AdamB

Depends what you want out of the car and going to use it for.

How long you had it? I'd sell up and move on. Put the money towards something newer.

They do a helical and plated diff. The helical's are rare as rocking horse piss.

Google the "4 stroke engine cycle". You can't just chuck fuel in, if that's the case don't you think you'd have cylinders filled with just fuel?

Wiseco -10cc pistons Pauter rods 0.6mm headgasket (or 1mm) Toyota bearings Toyota oil pump Water pump Engine gasket kit VF35 will pull 1.6 bar, probably make around 315bhp ish. Pretty laggy on a 4E though, much better suited to a 5E.

New engine mate, not worth the hassle like Daniel said, their dirt cheap.

Yeah Starlet heads from calculations and research I've done is where they fall down and like I said, because of this internal EGR occurs. You're correct in some ways with what you're saying, I won't go into too much detail because it gets confusing really quickly when you start talking about properties, atoms, and atomic weights of air etc. This should clear up your question though: Yes Nitrogen Oxides, known as NOx are considered more harmful to the environment than CO2, however, NOx is only produced with something called "combustion dissociation", off the top of my head as it's been a while, but it happens at something pretty high, I want to say around 1200 degrees C, which a petrol engine combustion temps shouldn't get near. This is a lot more common in diesel engines because of the lean air-fuel ratios they run, and hence greater combustion temperatures, this is why you will find NOx sensors are commonly found on diesel applications rather than gasoline, especially on those engines which conform to the latest emission legislations. I hope that makes sense? I'm not saying that you shouldn't be buying books, or believe what is said in such books, but I can only speak on some of my experience. Their good books for those looking to brush up on knowledge and to gain an insight, I guess from my point of view with the level of detail that I go into, books just don't cover it. Like I said there's nothing wrong with looking at these books, as they do provide some good ideas, and explanations which you could use on your own car, but I would say don't use them to come up with an idea from a clean sheet of paper. With your experience, it gives you a good insight into what parts are good, and what's not worth the money, which is always a handy tool to have at your disposal. Just to add as well, some of the gobble that you read on the internet as well should be taken with a pinch of salt, you never know the person on the other side of the screen, their background, knowledge etc.

Think Phil is still running stock valves, but I'm sure he'll chime in soon. Unfortunately valves are very often overlooked, even though its the first place to start when looking at getting air into and out of the engine...

Try answer as best I can lol. Flow into and out of the engine is a function of many things such as valve lift (lift at the valve not the camshaft lift as this is usually what's referenced by cam manufacturers), lobe centreline angle, rocker ratio, compression ratio etc etc. This is what's usually known as "Volumetric Efficiency" ie how well the engine breathes. The higher lift cam will still cause ill affects due to the nature of it's specification. Turbo motors are usually pretty fussy with camshaft selection, again this comes back to volumetric efficiency, if you looked at the torque curve of a forced induction motor and compared that with an N/A you'll see what I mean. The N/A engine has a much flatter torque curve and can sustain it for longer. Regarding comparing turbo Vs N/A starlets, the reason why is down to something called "dynamic compression", if you ever venture into N/A tuning, this is why it is suggested for wild camshaft profiles that the compression be raised due to the increase in valve overlap. That as well as different mapping will help the engine idle. The main reason why Toyota kept the same camshafts was likely down to cost, why would they want to spend more on adding a different camshaft profile to the same line of engine? The extra cost in tooling, manufacture and then testing doesn't make sense. The reason why the 5E-FHE engine has different camshaft profiles is because it was sold in a different market, and hence the emission legislations would have been different to what we get over here in Europe. Yes turbo cams will work on a N/A car, but again it comes down to the profiles etc, I'm not going to sit here and bullshit, but I can't tell you what a turbo profile will do on a N/A engine because it will vary depending on the profile. I have heard of it happening before, although for the life of me I can't remember which engine. I was under the same impression as you mate, I have had the Graham Bell books for many years, and I used it for referencing as I was designing a piston to go into the Honda K20 BTCC engine. The chap who I done the design for is probably the most successful engine designer I know, who has a span of world championships from F1 engines to powerboat racing. So who am I to argue that? lol. For reference I'm not saying that what is written in the books are complete bullshit, but from what I've been told regarding the design of components, in my case pistons, wasn't very helpful. Like I said, people either write books about their experience, but may not be in "the loop" to know what goes on inside the likes of F1, BTCC, WTCC, Moto GP etc engines. And those that do, aren't likely to share much of their knowledge, why would they because this takes away any competitive edge that they/the team has. In 10-15 years time or so you'll probably find more books will come out that will detail how the Mercedes F1 engine has dominated F1 over the last couple of seasons... The camshafts on the Starlet is a differing thing based upon opinion. I see it as that the camshaft specs are fine, but since the E series engine was designed for economy, as Toyota's 4AGE was the performance varient, the valve sizing is a bit wrong. The engines takes use of something called "internal EGR" , and this is bad for performance, with diluted intake charge. I've been in the tuning game, and I now work for one of the largest manufacturers in the UK so I see/ have seen both sides of the coin regarding why things are done in certain ways. The trouble is, is that manufacturers spend millions (and I mean millions), designing, testing, validating engines, and what people try to do is take away the "streetability" and turn their cars more into race cars. Increasing performance by like 200%, or even more! Some engines (not all) aren't designed for this at all, to put it simply. Just like to say that what I've written is my own opinion, everyone has their own opinion on how they validate things, and do things. Sometimes there's no right or wrong answer, but more so a compromise. I hope that makes sense, should be some terminology there for you to Google and get more of an insight to

Ceramic's are great... If you like cleaning your wheels every 20 miles. What the car gets used for will determine what brake pads you use. There's no point getting sintered ceramic pads if they don't start working till 250 degrees, and you drive it on the road, it'll have no brakes at all!

Who built it and what do they recommend?

Turbo motors are fussy about cams, especially if the valve sizing is wrong. I see it time and time again where people think they've maxed stock cams, but in fact its flow through the valve seat that's limited. Turbo motors will idle rough, poor low-mid range performance due to poor flow at low valve lifts. It's not high lift cams that tend to cause much wear, yes they do wear but they wear the nose of the cam. It's more the ramp rate that will kill everything else. Don't believe everything you read in books, I referenced some stuff from the books you mentioned for a university project, basically got told it was all bollocks. The information you want to know, isn't exactly going to be published for the world to see I agree with Colin, it seems most tuners don't tend to go anywhere near even 8000rpm, be even worse with aftermarket cams with more duration with not having the wider powerband.

Also the reason why we see so many people want to be "the best of the best" and have a great spec, get it built a decade later then break the car...

Build the motor for it to perform, not to make numbers. Or you'll end up spending a heap of cash that won't get you no where

Total budget including fitting and mapping? Before this goes any further, budget at least £2000 for supply, fit and map.

Cobra's I've sat in are dreadful. I'd say Recaro, Corbeau, Sparco. In that order.

You wanna try working with hundreds of them on a daily basis

As Colin said, adjust the ignition timing, advance it 2 degrees, but wouldn't go more than that without knock box or similar.

Will be out of its efficiency area, could probably go 1.6 but no more than that I'd say. That's why the Garrett's are better in that respect, they love big boost pressures.

Don't get too strung up on numbers If that's what you're after you're in the wrong game.

Not seen them before, but I know Zisco can get hold of some. I would be finding out what material they are specifically using. Yes they would also need line boring. One of the big issues relating to the 4E is that the journals aren't wide enough to spread the load placed upon the bearings, and those that run big boost pressures, will likely benefit from larger bearing clearances. I've not heard of Pro-Gram before,but have heard of Real Street Performance, and know they sell good products. I just found this on the Pro-Gram website that might be of some use. http://www.pro-gram.com/tech.html Their website doesn't exactly come across as something professional or has had a lot of time put into it, but that doesn't always mean the companies bad.

Do it yourself? There's a rough guide on here how to build a motor, and there's plenty of knowledgeable people that will be able to help if you get stuck.

If it's already done 1k miles, its too late. Rings would have already seated against the cylinder. Dont worry about running in, just take it and get it mapped asap.

Those F-Types aren't half bad ;)

VF35 if on a budget. GT28 if not