AdamB

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Redstuff chew through discs so keep an eye on it. Would have opted for Mintex 1144 if on a budget.

Run it in the way the engine builder says to. Reason being is that if there's any warranty you may void it. Secondly they know the tolerence the engine is built to. Three they know what oil should be used. Four they know any machining tolerences. Long and short of it is, do it the way your told if someone else is building it.

I'm sorry but what a crock of shit. How on earth can a throat mimic a valve size? The throat can flow all the air I'm the atmosphere, but that doesn't mean the seat is going to flow that much. Classic case of a salesman trying to do an engineers job.

The front end requires stiff springs purely because of having to carry the weight of the drive train and partially of the driver. If it had soft springs the car will be touching tarmac. The problem is with running a stiff front spring is that it increases understeer, the only way to counteract this is to run a rear spring which is approx twice as stiff as the front to get somewhere near neutral handling. It really does depend on many factors, a chassis will handle better with a softer spring, but it depends on ride height, ground clearance etc.

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If you find the ride bouncy changing the springs isn't going to help, That's a damper issue. Either their leaking or the rebound valving isn't stiff enough.

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Toyota, but measure the clearance first because you may need to buy new valves as well to match the guide.

I'd at least have the guides checked they may well be out of tolerance. Stem seals deffo replace, and the springs are worth replacing but not essential, if your going to raise the rev limit then some stiffer springs are preferable, if not OEM Toyota springs will do fine.

There's certainly room for improvement with the cams, the ideal spec is 238-244 duration with 8.8-9.4mm lift. To be honest, anyone that goes with anything more than 260 degrees (drag motor) is daft. There's pro stock cars and top fuel dragsters running 290 degrees and their pushing 2200- 5500bhp. With more down to earth cars such as the Ford RS200 in rally trim used 256 degrees, Lancia Delta rally trim used 288 inlet and 264 exhaust.

Speaks the truth, not a fan of any EBC products really. Pagid Discs from Euro's with some pads like Rob has said, or if you really want some stopping power Carbone Lorraine or Carbotech pads

I got a Clarke CEW1000, 1000 Nm of torque and will undo anything. The only downside is it's quite bulky so not ideal to get in those hard to reach area's and its corded. I've used DeWalt and Makita ones before, they are a bit more versatile in terms of size, don't get the same punch like the Clarke though but plenty good enough for most jobs.

Will be fine, their non-interference engines. So just time her up whack a new belt on and away you go

Wouldn't use drilled discs at all, they tend to crack between the holes after repeated heat cycles. OEM will be fine all round really depending on what you use the car for, I would rather spend extra on some decent pads.

Slight price changes

It isn't good for the turbo as the bearings aren't supposed to take the load that is forced upon them when the throttle is shut, hence why a dump valve is there to bleed off the pressure. However on small crumby turbo's that are worth as much as a packet of minstrels it's certainly not something I would be worrying about, nor would it happen on a regular occurance. You will find pretty much 100% of the time the oil seals will go before any bearing, and when the turbo gets rebuild, in go a new set of bearings as well.

Correct

It will be fine, if you want to remove the chatter then if your dump valve is adjustable, make it slightly softer.

Want this lot gone, this is cheaper than a td05 kit I've recently seen advertised.

Tim @ TB Developments, say Adam sent you, gave me the best price for my forged pistons and rods by a mile.

190ish

That'll be cool mate, if you're looking for more power in the future I would probably save the money on an external gated manifold and go for a td04 kit.

Looks good buddy, make sure you get some good footage Wish you all the best

To be honest with you, there's so many misconceptions about cams on forums from people's opinions the only people worth talking to about camshafts is that of those who design & manufacture the damn things. In all honesty Toyota got it pretty much bang on with the camshaft's from factory, and someone going to spend £400+ on a set of cams is going to totally ruin it for themselves.