AdamB

5E has wider journals. But as you're well aware a lot of it depends on the map. What about cylinder wall thickness? What about main bearing alignment to the cylinders? What about pressure testing the block and head? Off the top of my head I believe Spuddy was checking / replacing bearings every 1000 miles.

Helix are a very good brand.

4E will need billet mains and or girdle. ARP headbolts start to yield around 1.7 bar, 400bhp ish. After that studs will do. I'm sure Phil will be able to chime in here, but I thought I remembered hearing Spuddy say he/ ECC used to pull the sump after very short periods (can't remember off the top of my head) and check the bearing shells. Keeping the motor reliable relies on meticulous maintenance, the way you're making it sound is that you want it to be able to do 10k mileage and not have to do nothing other than change the oil... Excuse me if I've got the wrong end of the stick he

Well done, you've followed what the American's believe in I would say look something up called "jacking threads", but you won't find any information about it on the interwebs. Besides if you're that worried about clamping the head down, you wouldn't need the use of a headgasket either You're asking here because this forum is for a specific platform, yet it doesn't matter what the application is... an engine is an engine, the principles remains the same. Considering there is probably only about 3 people or so who knows what it takes to build a motor to be capable of such performance, an

That's on a Supra... Not a Starlet Having a thread "stick out more horizontally" is just a function of the major diameter of a threaded joint. I don't want to sound like a killjoy here, but why are you asking the interwebs instead of talking to those with the experience of building such engines or engine designers? It sounds like it's planned not to be your average build where everyone can chime in and provide an answer to.

Zisco do billet mains for a 4E, they are made by a company called The Real Tuners / Rogers Garage. 5E engines don't need no modifications as the journals are wider. You won't need 11mm or 12mm studs. Going bigger isn't always better, try looking at the way the threads are cut

I'm at Mallory Park April 30th. Bit of a long way off, not ideal but other weekend days are airfield stuff.

It's not about making power, it's about making the car driveable and well mannered.

Try Carbotech then mate. I'm sure you can send backing plates and they will line them with their friction material.

Carbone Lorraine if you can get them for that caliper. Nothing even comes close to their performance.

:D :D Best comment of the year

Haha, nah I mean if you just do short journeys then it'll need serviced more regular, likewise if it gets abuse on track for example. Providing it's not a forged motor or something then every 10k is fine, just wasting money otherwise.

It just makes things so much easier, after buying a product like this, you shouldn't then have to go and outsource testing to ensure their installed correctly! Trouble is without knowing the base pressure, you then potentially cause issues with things such as coil bind, wear, geometry etc. The valve open and closed pressures are a function of the base pressure and installed height. It's a tricky situation that's for sure! In cases like this I usually say. Either A: Let someone do headwork for you, that way it falls back on them OR B: Get different components which you can be sure of.

Correct Calum, it's not just the wear they exert, but also the power they sap. A stiffer spring requires a greater acceleration from the camshaft and this increases friction within the engine and saps a bit of power. Like most things, run the least amount of anything you can get away with It's never a bad idea to replace valve springs, even the youngest ones are going to be 17 years old? Springs will sag, lose tension etc over time. Like I said previously Dean, personally I wouldn't run springs without any specs, and these are a guessing game, not even Sam knows and their his prod

The ideal air to fuel ratio for max power is approx 10% richer than Stoichiometric, which equates to 13.2 : 1 ish for hydrocarbon fuels. The more air you get into the engine, the more fuel can be added, and therefore the more power can be made. Simples

Depends on the driving conditions, anywhere between 3000- 12000 miles is typical.

He don't need the info apparently...

I've deffo seen them before but cannot remember for the life of me where! First thought was Cruise, but thinking back I don't think it is.

Their Cruise springs. From my point of view, any spring is useless unless you know the specifications for it, ie installed height, base pressure etc.

http://tighecams.com.au/ Email them, ask them to email you the 4EFTE camshaft selection sheet. If something on there doesn't take your fancy ( I'd be surprised if there isn't ! ), then ask for a custom ground set.

Ivan Tighe

Depends how quick he wants rid. 450 Euro will sell easily, I myself wouldn't be paying £400 for a clutch kit that's worn, then be lumbered with getting a replacement kit from Japan. No doubt someone will pay though.

Depends how worn it is.

Their fine for road use, but on par with Ferodo DS2500 really.

6 bar or there abouts when cold. At least 1 bar at idle when hot.