AdamB

If you have a set or can get hold of another set of wheels and put some decent rubber on them (providing its within budget), I would always suggest too. Depending on the track, your driving style, weather etc you would be surprised how quickly you can wear a set of tyres down, and then having to drive back on your road set may leave you stuck with illegal tyres below the tread limits. This may sound a bit excessive, even for a new set of tyres, but all it takes is for the rubber to be pretty warm and then the brakes get locked and ending up with a flat spotted tyre.

If it's a coilover type damper, ensure that the spring seat is against the spring. Quite a few people seem to think this is the correct way to adjust ride height when it's not. If that all checks out good, check the top mount.

Some good tyres and decent brakes is a must for any trackday regardless of how experienced you are. If you are generally quite heavy on the brakes, you'll find the Redstuff with fade, Yellowstuff might be the better option, but that said I think all EBC gear is shite. Ferodo DS2500 if you want a fast road/ trackday pad, or if you want some serious stopping power then some carbon pads like Carbotech etc. They are more expensive though. First time out, go and enjoy yourself, then you'll soon figure what you would like to change to the car to make it more confidence insipiring. A litt

Get in touch with the manufacturer, they should be able to provide you with the stock pre-load settings.

I never knew they were a subsidiary of City & Guilds either. Anyway I'm not gonna clog up this thread because you don't believe it, but if you wanna know more then PM me, I'll be happy to show you 😊

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I agree with that to some extent. Those people seem to believe "I love cars", but what they mean to say is they like modifying, tuning etc etc. But when it comes to it, being a mechanic isn't nothing like that, as Daniel has said, it's diagnosing and fixing which is what those people get brainwashed with if you like. A friend of mine started doing graffiti round the town when he was younger (you know how it is lol). He enjoyed it, went to uni and now travels all over the country doing art work for businesses, private etc. I myself have just finished uni doing a Motorsport degree, a

Do something you enjoy doing, turn your hobby into a job/career.

Whats the engine spec? What boost you running now? What ecu is it mapped on? Whos mapping it? What exhaust size you using? Port & Polishing is a very widely and miss-used term that like I said, 98% of people even get this wrong, let alone getting something like valve seat angles correct. Valve springs don't really offer any performance advantage, other than allowing you to rev the motor higher, but unless power is still being made there's no need to raise the limiter as it just puts more strain on the bottom end, as well as the lubrication system etc.

What do you mean by power? More peak power? Better mid range? I'd leave it as is, 98% of people have no idea what their doing, and the 2% that do spend a lot of money on dyno time and go through various different heads to find one that works. My opinion of course. If you're adamant, get some 240 degree's, 8.8-9.2mm lift cams.

The temepratures Tim was seeing is in the territory of engine melt down. Intake temps above 60 degrees tend to start causing damage. The only thing the 4E has in it's favour is it's such low compression ratio.

Wouldn't go changing the headgasket for no reason, providing it's still sealing no need to change it.

Not recieved nothing buddy.

Take a read here: http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?74284-something-interesting-and-concerning-about-the-stock-intercooler Basically, their shit lol.

Muteki Steel nuts, Tegiwa, FunkyPower do them.

It's aftermarket not OEM, so just use stock mounts and shafts for a non-lsd box.

Should have said in the first post dude. Mark @ Abbey Motorsport is likely to be one of the most experienced users with a Power FC, however I can't say he's done too many starlets lol. I'm sure Ricky @ race-Tech will sort you out no bother.

Everyone has their pro's and con's, you need to speak to them individually to find out what they can "offer" you as it were. How deep are your pockets? Do you know what ecu you want? Do you know what features you want? The best mappers aren't the ones who get you massive numbers if that's what you're thinking, I'm sure there's a few dyno operators around that could net you whatever horsepower you wanted, but it's just a number My opinion, get a Syvecs and see Romain, Ryan or Alan Jeffery a visit, along with a a cheque for £2500ish.

Wouldn't worry too much about the specifics of it for a road motor, or ones in which use sub £1000'ish turbo's. Just go with one that you like the sound of. When you start using BOV's to control boost or run large amounts of boost on turbo's worth more than the car, then I'd worry about it

The Jamaican's were netting 300whp on 5E's many moons ago. http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?52987-300whp-Jamaica-style&highlight=300whp Have a read of that, a lot to learn in that thread. Don't ever expect any tuner over this side of the pond to be touching anywhere near what they are getting though. I think the max over here I've seen was 260bhp'ish on a stock motor, which didn't last very long at all!

^

Good watch Mike, shame about all the traffic.

Thread title should be changed to " What can a 400bhp Glanza beat in a straight line" I hedge my bets and say that a well setup 240-250bhp chassis could lap faster than a 400bhp starlet on quite a few tracks in the UK. (Capable driver of course)

I think the light comes on at 7psi, but by the time the light does come on, damage is already done. As above 1 bar is a good min figure for idle.

Buy me