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AdamB

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Everything posted by AdamB

  1. Another one I forget to mention is the AEM, they've come up in the world, and a lot of people are starting to use them.
  2. Read http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/96976-harnesses/
  3. I agree, the valve springs aren't getting any younger that's for sure. Like I said previously, it's hard to fathom why these P&P's ecu's raise the limiter if there going to cause adverse affects which could lead to catastrophic engine damage/failure. I doubt it's valve float you're getting mate, valve float occurs when the cam lobe is not in contact with the follower (or any other means of contacting the valve), yes it can happen when engine speed is increased but it comes in the form of a missfire or performance loss where the valve opening and closing periods are messed up. You're m
  4. What tyres you running on that mate? Engine seems to go rather well
  5. You're correct, it does. At least from what I can remember, assuming it hasn't changed?
  6. Pretty much all the so called "starlet tuners" have had something said about them in one way or another lol. I don't tend to get involved as I haven't dealt with any of them really, would just be nice if one of them read this and could explain a logical/ technical reason behind it. I'm doubtful of that Colin as I'm sure the P&P ECU's rasie to 8200-8500rpm? Correct me if I'm wrong, would seem silly for Mines, Jam, Blitz etc to raise limit if reliability like that was compromised.
  7. What kind of noise? Grinding, knocking, banging, tapping?
  8. I'd probably say about the same 8500rpm, although old springs will be hard to judge without testing them. It's not likely very many people go to that sort of rev limit anyway because the volumetric efficiency drops off way before that anyway so no need to rev that high. You'd need an extremely good cylinder head (big valves, wild cams) as well as a large enough turbo to still produce power up that high. Just looked through some plots on the leaderboard, seems most tuners only go to like 7200-7400rpm, even on big turbos like the GT28, I wonder why? Some look like their cut off quite qui
  9. I wouldn't really go more than 8500rpm on a 4E without some billet main caps.
  10. Check the power leadboard and see what other people are using. Can also see dyno plots. http://www.s314kba.co.uk/leaderboard/
  11. Just need a set of brackets fabricated, a disc to suit, fluid lines and away you go.
  12. Whats your budget? You can get some alright'ish chinese gear off ebay for good prices.
  13. Depends on the budget, as with most things, you get what you pay for. What you after, mig, tig, stick? Or everything.
  14. Link, Haltech, DTA, OMEX will do nicely. A power FC will also do the job, but as has already been mentioned, their ancient, so don't expect much in the way of features.
  15. Haltech, Link, DTA, OMEX, Emerald, Motec, Syvecs. If you're feeling really plush how about a Pectel? You need to specify a budget, you can spend upto about £12000 on a management system.
  16. Running more caster is beneficial as it aids in dynamics camber, meaning that you don't have to run as much static and can gain back that tyre footprint you lose, and get back the acceleration and braking efficiency. You might find those hardcore Japs will use some form of caster increasing top mounts rather than some bushes. The spring rates I found that across pretty much all manufacturer's in Japan run higher rates, I don't know if this is because they run their cars with lower ride heights and hence need the stiffer spring rate to stop the car bottoming out, or if they just use it pure
  17. AdamB

    I have an idea

    Won't need to touch the head, you could get 3 angle valve seats cut, and worth upgrading the springs to something a little less tired. If you go for something like a GT28, then a little honing of the ports would do nicely.
  18. It'll be fine, its wise to change the fuel pump as standard ones are getting ancient now.
  19. £133 for the part, + shipping, + import tax etc. I don't even know what supposed to be different about them lol. I'm assuming the rod is longer as some aftermarket clutches require the use of a longer slave rod. According the RHD, I'd be guessing and saying that ST185 will fit, not sure about the ST205.
  20. Just don't be a tight bitch and buy proper gear?
  21. You can still get the Route 6 uprated slaves http://www.rhdjapan.com/route-6-super-clutch-release-slave-cylinder-st185-celica-ep82-ep91-starlet.html
  22. AdamB

    I have an idea

    I'm sure the graph is still up on the power leaderboard. The turbo was a T3/T4 of some kind, actual specs about it not 100% sure were released, but I know that he switched over from the .63 turbine housing to a .82 ( I think ) at around the 480bhp mark. So goes to show that you can get away with small ratio AR's on these motors and still make good power. Although it might well have something to do with the fact he was running on Methanol
  23. As Stu said, they need to be scaled correctly, 9.9/10 it's just easier to purchase the correctly rated sensor recommended by the ECU manufaccturer.
  24. Reason being is that most people buy fake because they can't justify the cost of proper products compared with the vehicle they purchased for a bag of quavers, is probably half the understanding of it. The other half is, well it looks the same as the real one, so that makes me cool. Back in the day, it used to look cool to smoke a cigarette but it still kills you. Even then, people that buy fake or real harnesses, 95% of them still install them incorrectly, as I'm sure Dan will tell you from our rant in the other topic last week or so. It still amazes me how many people, and this
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