AdamB

Never known of fake ARP's, just use your brain and don't buy from China. Buy from a reputable source. Tool is different, OEM headbolts use a M9 spline, ARP's are hex usually. You can reuse bolts, but they should be measured for stretch, for the sake of it it's best to replace them.

Cylinder head is the main concern, the valve seats. Risk at burning out valve seats unless their changed to something like Beryllium. Carbon build up around the seat creates hot spots which are at risk of putting the seat at a localized extreme high temperature.

Clock the ring gaps 90 degrees apart. Follow that spec for ring gap Unsure on piston-cylinder clearance, this depends on what it's going to be used for, can run tighter if it's just a street motor, but something that's constantly at high rpm will require larger.

In here mate http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/58187-how-to-build-a-forged-5efte-engine-step-by-step-guide/ Knew I had seen the specs somewhere

I'd be careful changing final drives, you would probably be better off with gears because you might get to the point where 2nd is not enough and 3rd is too much lag for example. They work better on N/A's because they tend to rev higher and don't have a whole bunch of torque.

I would expect a larger clearance on the first ring because it's closer to the piston crown, ie maximum heat and therefore would close up more under higher pressure and temperature. No harm in running the same clearance on both rings.

Speak to the tuner as to what they would recommend, they may not be comfortable pushing injector duty cycles.

That depends how much you earn and how much disposable income you have. To some people a Starlet is expensive, others it's pocket change. Especially when you consider the cost of parts, the cost of labour etc from vehicle to vehicle you can't even compare the two.

One of the reasons why I've considered not to get an Evo, because it will just end up a money pit, coilovers, roll bars, forged motor, big turbo kit and your £15-£20k deep.

Induction kit, exhaust, fuel pump and 3 port boost solenoid with remap will make 400bhp & 400ft/lbs. To get anymore you ideally need to change the turbo.

6 speed will be fine, with those mods you'd be up at 400/400 with a map and 3 port boost solenoid.

I've seen of the 5 speed boxes take 700-800bhp. As with anything, it depends how you treat it. Treat a 6 speed nicely it will probably handle 500bhp.

The Gen 2 GTX turbio's have not long been released, probably find there won't be many, if anyone running one yet. The .72 housing is a little large for a small motor.

I believe the oil light comes on at about 7 psi of oil pressure. Which is well quite frankly I wouldn't even trust the engine to run at a high idle with that oil pressure, let alone driving conditions. Fill it up with oil and see how you get on, the motors are rather robust. For peace of mind it's probably worth replacing the pressure switch for a new one, their only a couple of quid.

Do a sniff test is the best bet to see if it's leaking CO into the cooling system.

If anyone's done it, it'll be Spuddy or the guys at Zisco I would have thought, but these are all drag motors. It wouldn't be too difficult to fab something up if you know a good fabricator as you can use the air con location for the pump. A sump pan would be rather simple also as it would just be bent at right angles on all 4 sides with a few fittings. If you're worried about oil starvation on track, a cheaper alternative is using an oil accumulator, this will dump a load of oil into the engine during hard cornering to stop it from starving.

Yeah they are fairly shrouded, no harm in removing material, just take it easy to deshroud it. Deshrouding the intake has no benefit though so leave that as is. I've got the specs for Ivan Tighe if you want me to dig them out, drop me your email address and I'll forward them over and tell you what I recommend.

Haha nah mate, don't hold anything against anyone, all here to help each other Stay away from regrinds personally, trouble with these is that they alter the base circle, LCA, ramp rates etc and their usually a pig to time correctly, will be even more of a bi*ch with the way the E series use meshed gears. Ivan Tighe are the best option, I've got their spec sheet somewhere for all the "off the shelf" specs they offer, but yes they can also make you your own spec. If the car is still going to be used on the road with a few trackdays throughout the year, don't go much over stock duration, j

Stock cams aren't just good for "all round power", their actually quite lairy for a small displacement, low compression turbo motor. If I was to recommend cams, it would be to stick with the same duration as stock but just increase the lift and maybe alter the LCA/LSA slightly. You may well gain some power on your setup, but you will also lose power in the mid range, gain 20-30bhp up top, lose that and torque in the mid range you'll think the car is actually slower. Cams should be spec'd based on what the car is used for, if it's a daily driver or weekend toy then stock cams suffice ra

I would recommend to bleed all 4 corners You can just gravity bleed them also.

Try SKF, used a lot across a number of sectors including automotive, motorsport, pharmaceuticals etc.

Depends on the material of the coilover and the treatment they get. Some like Tein/BC etc I've seen have had a fair bit of corrosion. Others like KW and Bilstein come zinc plated and seem up to much more road abuse.

We'll still be driving cars in 10 years time ;) Yes they'll be different with the features and with more electric vehicles coming to the market, but the ICE will still be around for a little while yet, at least 15 years I expect. I'm still designing engines that are coming out in 5 years time