AdamB

Is it forged? Can't quite tell from those pics. Getting the piston and rod out the cylinder and grabbing some more piccies would give a better ideal to whats actually gone on. Crank looks bad but as Mikey has said its hard to tell from a pic.

It's just the duration that's wrong for me, 265 is a drag spec cam. For road going and circuit use 225-245 degrees is ideal with 8.8-9.2mm lift. Of course I would expect more top end power, but you also lose a lot of low down and mid range power because of it, like I say for a road going engine it seems a bit much for me unless you have variable valve timing but that's a whole different ball game and not related to Starlets and the E series in particular. Besides running cams on an E series to me is the wrong way to do it because its not the cams that are the weak link as I've previous

No foam filter is the best, the clue is in the name what an air FILTER is supposed to do. Foam is a pourus material therefore does not filter. Yes it may flow quite well because the foam has large holes in it, but spend less on a K&N and have a filter that filters and flows.

Replied in your other thread mate or drop me a pm Could potentially have had a headgasket leak? Colin may well be right but providing the head has been sealed properly I'm not so sure there would be any gunk/coolant residue around them. A lot of it will depend on your compression ratio on what you do to the motor mate.

I would rather skim the head than deck the block. The problem is with decking the block if you have piston protusion out past the block you really have to start taking into account material elasticity and how much the pistons and rods will grow at high revs. Theoretically yes with wilder cams you can increase the compression ratio but like I said before you won't really notice a performance increase from such a small raise in the CR. Personally I wouldn't use those spec cams as they aren't ideal for a road turbo motor. There's nothing wrong with the OEM spec cams.

Depends what you can live without tbh. They all rip you off but if you can live with basic freeview channels then just cancel the TV package and have line rental and broadband.

Are you on about the dowels in the corners? They are there to located the headgasket and head. They pull out and have nothing to do with any water/oil ways. When the block gets decked they will need to pull them out to run the mill over the surface. Depends on the pistons, headgasket, cams, turbo and boost you plan on running (will determine your compression ratio) whether you get the deck blocked or not. If it needs doing then yeah obviously do it. If it was me I would get the pistons as close to the head as possible, not even room for carbon

26mm

Yes they do, you have to go through PEC though as they have had valves made by supertech for the E series head. Same ones that Abbott is running. Or ask supertech to do a custom set for you.

Had it on there before mate but didn't meet the reserve

As said above the blitz has more likely to have more R&D put into it so will be the better option. Besides foam filters are shit and don't do what their supposed to do. However I'd still opt for a K&N over anything on the market.

Yes the cranks are near on identical so will be fine to use. Some EFE cranks are actually turbo cranks as well I believe. If the crank is marked 4ET that is a turbo crank, all other N/A cranks are just marked 4E.

http://www.ipg-supertech.com/

0bhp... Might help if you tell us what boost your planning on running? If your looking to max the turbo I'll say 400whp.

Supertech, no point going anywhere else as no one knows/releases the specs of their valvetrain gear.

£1900 takes it, sick of it taking up room.

Depends what people are willing to pay, seen some go for £450 and others £100 (if your lucky)

Pull the intake off the compressor housing and the cat/decat off the turbine side and check in there for oil. Does sound like turbo.

That's just a normal dizzy is it not? You can see the rotating shaft go into the cap assuming there's a rotor arm in there. I'm guesssing you mean convert to the OEM distributorless setup where the coil is mounted on the side of the engine? If that's the case then I don't believe it can be done unless you get the ECU with it as it will be mapped for it.

Just go for some Injector Dynamics ID1000, expensive though.

Meister do finance if it helps.

A lot of it is down to the driver imo, if your being reckless with the car and throwing it about of course its going to handle shit, think how you would react if I threw you or leaned on you? Which would you prefer. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

Take the front anti-roll bar off or counter act it by putting an aftermarket rear anti roll bar on. That will help somewhat. Are all the bushes good? Drop links? What tyres you running? Ling long ching chongs just don't cut it.

Sorry, your OP seemed like you was after something for handling rather than dropping the ride height. Something like Meister or BC's probably the best bet although I find BC's can tend to have quite a bumpy ride and not as complient as Meisters.

The spec will be fine no doubt about it, although not sure on the valve springs but that's just my opinion, just paying for jdm tax and would prefer something from a valve train manufacturer like Supertech or Ferea. Reving it to 9k I'm not so sure. I don't think it will continue to make power that high up but its obviously something that needs to be tested to see. Really depends on the engine you want, is it going to be an all out power chaser or something with mid range as well. I think I would do either valves or cams but not both to start off with at least until some testing has been do