AdamB

9k rpm they had that upto, but it needed it as otherwise it had no powerband what so ever. Think it made less bhp than a completely stock 4E until like 5500rpm.

Different pal.

Forums are no better either. Internet mechanicz FTMFW =@

Brakes International. They have them listed but no price, you might have to contact them to find out more.

That's the one, the CT12, wasn't aware of the Mazda wheels though! Yep you are correct about the turbine work, although I can't recall 100% who done what, I've seen one of Toby's CT9 hybrids first hand, going back, to me the turbine housing looked OEM, but the penny was ported, the turbine wheel was deffinately OEM although I'll stand to be corrected. The Tong's hybrids have been, and probably still are considered to be the best hybrid CT9 there has been, it would be interesting to get pictures of each of the hybrid turbo's from different manufacturers to compare them, like ToyTuning, Speedvision, Tong's, Blitz etc. I'm led to believe the chinese counterpart options are just copies of the Speedvision hybrid, since this seems to be the only available hybrid to buy (other than the Race-Tech one which is relatively new), it would make sense for the chinese to purchase one, and copy it directly but using cheaper, and likely inferior materials. It's hard to pinpoint why some were giving poor results compared to others Been around far too long, and so have you

Sorry I ment on track. Their just there for nostalgia on a road car imo.

From what I've seen or can remember regarding the ct9's, was mainly the compressor wheels being changed, which were changed for larger diameter both exducer and inducer, and hence this then required the housing to be machined out to allow fitment of larger wheels. If I recall correctly, I think it was only ToyTuning that fiddled and played about with the turbine housings, I'm not so sure if Toby done anything with the turbine wheel though. The housings were deffinately ported though ! Again from what I can remember, wern't people taking compressor wheels from the Supra turbo's, was it the CT26? I'm sure there was another as well, again like you say, I don't think the results were that great. But I believe this to be down to more the turbine side which was restricting flow, once you get to 1 bar boost, the turbine seemed to bottleneck and not be able to produce anymore. For sure the GTX series flows more than the regular GT series, but then I would expect it to with having larger exducer/inducer diameters. I can confirm though that turbine wheels and housings on GTX series are exactly the same, all Garrett did was literally change compressor wheels to 11 blade billets.

Can do more harm than good, wouldn't run one unless you're seeing 130 degree oil temps.

Power FC's are expensive because of the people that sell them. They used to be good when they were first released, a plug & play standalone, but these days I think even the EMU has better map resolution, can do launch control (sort of), I'm sure some people have managed to get individual coil packs going on them as well. Add a few more hundred quid to a Power FC and you can have a real good ecu with all the bells & whistles.

I think Sacha's @ WEPR is in the 600's.

The Garrett GT series uses a cast compressor wheel, its only the GTX series which use billet -11 blade design. Obviously there are other companies that offer billet wheels on regular GT series turbo's. I think you'll find most of your answers on a compressor map, noting how many blades a wheel has, the blade angle, tip length etc is in far too much detail. Let the manufacturers design and build them, then just pick one which suits. You have to take into account that the compressor needs to be carefully matched with the turbine, it's the turbine that drives it. Of course there is room for improvement, but in my eyes, the improvements should be made on the turbine side, not the compressor side. Changing the turbine housing is one example which will allow the compressor to flow more air.

About 25 mins. Some moderate pedal pressure braking from 70mph down to 30mph, do that about 12 times, with like 300 meter rest period inbetween. Then do some heavy braking from like 110mph down to 30mph, do that about 4-6 times with 500 meter rest period. Or follow whatever the pad instructions say.

What is it you want to find out about blade styles, number of blades etc? It makes sense that the additional airflow increase comes from making the wheel and consquently housing larger, fundamentals tell us that you can only flow X kg of air through Y sized hole.

The problem is, what most manufacturers do that produce billet wheels is to make them larger, negating any weight difference between cast and billet wheels. This article from Perrin makes for an interesting read, although probably no use to any starlet owners as running GT30 + frame turbo's, I would only assume that the results filter down to the likes of the GT28 frame turbo's as well which seem to be more common these days. http://blog.perrinperformance.com/garrett-gtx-turbo-comparo-part-2/

Ah that explains it better mate, thought you was on about mounting it directly to the bar itself. This is why I explained my experience with the Tegiwa bar, but do you think they done any testing on their product? It's highly doubtful imo.

Get your head out your fucking ass Dan, whenever in my post did I say you "need" to do anything? Maybe you would like to read my post again and note the words "potential" and "should". Being "pedantic as fuck" could save your life one day. There's a reason why insurance companies charge such a premium for those road cars which use roll cages. Have a think about that for a second.

I just tend to sit in the background and laugh at most people these days tbh mate

It seems that some of the big players have been using extended tip designs for years, I know Garrett have been using them on their GTX series, something of which they are prominant in telling customers. However with this in mind Borg Warner, which also own KKK and Switzer, have been using extended tips for years, long before Garrett started using them. I don't know whether there was some kind of Patent regarding the use of extended tips which stopped Garrett using them any earlier. If you want some good testing figures and graphs, head over to Perrin Performance and check out their blog. They have done a lot of testing regarding various different turbo's from comparing Garrett GT and GTX series, to Borg Warner EFR and S* series turbo's. Albeit based on Subaru's but the information is good. I also agree there are a lot of billet wheels out there now for sale, for various different turbochargers and frames, but does just having a billet wheel make a difference? No not really, the blade and aero design is key, the material is not what makes a billet wheel special, and just because a compressor wheel is billet, does it mean it's any good? A lot of people seem to think that a billet wheel makes the turbo something special, that's down to someone's opinion...

Don't use a harness on Type R seats, I assume you like being able to use your legs? God forbid if you ran harnesses with those seats and had an accident you could potentially severly damage vertebrae and possibly your spinal cord. Nothing but a fixed back bucket seat should be used when running harnesses. A harness bar should never be used to mount harnesses onto (unless it's a part of a cage and rigidly mounted), the harness bar is simply there to direct the harnesses to give the appropriate angle. The issue I found when I had one of those universal ones, is that they sit quite far back from the seat, and with only 1 bolt mounting to the top seatbelt buckle on the B pillar, there's the potential for the bar to have an increased moment rotation upon impact. It makes me laugh how many times this debate comes up, across all makes and models of cars, yet people are still stupid enough to risk their life for the sake of a few hundred quid, fake seats, fake harnesses, incorrect installation etc. If you can't afford to do it properly, don't do it!

Fixed back bucket seats, on to a welded in harness bar, or something like a universal harness bar, harnesses crossed over and then mounted to rear seat belt buckles (not ideal though).

No it won't Colin, get the geometry setup

Aeromotive

Is it a road car or a race car?

You'll deffo benefit from a raised limiter with a higher volume inlet mate

Turbine wheels are the same mate, it's only the compressor wheels which are different, their 11 blade billet wheels. Spool the same as GT series turbo's, but just flow an extra 10-15% more air due to the blade aero. There's no problem with the oil pumps, don't those P&P ecu's raise it up to like 8500? Could always shim the relief valve although not ideal. A GT28 deffo needs a raised rev limit to make the most out of them.