AdamB

Always get reputable branded gear mate, saves you in the long run. Who built the motor do you know? I guess you got it 2nd hand.

What grade of oil is in the car? Try a different gauge and see what happens.

650cc would likely do the job, get an adjustable fuel pressure reg as well if you haven't already.

Bilstein, KW, Ohlins. They're the best, but depends on budget.

The fake Emanages used to lose the maps

Toyota Yaris D4D is my daily Honda Civic Type R I've used for track for the last 2 years Just bought a Renault Megane R26R

The stickier the tyre the more camber you'll need.

M9 spline

They need checking / replacing every 25k. They're a softer material, don't forget Toyota would have designed the engine to last 150k miles.

Unfortunately these things happen, just a blessing that no one was inside when it happened. Rather lose a car than a life.

Hence why I said you need the spec sheet so you can get the correct base pressure. Otherwise they could wear out the cam lobes then you end up with no surface area to push the valve down, then end up with a missfire.

You'll get a far better burn with the slightly dished pistons than you will with flat tops. You'll be able to run more ignition advance which will bring the lag down and outweigh the increase in CR. If you want to know more speak to Harry from Oz, he ran some Ross flat tops I believe it was and managed less than 20 degrees igntion advance! For a motor even with 9:1 CR that's is terrible! Also take into account, it's not just the pistons which affects the CR, headgasket, cylinder head volume etc etc also have an influence.

Change the pads their shit. EBC aren't good enough for a push bike. If anyone says any different, they've not tried decent pads. Something like PFC, Carbotech, Carbone Lorraine, Ferodo UNO, Ferodo DS1.11, Pagid RS to name a few.

What's the reason for wanting high compression? You can only go as high as the fuel you use will allow anyway. As Gorgan said, flat tops is a no no in turbo motors because they retard the flame front. The Wiseco -10cc dished pistons are the best off the shelf design you can get for a 4E/5E without spec'ing your own with someone likes CP or JE. Then you're talking a fair chunk more cash.

Don't buy anything that doesn't have a spec sheet, or it could fuck the motor.

You got it mate

Yeah mate, the Spec R you can have 4 different settings, not sure about the Spec S. Remember you can't go lower than actuator / wastegate pressure though.

Yeah they are expensive, but also complex to setup unless you know what you're doing. £200 sounds about right, not been in touch with the game recently but think a couple of years ago they were around £260 (Spec R).

Talking at todays rates, EMU's can be picked up rather cheap, £400 or so with harness? I agree, they do work well for the majority of people, and that's the reason why they have a place in the market as I said. The ME221 is not proven from what I've seen so far (quick lurk). Again don't forget, it may not just be buying the unit, as with all standalones you have to factor in any sensor changes, TPS, MAP are just two and they can set you back circa £100 alone. Then if you want to change ignition setup etc etc. The Apexi is expensive yes, but as I've said, it's rare and has JDM factor ab

I had the Spec R a few years ago, the solenoid was fucked and was as expensive to replace as getting a whole new controller. I'd buy new rather than second hand on that basis, but that's just my experience. They're good and hold boost well, and certainly cheaper than the likes of Apexi AVCR. Another good options is the HKS EVC.

It's not always down to "which is better" or "what will give me more power" etc. 99% of the time it's down to the persons budget, and if we're talking Starlets, the average person doesn't want to spend the best part of £3000 on a Motec ECU. Along the same lines, for people that use their cars on the road, may not require the majority of features that a standalone ECU provides. Will a standalone system provide a better calibration than that of a piggyback? Yes, it certainly will because it has better resolution and isn't "fooling" any signals etc.

Been saying it for years, cams aren't needed in these motors. Standard cams are just fine as you say. Too long duration, excessive overlap, lobe separation angle probably all wrong. Turbo motors are extremely fussy when it comes to cams, the stock cams are fine. If the car is going to be used soley for racing purposes then spec something different where you spend most of the time above 4500rpm, for a road car, you simply don't and therefore lose low-mid range torque. Search my name you'll find a lot of info on valvetrain, the cams are the least of the worries with the 4E

Ditch the cams