AdamB

Power difference is 0, what you gain at the top end you lose in low-mid range.

Haha same boat as me pal ! Good luck

What you looking at getting pal? Shame after all the work you've put into her, but love goes on

By the sounds of that you buying them just for noise? Maybe I read what wrong lol.

Set of Cruise 256's on ebay at the mo. Depends on the build though.

Another car + trailer

Whos building the engine? What's your reason for wanting 8.5:1? Not saying that it's bad, but pistons alone don't give you the CR.

What's it for? Steel and Alloys have different expansion rates, so if its for a part that gets hot thats something to consider.

Which Bosch sensor? LSU 4.2? 4.9? If you don't mind me asking how much did you pay? I've got 10 Bosch LSU ADV sensors sat here that we use on development cars, can even go pre-turbo position with their temp rating

What sensor is it mate? You should be fine depending on the sensor, just make sure you get it at the correct angle so that condensation doesn't build up on the sensing element as their ceramic. Condensation being heated up and cooled down will fracture after a short while.

Rails the same afaik, injectors might be little bit smaller.

Get hubcentric mate.

I don't think the N/A would have enough compression to work turbo cams.

Not entirely true. The strength comes from losing the syncromesh and going with a dog engagement, this frees up space and allows the gear to be wider, thus being able to transfer more torque due to a wider surface area. Regardless of the service etc, there isn't going to be many people that buy them anyway when they cost twice the price of the car. Their aimed at those using their cars for competition use, not road use. It's the same thing when people buy track tyres to only use their car on the road... pointless.

Max power on a K26 is probably around 320-335bhp depending how good the engine is.

Just keep the ones that come out the head mate. Toyota will cost you more than aftermarket ones.

It's always worthy of replacing springs as they sag and lose tension over time. But unless you're going to raise the rev limiter or put in different cams, I wouldn't worry and just use what came out.

Second hand HSD's maybe?

Whats your budget? That will help narrow it down.

Go for a twin rail setup

Soz that's coolant temp read it wrong

If it's a road car = stock cams If it's a race car = depends on setup and what it's actually going to be used for

Don't bother.

Not worth it really, will likely just make it even worse. Stock heads flow rather well, all you'll be doing is shifting the powerband upwards of where the cams don't make any power and will have poor gas velocity at low valve lifts losing mid range punch as well.

What is the exact problems you're having with the current headgasket? You can swap the gasket no problem and lower the boost, but I wouldn't be hooning everywhere because it wil change the cylinder pressures and may cause knock without having it checked / remapped to suit.