AdamB

I wouldn't touch the compressor side as it's a waste of time without a larger comp wheel. As for the turbine side you can port and polish it, but you won't feel no difference, might gain like 40rpm in spool which you're only ever going to see on a dyno. I would pay more attention to the wastegate penny and port that as large as you can.

Better off sticking with what you can buy off the shelf. Otherwise other companies would charge you fuck loads because it will be a custom set, pretty much prototyping.

Bump

When you come off track did you put the handbrake on at all? That will boil also the fluid so when you come off track just leave the car in gear rather than putting the handbrake on.

I don't know how much a 4E weighs in at, but a K20 is around 125kg.

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I started studying to be a mechanic at the age of 14, been round cars all my life. I finished that then went on to study vehicle technology BTEC and aced that, in my last year at college I struggled to decide what I wanted to do. In the end I plucked up the courage and applied for uni to do Motorsport Engineering having decided that I didn't fancy working in a dirty garage (most are lol), feeling like I come quite far to have a skill that would be wasted working in a back street garage and not being able to influence anything of the future. 5 years on and now coming to the end of completin

tops

Agree with Mike, just buy wheels that fit the first time round, I'm not a fan of spacers either.

Those that run aftermarket rads in winter and seeing cold temps, just put some cardboard infront of the rad to stop the air hitting it.

Probably won't see it, although the mrs keeps going on about it! I've heard its supposed to be pretty shit and you don't actually see anything anyway.

Couple of price changes

Sorry didn't explain correctly, yeah was going off Jay's original post regarding the low temp stat. As Colin said take it out and use the OEM one, there is no need for a low temp stat, not even for hardcore race starlets.

Get rid of the thermostat, useless for a road car, most cars infact.

Exhaust valves should be sized 90%-92% of the inlet valve in a forced inducted motor. As stock 29.5mm intake and 26mm exhaust, it is only 88%. This where the E series engine is the eco of Toyota's range where something called internal EGR takes over. Where the exhaust gas is left remaining in the cylinder after combustion when we don't want it there for performance sake. Meaning to get the 90-92% target the exhaust valves would need to be sized at 26.5mm - 27.5mm.

Weld the intake ports smaller.

Yeah thats the one Mikey had them. I can only think of putting some grease on the outside before they are pushed in, and/or maybe on the inner of the joint where the bolt goes through.

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I see these before, another guy from Bournemouth ran them, had a white GT can't think of his name though, Grant will know him bought his doobie stuff from him. Can't say I know of any issues, even though they are pillowball I would probably stick some grease around the outer edge and on the inner just to see if it cures it.

Yeah I would advise the 120 soft unless you have a car that's circa 1250kg + I've done around 3000 miles since putting mine on ( 180 medium ) and 1 wet track day and have scurbbed off 1.5mm from the tread, and they come with 7mm new so I would expect around 15k miles before I need a new set. I can't compare to Yoko's as I've never run them, but comparing these to R888 there isn't a great deal in it, the R888 gives more positive feedback and a tad more grip in the dry, wet performance its horses for courses really, but I found with the NS2-R I struggled to get the sharp turn in response I l

I got no complaints for the price Marc. Yes they aren't great in the wet and did make my car a bit of a handful ( don't have a diff yet ) but they are progressive when they let go. I've yet to get them to break loose on the road in the dry. Not used them on track in the dry yet was raining and greasy on my last track visit. Should go well on your DC2 though mate

ttt

What fuel pump are you using? Could always try the test where you disconnect the feed line into a bucket and measure it out after a minute then you will get your flow rate.

NS2-R's don't look half bad either

You are correct that it is normally placed on the return line back to the tank. However it does not really matter where it is placed, if being before the fuel rail this is called "dead heading" the fuel rail, and generally keeps the fuel colder which has its advantages.