AdamB

Depends what you want out of the car and going to use it for.

How long you had it? I'd sell up and move on. Put the money towards something newer.

They do a helical and plated diff. The helical's are rare as rocking horse piss.

Google the "4 stroke engine cycle". You can't just chuck fuel in, if that's the case don't you think you'd have cylinders filled with just fuel?

Wiseco -10cc pistons Pauter rods 0.6mm headgasket (or 1mm) Toyota bearings Toyota oil pump Water pump Engine gasket kit VF35 will pull 1.6 bar, probably make around 315bhp ish. Pretty laggy on a 4E though, much better suited to a 5E.

New engine mate, not worth the hassle like Daniel said, their dirt cheap.

Yeah Starlet heads from calculations and research I've done is where they fall down and like I said, because of this internal EGR occurs. You're correct in some ways with what you're saying, I won't go into too much detail because it gets confusing really quickly when you start talking about properties, atoms, and atomic weights of air etc. This should clear up your question though: Yes Nitrogen Oxides, known as NOx are considered more harmful to the environment than CO2, however, NOx is only produced with something called "combustion dissociation", off the top of my head as it's been a w

Think Phil is still running stock valves, but I'm sure he'll chime in soon. Unfortunately valves are very often overlooked, even though its the first place to start when looking at getting air into and out of the engine...

Try answer as best I can lol. Flow into and out of the engine is a function of many things such as valve lift (lift at the valve not the camshaft lift as this is usually what's referenced by cam manufacturers), lobe centreline angle, rocker ratio, compression ratio etc etc. This is what's usually known as "Volumetric Efficiency" ie how well the engine breathes. The higher lift cam will still cause ill affects due to the nature of it's specification. Turbo motors are usually pretty fussy with camshaft selection, again this comes back to volumetric efficiency, if you looked at th

Ceramic's are great... If you like cleaning your wheels every 20 miles. What the car gets used for will determine what brake pads you use. There's no point getting sintered ceramic pads if they don't start working till 250 degrees, and you drive it on the road, it'll have no brakes at all!

Who built it and what do they recommend?

Turbo motors are fussy about cams, especially if the valve sizing is wrong. I see it time and time again where people think they've maxed stock cams, but in fact its flow through the valve seat that's limited. Turbo motors will idle rough, poor low-mid range performance due to poor flow at low valve lifts. It's not high lift cams that tend to cause much wear, yes they do wear but they wear the nose of the cam. It's more the ramp rate that will kill everything else. Don't believe everything you read in books, I referenced some stuff from the books you mentioned for a university project, bas

Also the reason why we see so many people want to be "the best of the best" and have a great spec, get it built a decade later then break the car...

Build the motor for it to perform, not to make numbers. Or you'll end up spending a heap of cash that won't get you no where

Total budget including fitting and mapping? Before this goes any further, budget at least £2000 for supply, fit and map.

Cobra's I've sat in are dreadful. I'd say Recaro, Corbeau, Sparco. In that order.

You wanna try working with hundreds of them on a daily basis

As Colin said, adjust the ignition timing, advance it 2 degrees, but wouldn't go more than that without knock box or similar.

Will be out of its efficiency area, could probably go 1.6 but no more than that I'd say. That's why the Garrett's are better in that respect, they love big boost pressures.

Don't get too strung up on numbers If that's what you're after you're in the wrong game.

Not seen them before, but I know Zisco can get hold of some. I would be finding out what material they are specifically using. Yes they would also need line boring. One of the big issues relating to the 4E is that the journals aren't wide enough to spread the load placed upon the bearings, and those that run big boost pressures, will likely benefit from larger bearing clearances. I've not heard of Pro-Gram before,but have heard of Real Street Performance, and know they sell good products. I just found this on the Pro-Gram website that might be of some use. http://www.pro-gram.com

Do it yourself? There's a rough guide on here how to build a motor, and there's plenty of knowledgeable people that will be able to help if you get stuck.

If it's already done 1k miles, its too late. Rings would have already seated against the cylinder. Dont worry about running in, just take it and get it mapped asap.

Those F-Types aren't half bad ;)

VF35 if on a budget. GT28 if not