AdamB

Good to see matey. How you feeling now?

Have the cylinders been machined at all or have you just dropped them straight in the bores and measured? Do you have a spec sheet for them at all? Reason I ask is it might state on there the material being used, I'm sure that Wossner tend to use 4032 Alloy which contains more Silicon to enable tighter clearances and less slap, however if 2618 are used they expand much more and might be the reason for the larger clearance until upto operating temperature. 2618 pistons are generally recommended for high load / race use only, realisticly due to the noise, oil consumption etc.

Unless you're an experienced driver, and take to the track regularly you wouldn't notice a great deal of difference between the two. Besides generally once a roll bar is set 95% of people don't tend to adjust them, negating the need for an adjustable bar in the first place. Just grab which ever comes up though, or whatever is cheapest. The stiffer the rear, the more rotation at the rear you get about the cars centre of gravity. Vica versa if you go softer, or stiffer on the front.

All Garrett GT series turbo's are dual ball bearing, at least from GT25 upwards. Have to remember that it's the air pump infront of the turbo that drives it, just because and engine is forged doesn't mean it's going to be suited to every turbo on the market. Nice to see some vids of this thing at last anyway pal!

This, red 98 spec looks mega. The 8k9 is a close second for me, just because their rare to see.

I wouldn't touch any springs that don't come with a spec sheet, ie installed height, max valve lift, base pressure etc. They will do more harm than good if their not correct.

Use a good quality 75w 90, something like Motul, Redline, Millers, Fuchs. I don't think Cusco actually state a specific oil to use, but a good brand will do the trick. Yes you have to bed the plates in, otherwise they get a chamfered edge and this is what causes them to clunk and chatter at low speeds. You bed them in by doing figure of 8's, for 30 mins. You'll also need to change the oil straight after the bedding in to remove any swarf from the box. Don't forget as well to make clutch type LSD's last longer they need regular oil changes.

The MZ is the most likely choice I've ever seen people use tbh. It will be better for your plans as it takes a little more torque to engage the diff. Another option could be a Kaaz diff.

Go for the MZ, the RS uses springs which are tensioned to set the initial torque the LSD will bite at. The MZ uses cones, which provides better response, less friction. It's a bit noiser is a downside.

Toyota, don't use one of these so called "lightweight" ones.

Best thing to do is do a compression test, or be more advanced and do a leak down test. That will give an indication of how healthy it is. In fairness, providing the test results come out okay, I would just leave it alone, it's not broken so don't break it even more lol. The tappy noise you're probably hearing is likely to be the valve clearances need doing, which I'd expect at 150 k miles are well overdue, or the injectors which are quite noisy on these motors.

Have you changed anything since the last time it was tested at 175? Still 155 is not bad, and is around average for a forged motor.

Basically anything that is a service item should be replaced, gaskets, seals, bearings, rings etc. It depends to what extent you want to go and what your budget is. The piston pin towers are one of the most stressed parts of a motor as its the first component to take 70-90 bar of cylinder pressure, the pins just act as a rotational anf fixing point at which the rod can move on, so very little wear happens here. If you run lots of boost or high peak cylinder pressures, the pin tower may flex enough that the tower-pin oil clearance isn't sufficient enough and will bend about the pin and seiz

You would put more strain on the pump, as believe it or not, fluid that has to negotiate bends and elevation changes has the greatest pressure loss. Also there is very little room underneath the OEM TMIC meaning the dirty (hot) air has no where to escape, so wouldn't be as cool as you think.

75w90

Depends how you wanna use it, for safety to lower IAT's and EGT's or to use it for power to gain more ignition advance, a lot also depends ont the meth % content.

Neither ideally. R-Spec are a good company and I doubt they would sell shit, but even if you buy a second hand half decent controller like a Blitz, HKS, or may get lucky and find an AVCR cheap it'll be better.

Save yourself the hassle and just get a new loom, you could spend hours upon hours fiddling and faffing with the wiring. The dash can be had out in about 15-20 mins, and once the motor is out of the car it's easy enough to swap over. If the car is a daily then the 5E is always going to be better, there's no replacement for displacement, the more torque makes it a much better drive. Also if you plan on running loads of boost, again the 5E is better because it has wider journals but that's a different story. Since you've got the 4E, just use that, 5E's are getting rare and expensive for

Speedvision website here: https://speedvisioncps.com/ You could also try getting the parts off US ebay, but again hit & miss if you get stung. If you're on a budget you could always use the MaxSpeeding rods that are listed on ebay, they'll do the job. I sold up a long time ago, you can check my build thread http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/60779-adams-5e-monster-gt/?hl=adamb#entry781684 to see what I was up to

TD04 or TD05 will do that power, will be cheaper than running other turbo's as well like Garrett, Precision etc. LSD would be high up on the list, 280-320bhp is plentiful especially for a road car. Best place for parts, probably Sam @ Speedvision has the best prices, and if you're nice he might even put it down as a gift so you don't pay import fees

Not quite hot enough to warrant the oil being too thin then, would need to be touching like 130 before changing the oil really. Is yours a trap door baffle? Or just plates? You shouldn't really need to run anymore oil, smidge over the max mark is fine. A good trap door baffle should be good for approx 2.5g of lateral force. Not even BTCC cars run dry sump systems mate and their on slicks, Brands isn't a particularly notorious track for oil pressure issues either. I would do what Sam suggest's and check to see how far the pick up lay in the sump, also see if you can swap a gauge sensor

Invest in a torque wrench. Could be a seized caliper.

Leave the head alone, doesn't need touched till 320bhp'ish. You would need to spend a lot of money to get a head that works right for one setup. You would have to measure the crank to see if it needs a regrind/polish, then get bearings suitable to suit. What power are you looking to run? That will determine what size turbo you need, but remember the more power, the more of everything else you also need.

The price people ask for them is ludacris! Not worth it imo, can get some custom billet cams from Ivan Tighe for not much more than £400 or so.

18k for an engine? It's only a little four cylinder, unless it's made of the finest gold from nazareth I agree by the time you add on suspension, brakes, mapping etc then yeah it's going to be about that.