AdamB

There is, look at the K-sports as well, out the same factory I believe. Will have a hard time trying to find a set of wheels that will fit over them though.

Use a bit of string mate, it's what a lot of race teams are using nowadays

Look like gram lights 57c's. Although they look a bit deeper where the spoke meets the rim edge. Or it might just be the fact their white so stands out a bit more. Pretty rare wheels if they are 57c and light as hell.

Wastegate sold.

Up she goes

Boiling point is dependent upon closed vessel pressure. Hence if you run a 1 bar rad cap the boiling point will be 100 degree's C, run 1.2 bar boiling point will be circa 120 degrees C. Again this is dependent on what you are using as the cooling fluid, be it water or anti-freeze of some sort. There are a few companies that manufacture a special formula which is claimed to raise the boiling point, much like an additive, although I've not used any myself.

As above. When you start seeing 115-120 degrees then start worrying. What pressure rad cap are you running?

If your in a hot climate or do some track days. But a 10w40 or 5w40 will be better.

As far as I'm aware, depending on which organisation you book with regarding track days they ask for Snell approved helmets which rules out all motorbike helmets as they are not fireproof lined with nomex. I've already got a bike helmet (AGV) that I've had for a few years, I used it on a trackday through javelin at Bedford, but a friend of mine said that he had to rent at Silverstone because his helmet wasn't Snell approved. I'm also currently looking at getting another helmet, likely a Bell RS3/7.

The 4efte has a knock sensor. How well it works is another question though.

I've been tempted mate but I just don't have the room to keep another car

No harm in adjusting it, but it needs to be setup properly. I know MX5's respond well to advancing the timing up to around 14 degrees from the base timing.

Aye standard households are 16 amp. You will trip that when you get to about 150-160 Amps, depending on your machine and the duty cycle. Depends really on your budget and what you're going to be using it for. Looking to use it to create stuff to sell then it's wise to invest in a good machine, something like Miller, Kemppi, Lincoln. For hobby use and mid range machine would be like R-Tech, Parweld, Thermal Arc, Everlast. Then below that you got your cheap nasty chinese crap from ebay that's horrible to weld with. That's before you get on to getting consumables such as the tungsten's, filler rods, etc. Also everyone benefits from a bench grinder as you will no doubt dunk the tungsten in the work a fair few times.

Aye it will do steels, but don't expect it to give the penetration like it says it will do, ie 6mm. Will likely do 5-5.5mm. Also don't forget that if you want to crank the amps right up you'll also need a 32 amp socket or you'll forever be tripping the elelectrics in the house lol.

Those pumps are shit, all they are is OEM Toyota pumps with the Toyota casting name smoothed out. The internals are exactly the same! There was a thread about it on a Tercel forum I believe. Putting in a shim under the pressure valve does work and was commonly used back in the day when 5E's were first being built. In all honesty because there is no " off the shelf " uprated pump that will produce a greater volume flow, getting one designed and made will be costly and you will be running into dry sump kit territory, not to mention the added bonuses you get from running such kits. What could be worth looking into, I used to do this with Vauxhall engines years back, is extend the oil pick up down further into the bottom of the sump. I'll have to see if I've got any pictures floating around on a old hard drive.

No you need AC to weld alloys mate. You'll be looking at £750 + for a half decent TIG that will weld alloys. You can weld alloys with a MIG but the finish isn't no where near as good, if that helps.

Just to make this a bit more appealing I'll happily sell the turbo without the Tial turbine housng if someone wants to bung their own housing on to suit another manifold. £900

BC top mounts also tend to let go on a regular basis, not to mention their customer service is shocking if you ever have a problem. I personally would stick to a manufacturer like Meister, made in the UK and are on enthusiasts forums always willing to help.

Good and reliable... Can't get any better than a Syvecs for the money. Unless you got £12k to blow on a Pectel? Lol.

No one doing high spec builds these days Maybe I'll have to get back in a starlet ;)

I had a completely standard GT at stock boost and that blew the ringlands. I think it's luck of the draw, but these cars and engines aren't getting any younger,being a bean can and listening out for every knock, bang, smoke and all other shit isn't my idea of fun. I'd love to get back in a starlet, but I would have to have my own spec forged motor ready to go in the day I bought a car home.

Top

None really, even changing the air filter unless it's the same brand/size etc one filter may flow more/less upsetting the AFR.

A clutch type LSD would be best over Helical, not a fan of quaife diffs they don't work too well when the inside wheel goes light. Cusco would be my choice.

Pm'd mate