AdamB

Get some Wiseco pistons & Scat rods, 0.6mm headgasket, new oil pump, water pump, engine gasket kit and build it back up Leave the head it don't need touched.

You would likely be looking at around 6-8k for the motor for that kind of power.

The gasket bore should be 0.5mm larger than the cylinder bore. You would be pushing the boundaries using OEM gasket 1.4 bar, but that depends how well the head is clamped down.

When it pulled 175psi, was that with OEM cams? Wild cams tend to pull the dynamic compression down somewhat.

What are your oil temperatures like? Depending on the temps the 40 grade might be too thin at those higher temps.

Cusco, won't make any noise if you bed it in properly. If you plan on tracking the car helical diffs are rubbish, unless it's a Wavetrac diff but I don't think they do them for Starlets.

Which is illegal... (This could turn sour pretty quick if that's the case)

What was the ban for? You would be very hard pushed to be able to insure a Glanza (at a reasonable cost) with 300+bhp.

No, read post #20 from Stu, it explains why. http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/95682-dizzy-relocation/

Yeah it will, but the more stress you run the engine at, the better control of the engine you're also going to need. If you can afford to switch, then do it, but if not then the blue will be fine.

Remember the turbo can only be as good as the air pump before it Don't forget also this is on a .63 rear housing, unfortunately Tial don't do anything smaller and this size housing will flow enough for 550bhp ish. Some wise choice of parts, good ecu and good map will probably knock 200-300rpm off that I reckon.

Jame's has my old turbo Phil, 2868 billet

Throttle position sensor possibly. First check would be to make sure it's calibrated correctly.

Buy a VW

Will be a .63 / .64

Looks good mate, is it a 2860RS?

That's alright mate, I know what it can be like haha. Oh really Those mobile dyno's do make me chuckle.

Bit shit about JF2 mate, but at least you got it sorted (bodged) in the end What power did you make on that mobile dyno ? haha.

If you have it securely mounted and a means of cranking it over (not by hand) then yes.

Depends on the LCA...

The trigger is apart of the oil pump I believe on some of the 5E's. Can still be bought from Toyota.

I'll be around on Sunday mate, I'll keep an eye out on track for ya.

They are re-useable

Any good quality Dot 4 fluid will suit your needs. SL6 specs don't seem too bad, not a million miles away from Type 200. Type 200 : Dry boiling point - 280 degrees C Wet boiling point - 198 degrees C SL6 : Dry boiling point - 265 degrees C Wet boiling point - 175 degrees C SL6 will require changing more often, but in fairness if the brakes get abused I'd probably say change the fluid every year anyway.

You'll have to change the ECU to run coil packs.