AdamB

Have you got the car now? Can you get a video? Might help a bit more regarding the type of sound.

Issue's stem from people that aren't familier with certain cars, unlike specialist they don't have parts just laying around that they can swap out to see if it cures a problem. Starlet's are old, not many people will know even what they are, let alone know any common faults, or even where to start fault finding especially when most people use some electronic diagnostic equipment that tells them everything if their used to OBD fault codes and CANBUS systems. People like that I like to just class as "fitters".

Manual states 4.3 psi after I had a check mate, but doesn't state what rpm, either way anything less than a bar/ 14.5 psi is terrible in my eyes. I think it's 7psi when the oil light starts to come on, which is pretty useless, especially if you have a bit of a leak from a crank seal say, that 7psi could go down to nothing in no time at all.

That's bad news mate, 4.3 psi is the absolute minimum at idle which is like what 850rpm? You'd be very lucky to get away without any damage And people say these engines are reliable huh

Realistically the off the shelf ones are still too small, need to be at least 2mm oversize, but I'm unsure and doubtful a stock head would be able to accept that much without some serious work.

Try calibrating it first, I think there's a how-to guide on here somewhere.

Bolts aren't an issue, its not like you'll be revving the motor to the moon because the volumetric efficiency of the engine drops right off. Besides, the smaller the bolts the better, less mass to rotate.

Leave cams stock.

Make sure the TPS is calibrated properly and giving the correct readings, for closed and WOT throttle positions.

Aeromotive, FuelLab, Sytec or Sard

When you say the throttle is harsh when you come onto the overrun, do you mean its jerky?

75w 90, any good brand like Redline, Motul, Fuchs will do. Or just pop into Toyota and get whatever they use.

Yeah that'll be cold, take em down to 32. If you're not too worried about saving fuel I'd even drop them down closer to 28.

Rear pressures should always be lower on a FWD, especially on something where weight balance is further forward. Is that hot pressures Colin?

Good info mate! It's also worth noting that each brand of tyre/ model will operate differently. What works for one tyre may not work for another. Some manufacturers actually state a recommended operating pressure, or if you're using a performance tyre try get in contact with those that may use the tyre for racing as they would have spent more time and effort dialing in the tyres performance. Can save you a lot of time if you're only a trackay do'er.

Shoulda got one of these mateee http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hybrid-CT9-turbo-for-Toyota-starlet-EP82-EP91-stock-turbo-upgrade-/331606675423?hash=item4d354c4fdf:g:AscAAOSwQItUJ6zl

If you get real stuck, you can cut the lock ring to the thread, and just get new lock rings, you won't need to get a whole new damper unit.

Try a different boost controller. Some of those SBC units are known for solenoid failures, and hence won't produce the desired boost pressure, that may be why the car is running rich because it's not getting the air its expecting.

They bolt on to the Damper unit studs, the same ones which hold the damper to the chassis

Unless you go 5E, big turbo's on 4E's just don't work that great on track, and because of the gear ratio's you'll find yourself in awkward situations

I'll sit on the fence with this, but when I had my Starlet's, I had nothing but problems with the engines, one engine had an oil pressure problem, the other blew the ringlands (stock engine, stock boost). Maybe I was just unlucky, but it's experiences that gives people the opportunity to make their own mind up. As much as I love Starlets, I'm not a fanboy whos's going to sit here and say their better than Vauxhalls, Honda's blah blah, but I do completely understand why people adore them. The 4E engine is at least 16 years old, if you want a mk1 you could be talking as old as 26 years!

The headache, and mega cost it is to get such power really isn't worth it to waste it all away through the front wheels. I know you said about possibly going 4wd in the future, but I would stay FWD, 2 reasons. Drivetrain parts are extremely hard to come by if you manage to break something and the last thing you want is to be out for long periods of time because you can't get the parts. And secondly, a FWD can be faster than 4WD providing its setup properly. I don't know what stage you're at with the car, but I would get the chassis sorted, make sure its rigid, re-bush everything, solid en

You won't be going anywhere on track (other than backwards) with 450bhp. Chassis > power, anyday. Not to mention 450bhp from a Starlet will likely yield unreliable performance being thrashed around a track. Stick to 220-280bhp, get the chassis sorted and then go and do a shakedown to see how competitve you are stacked up against the rest.

Standard gasket is 1mm compressed I think. You'll get a bit more lag with thicker gasket, but if you plan on increasing boost on OEM motor it'll make it that little bit more reliable.

I wouldn't mind going on track, only thing that puts me off is public show days like this you get all the circuit hero's out in force, and the chances of them or anyone having trackday insurance? Nil most likely.