AdamB

Depends what you mean by big though? 5-10k in a starlet is considered a lot of money ( yes I know some people have spent more), but when you fish across to other cars like GT86, Skylines, GTR's, Supra's, 350Z etc that 10k doesn't get you much. Talking like £30k, £50k, £80k, £120k is a lot of money in other scenes. Again it comes down to how cheap the cars are, the parts are and the upgrades. Size are those slicks Marc?

You don't need to bed in anything other than rings. If installing new rods/mains bearings just run your normal full synthetic oil and change at 1000 miles to ensure there is no swarf that may have come off the bearing as it gets seated around the journal. There is no need to pay particular attention to loading the engine, just drive it normally. For bedding in rings follow my post #4 here http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/69965-running-in-fresh-4efte/?hl=mineral#entry991069

Another thing that contributes is the fact that the cars are cheap to buy, and people swindle around the insurance. When kids get hold of them they don't have the money to pay £1200 for a Bride seat, or £1500 for a set of Rays wheels. so they end up buying all the chinese rubbish. Unfortunately this is the same across most the JDM scene, particularly Honda's where there is so much fake shit it only leaves you to warrant buying parts from traders and not private sales.

It really depends what you use the car for. Track work clutch type diffs are the best. Road use then helical. Clutch type diffs require rebuilding, they also require greater maintenance like oil changes every 5k miles, plus it has to be special LSD friction modifier oil. The helical diffs are maintenance free, use no special oils, change it at normal service schedules. Helical diff's don't work as well as clutch type because when the inside wheel becomes light, it doesn't know where to send the power and basically acts like an open diff. Obviously this is really only going to hap

The pads will be that for a Fiat Coupe then Just search for Fiat coupe pads through like Ferodo, Carbone Lorraine, Mintex etc catalogues.

This is just it, I feel sorry for the passengers that do not know fake stuff, god forbid they end up in an accident because I've seen some of the stitching on those fake Takata's any its dire to say the least.

If it's just bling/ accessories then I'm not really too bothered providing they look somehwat like the real part. However what I don't get is people that buy fake suspension components, fake harnesses, fake seats etc. Things that hold your car together, things that hold you in that car. Some people clearly don't care about their safety or anyone else who may be travelling in the vehicle at the same time. I know I certainly wouldn't want to be sat in a fake bride with fake takata harnesses never knowing what might happen in the event of an accident, and I certainly wouldn't want to put tha

The only time a harness should be used is with a cage and a fixed back bucket seat. It is possible to run a harness through a harness bar and then down to the rear seatbelt mounting points, this isn't the best way but it tries to keep the angle correct, 15 degrees off the top of my head. This will still require a fixed back bucket seat. If you want to be picky then this still isn't ideal as anytime a harness is used, realisticly a HANS device and associated helmet should be used as well because a harness keeps your body in place but not your neck, and again upon impact this can cause d

What size tyres are you using? Wider tyres tend to tramline more,

Not really worth it from what I heard. Seems okay for like few hundred miles then engine just returns back to normal with carbon build up etc. Unfortunately it's just one of those things that can't really be helped.

Don't forget the bores will need a hone otherwise the rings will never seal against the bore properly. Them pistons look ok, as above I would get them cleaned up and check all other area's of the pistons, make sure their in tolerence and away you go.

Finish off collecting some suspension bits to get the car to handle how I want. Do a few trackdays and work lol. Oh and pick up some bargains hopefully ;)

Can't believe these still here Phil. Just to add the valve guides will fit a 4E head, both the 4E and 4AGE use a 6mm stem and the clearance is the same between both engines. I've cross referenced between the 4AGE engine manual and the 4E manual. I've got a full set of 16 of the Yaris solid lifers sat here, I'll do a deal with if someone buys the springs and guides from Phil

Sounds about right Mikey. Depends how efficient the turbo is at pumping and how efficient your intercooler is. The TD04's are at their max efficiency at 1 bar, anything more they start becoming a hair dryer as far as intake temps are concerned from the compressor maps I've seen. The blitz coolers are some of the most efficient cores as well, they are up there with the likes of Garrett/Precision cores.

Wiseco do them as flat tops, but flat tops aren't ideal for a turbo motor as they retard the flame front.

There was a problem with them a little while back where the pressure plate ( I think ) would touch the inside of the bell housing. Probably more info over on TGTT about it, but I'm sure Browner had a similar problem so might be worth firing him a pm dude.

It might well change, but not because of the reasons you mentioned. The reason being is that the overlap period had been changed. What you have found with your motor is that opening and closing the intake valve later alters the engines power spread, have you looked at other dyno graphs of those running the same turbo and same boost? Compare the low-mid range as you might find that your low top end power is because it's been sacrficed for the mid range power. Dwelling on it a little longer, an N/A engine may well push air back out the inlet valve, however that would be a case of an engi

Don't believe everything you read online I've got some good engine test data I did here when I was last in the engine test cell with a BMW Mini Turbocharged engine if it would make for some educational reading if you wanna take a look? Obviously the engine is different but the principles are the same.

That's not true mate, look at the cam specs of the E series and you will see that the valve closes at 42 degrees ABDC, so the piston is already coming up the bore. The reason behind this is because the mixture can continue to plough in the cylinder, more air = more fuel required = bigger bang.

I understand where you're coming from buddy, but I have to say this. No matter how anal you want/prepared to be, you're driving a road going car with components such as piston rings, headgaskets etc that are designed for reliability and to last. There is no need to be upset about the way the engine is pulling X, Y and Z figures because I can assure you, even after a rebuild and 2000 miles later you will have 2% leakage because that's the leakage you get during the break in period. The wear rate does slow down after this though, hence why engines can go on for over 250k miles before a serious

Haha always subject of controversy my friend Certainly right, I wouldn't go splashing out a rebuild because of 150psi. Infact I will probably go as far as saying providing the engine has maintained good oil change intervals, the leakage will be most past the valve seats.

It's not strictly true, you could have a motor with 80psi across all four, but does that mean it's a workable and serviceable motor just because all cylinders are equal? The line has to be drawn somewhere and that's why service limits are in place. I'm not saying there is or isn't anything wrong with Mikey's motor, it's his car at the end of the day and knows it better than anyone. Having looked back at your other dyno thread, 180bhp is probably about right for a TD04 @1 bar with only AFR tuning. Very little power is made by tuning with AFR, power is made with ignition advance an

Are you using an FTE motor or an FE mate? For an FE that is definately low. Have you whipped the sump off by any chance? Ever had the headgasket replaced? Reason I ask is there could be a possibility of some forged pistons in there which will lower peak cylinder pressure a bit.

I think the minimum before rebuild is 140psi. A leak down will deffinately show a better indication of engine health. For a road engine off the top of my head I think maximum leakage is around 12%. For a race motor it's 3% I know that for sure.

Can't quite tell on my phone but are those anti-detonation grooves? There's no off the shelf E series piston that come with those. Do look like Wiseco base though.