AdamB

Bump, can bring this to Japfest if anyone's interested.

Depends how hard its been used, how its been run in etc. They will normally last 1 race season before a rebuild is recommended.The OS Giken LSD's are the best I've seen in terms of durability.

Maybe not, but he's only showing you what we already know. He's not telling you where to buy the products, how to make them etc.

Yeah I see 2 green ones on facebook, now this one. Can't believe 9 have been stolen in the last 48 hours. I would be guessing its the same person/persons that are stealing them. Clearly an order has been put in Shame for the owners, I can only imagine now the insurance premium of RS's and ST's going through the roof now...

Up

Check the coil & ignitor, ensure its earthed correctly. Check the TPS.

Bump Only turbo left and special price on at the mo.

Agree with Rob, but if you rebuild calipers because sticking or seizing, it's more than likely the pads are glazed and don't give that bite.

Why did you rebuild the brakes? Were they sticking/seizing?

First time you've used greenstuff pads?

There shouldn't be anymore than 1 bar / 14.5 psi difference between cylinders. You can do a leak down test which is more accurate and will tell you where the engine is losing gas. Regarding pistons, I know you say you don't wanna loose the high compression, but flat tops in a turbo motor are a bad idea as they retard the flame front.

Check the vacuum connection to the servo, make sure it's not split. Also make sure you have nothing else tee'd off that line. When you say brakes feel rubbish, do you mean there's a lot of pedal travel? Brakes don't feel like they have very good bite? Do they fade?

AdamB_1992

Nothing wrong with those temps mate, when you start getting to 60-70 degrees that's when engines don't like it and it becomes increasingly harder to control detonation without using exotic fuels. What I would suggest is getting a temp probe and sticking it after the turbo, but before the intercooler. That will give you a good estimation of how efficient your intercooler is. Can do a simple sum... (T2-T1) *100 will give you intercooler efficiency. Where T2 is the temperature after intercooler, and T1 is before intercooler

4AGE, RB26. 2JZ. How deep your pockets?

Yes they need rebuilding, any clutch type LSD does. Motul or Redline oils are pretty good at keeping them relatively quiet. The more important thing than the oil is how you run them in, that really dictates how noisy they are and how long they last before a rebuild.

First thing would be to check the battery voltage, and the alternator, makes sure its charging the battery.

Make sure the calipers aren't seized or binding.

When you open the throttle, the TPS changes voltage, the MAP sensor picks up the air pressure, the air intake temp sensor picks up the temp, the ecu calculates the air's density. Since you've opened the throttle, more air is coming in, and the ecu goes to what's known as a look up table which is programmed, it sees what the pressure and temp is, picks a value of injector duty to match the air-fuel ratio it's been programmed for and speed increases. That's the general jist of it, it is more complex than that with coolant temp, knock sensor, ignition timing etc etc.

Bearings will wear when there is no oil there. This can happen for a number of reasons, incorrect clearances, lack of oil pressure or simply too much pressure put on them. Think when your running a relatively high performance engine, that piston and rod weight as well as the force exerted above it is squashing the rod into the bearing, and the crank into the mains. Very little oil clearance and it will wear through the bearing to the backplate in no time at all when pushing some hefty boost or rev's.

The bearings don't require running in, they "should" run on a film of oil, there's very little friction there, and what friction there is comes from the viscosity of the oil being sheared.

PM'd

Makes no difference how old the motor is. Piston rings have used the same theory for years, piston rings themselves don't seal against the bore because they have very little spring tension. I'm sure you're aware of this as its far from an elastic band, stretch it too far and it snaps. It's the gas that gets behind the ring that seals it. If you don't load the engine very little gas gets behind the ring to force it out against the wall and the rest of it goes flying past the ring into the crankcase. Besides, no one says you have to stick to the manufacturers honing tolerences and

Forget the stock timing marks, as said above use a DTI gauge. Plus the cams should have come with a spec sheet so they can be dialed in, ie intake valve opens @ x degrees etc. If a set of cams don't come with this then they are shite and good for the bin

NS2-R's, not on a starlet though