AdamB

So they don't. In that case try Euro car parts, they tend to stock quite a wide range of tools.

Indeed

Gunson one from Halfords does the job. As long as you look after your tools they'll look after you

You'll just need a fitting welded into the sump mate to accept an AN fitting. I'm sure someone like Dean can knock you one up

Sounds intriguing mate, wish you the best of luck

Oil level is full I guess? Best bet is to get a pressure gauge on it asap before it does any damage.

bump want this gone to pay off uni loan.

Shipping is usually around £700, then you have to pay import duty which is around 20-30% of the value I think it is, plus pay someone to deal with all the paperwork and releasing the vehicle from the docks. Probably looking at at least £1800 on top of the £1000.

And this, its a M9 spline tool you'll need, roughly 100mm long as the head casting gets in the way a bit. Be very careful with it though they round off very easily.

You would be best to get it skimmed mate and check the block with a straight edge for flatness. A head skim depending on where you go is normally around £30-£50.

Who built the engine? Any warranty?

You say you will be using forged pistons, what ones? Like I said flat tops aren't ideal for a turbo motor because they retard the flame front. Using a piston with a dish, even though it decreases the CR slightly will provide better low speed running conditions. If you were going to deck the block and skim the head it will need to be blueprinted and use some play doh or similar moulding device to measure your piston to valve clearance, then you can determine how much you can skim off the surfaces without the valves kissing the pistons. Personally I would just go with Wiseco dished pistons

Owen Developments, their the daddy's when it comes to turbos 😊

High compression without a doubt, but how high you thinking? I think the max you can probably get will be around the 9.5:1 mark, but you would need to use flat top pistons to get that which aren't ideal for a turbo motor.

12's is fine providing the intake air temp is good which I would imagine it will be on a more efficient blower. Still needs mapped though

Its very simple but as Matty said just make sure everything is as clean as possible. Also give yourself plenty of time because if the seals have leaked you may need new pistons as well if they are corroded.

82 doesn't come with a pollen filter mate.

Pm'd you mate.

Yeah I see where your coming from. I guess its not to say that the ACL's won't last as long as OEM ones, I suspect that there's a lot of forged engines out there running the ACL bearing and have covered double their recommended interval and had no problems. Possibly just to cover ACL ass.

tops

Depends what manufacturer it is. There's not really been any problems as such, but some require the block to be notched.

Not anymore their not, they used to be. Very rarely do I see any of those cars you mentioned where I am, and yes they were a good car for their time.

It's not bhp that's the problem it's boost levels and oil clearances. The tighter the clearances the less boost you can run because in theory the rod will be pushed against the bearing which results in the wear. Too loose clearances and you will use excessive amounts of oil and have lower oil pressure. I say it time and time again, when you make an improvement in one area there's a trade off to make somewhere else, nothing can be had for free unfortunately. It's like taking a stock engine from having service intervals at every 10k miles then having the engine forged and still expecting to kee

Agree that EP3's are common as muck, but does that not go to show that its a good car? It's a well rounded car with the k20 which is virtually bulletproof even with a turbo strapped to it making 350bhp on a stock block. Anything that's had time and money thrown at it you will be paranoid over, but my two starlets were standard except exhaust systems and still managed to break the ringlands. I think it may just be a turbo thing. Starlet vs Honda will forever debate on, it depends what you want from the car at the end of the day.

The only reason ACL suggest to inspect/replace the bearings at 25k mile is to ensure the crank remains in good serviceable condition. Remember that it is easier and cheaper to replace bearings than it is a crank! Also ACL do not make a "Race" version bearing for the E series engine, they only do OEM replacement and Duraglide. Nothing wrong with OEM bearings either.