AdamB

Sounds like a very interesting spec mate! What will the spec be on the cams? They the 265 degrees with 8.8mm lift?

I would just get a shock and spring setup, save the extra money and get some anti roll bars

I'm a motorsport engineer, but not all of us are car enthusiasts. Some people do it just because they are interested in the theories behind how things work and look to make things better.

Change the spring to a 1.2 or 1.4 bar spring. Makes no difference whether you can push it or not, the force the air will exert on it will be more than you could ever provide.

That's where the Syvecs comes into its own. You can hook up all your sensors and for example if the fuel pump is failing and your AFR is lean it wil shut cylinders down until it stabilizes rather than just shutting the engine down completely leaving you stuck stranded somewhere. The Haltech also has some pretty good safety features as well, I think you can have upto 4 safety inputs if I remember correctly from the last time I used one. But yeah your on the right lines, no point wasting money on something your never going to make use of. Why do you want those specific features? Just for

I love the Syvecs unit it has some amazing features and the control is second to none. However you do have to argue whether any of it will be needed which is its only shortfall, however only you can your chosen mapper can decide that.

Are you just looking for the little filter element that sits on top of the valve cover? If so you can get these from Halfords for a couple of £££.

What wastegate spring are you using? If running a soft 0.8 bar or so you will need to change to a stiffer one something like 1.4 bar.

Mikey is right no matter which way you look at it, would you class an engine in perfect working order if it had 10 psi across all 4 cylinders? There's a threshold where there is a problem with the engine during a compression test. I'm not saying your mapper/engine builder is wrong Shaun, however it has been stated time and time again that anything below 135psi will require a rebuild or further inspection. I wouldn't expect to see a forged enigne run that low even if the compression ratio has been reduced because it should be a nice tight new engines where the sealing is good, remember that eve

Price wise probably about £130 ish. Problem being is that if people are going 5E and they open up the engine they are more likely to forge rather than stick an OEM item in unless they are doing a budget build.

Is it going to be a N/A or turbo motor? If N/A your going to encounter quite a few problems, mainly cylinder head problems. You can run stiff single valve springs no problem, the problem is if you start going too stiff with single or double valve springs you end up losing power because the friction and mechanical losses are greater. What you want is some Beehive valve springs, I doubt cruise valve springs will be up for it and tbh I would want to get something where I know the exact specs of them. Oil wise you can increase the oil pressure, you should be fine with either ACL or

Depends on a couple of things. 1- Who's going to map it 2 - The functions and controlability you want 3. The cost 4- Your spec The best ECU's are : Pectel Syvecs Motec KMS However you will be looking at £2000 + just for the ECU alone. For a Starlet I would say something like Haltech, Link, DTA for those on a bit of a budget and are easily programmable. The Haltech is very user friendly.

Get an OEM one. It's a harmonic damper pulley and unless you want to get a custom one from ATI then these are the best As Shaun has said though most of them have chips in them somewhere.

What rpm are you thinking? I doubt you'll have any issues, Spuddy ran like 9200rpm on ACL's I believe but they were checked and replaced every few race meetings.

Yeah sorry I get you. The ones I've seen for Honda's are press fitted into the wishbone so the spacer essentially pushes the joint further.

This is an OEM thing where the water ways are blocked to aid faster warm up however not great for those modified engines where the extra cooling is needed. Ideally you need an aftermarket metal headgasket as these open up the water ways, something like Athena, Cruise etc.

Don't the spacer move the joint anyway? I'm not too clued up on them so could be a silly question lol. It's not the anti roll bar, they don't have no bearing on the suspension geometry. It's to do with the wishbones going at funny angles when lowering.

If the rings don't bed in or the bores are glazed then there will be excessive crankcase pressure and the motor will be hugely down on power. But yes there will be a lot of smoke out the breather. Edited lol

When you lower a car you also lower the centre of gravity height, when designing a suspension system there is other points called "instant centre's" and "roll centre". The instant centres are where the upper and lower wishbones essentially cross if you were to continue them (this happens because wishbones are inclined at an angle therefore they will cross if the wishbones were long enough) however we just draw the lines on when designing a suspension/chassis system. The roll centre is the axis point at which the vehicle body rolls about. This should be as close to the CoG height, if bo

You don't need to "kick the shit out of it" to run a motor in! All you need to do is load the engine using high gears and pulling the car up hills/gradients etc. But yes don't be a pussy with it, load it up but you don't need to rag it to the red line, 4500-5500rpm will be fine. I wrote a guide on here a little while ago, do a search for it.

Yes you will need to hone the cylinders or your new piston rings will never seat correctly and you'll have excessive blow by. But the bore will still need to be measured to ensure you get the correct gap because the OEM pistons came in different sizes so they would need to be checked against manufacturer tolerances to ensure you can use the pistons you got. The bearings still need to be measured!

Depends what your gonna use it for? Road/fast road setup then a 5E if you have access to one. Drag again I would use a 5E. Circuit/Time attack would prefer to use 4E.

What exhaust system you running?

Sell your td05 kit then dude haha. Might have a potential buyer for the turbo so will be manifold, decat, screamer and tial wastegate left.

Everything needs to be measured and checked to be within tolerance. I guess its just a bottom end rebuild and your not touching the head? It really depends how good an engine you really want. You'll need to measure: cylinder wall thickness big end journal diameters rod end journal diameters main end oil clearance rod end oil clearance crank run-out crank thrust piston to cylinder wall clearance gudgeon pin clearance piston ring width ring end gap There's plenty more if your doing a full rebuild including the head. You will need to measure the crankshaft journals and decide whet