race series are now starting to use these as the control tyre so goes to show how far they have come.

Not a bad price at all then. I've used mine daily with no problems, yes they do squeel a little but nothing terribly bad and the wear rate isn't ridiculous either. They do have a good bite from cold, and work effectively, when I was on track I found that they did end up lacking a bit of bite but they never went off, this is when braking from 115mph down to 25-30mph. For a light starlet the RC5+ is porobably ideal and won't suffer the same problems I did when running a car that's 1200kg +, but on heavier cars the RC6 is likely to be the better option.

Millers again for me. Go for the best oil you can afford is my advice. Some people like above don't like spending £50-£60+ on oil that ends up drained after a small amount of useage, however oil manufacturers spend millions, probably billions of £££ in R&D to give your engine less friction, more power, better lubrication, better fuel economy, better cooling properties blah blah the list goes on and on. Mobil, Castrol Edge, Fuchs, Millers in that order

ttt

My first car was a Vauxhall Corsa sport 1.6 boasting a whopping 106bhp lol. Then had Audi A3 Toyota Starlet Glanza Peugeot 306 1.4 Toyota Starlet GT Black Quad light BMW 316 Compact Toyota Starlet GT white Quadlight Toyota Starlet Sportif N/A Honda Civic EP3

Go with the mappers choice.

They come with aftermarket boost controllers, so they are there for a reason.

It really depends on the tyres your running, if your running a semi slick race tyre then yes its recommended, however if running road tyres your not going to be able to pull the same force under cornering for it to be a problem (unless you run low oil) It depends on many factors really, you got larger diameter, thicker discs and the cars lighter so less harsh on the brakes. Oo Combe's a good track, would love to get at Cadwell, suits small hatchbacks so well but its so far away

Was it the map sensor that was at fault bud? It's normally either a coil or map sensor issue if it only bogs/splutters/missfires at certain rpm range. Exhaust looks sweet though, much prefer them out the back rather than the side exits.

What gauge is it? If it's some cheap chinese ebay jobby they aren't all that accurate. Check for any vac leaks around the bay, intercooler joiners etc.

Begins with H and ends in A Just got myself a GoPro and looking to get back on track after a few tweeks in March/April time when the weather picks up again so will grab some footage As said above though there's no need to go for something "Performance" on the rear as they do very little braking. They can help with the balance of the car though so when you get some good stoppers up front, you can play around with the different friction materials (coefficients of friction) at the rear to get the balance you want, that's why I said RedStuff pads because they work upto 200bhp ish on

Doesn't really make too much difference. depends what you like the look of really.

I use Carbone Lorraine's on my track car and love them. DS2500 will fade on track, especially with the small disc diamter not being able to dissipate heat too well. They are quite expensive though about £140 a set. They are good up to 1100 degrees which is far beyond DS2500, but they are more comparable to DS3000 as they are a track pad.

R-Spec

Could try some EBC redstuff pads, but they do tend to eat discs when worked hard.

Cheers Alan Been tempted to get another EP and slap this on, but I would rather use the car for sprints.