AdamB

The OP never stated he raced the car so I assumed it was just a daily or weekend toy. Lets face it you can count on one hand how many people compete with their starlets anyway. There's no way you can get any sort of idea how a tyre performs on the track by driving it on the road, two completely different scenario's. The surface for one is totally different, a long with tyre pressures etc. Never meant to come across shitty mate, just stating that not many people on here compete in starlets. I would say the best thing you can do is go a long to a few wet race meetings and check out the FWD c

No mate I'm installing a lightweight matrix and blower fan so will be keeping the lines open, but yes if you wanted to ditch all heating then just loop the pipes

I'm going to be using an Aeromotive one

A magnet won't go on the outside as Aluminium isn't magnetic it would have to go inside, get it welded if your that bothered

Racing in a race series is a completely different ball game as you would no doubt also change your suspension setup to accommodate the lack of grip, I doubt you could be bothered to do this in a car used on the road every time it rains. If you also race in a series then your governed as to what tires are permitted anyway so you would be far better off reading the regulations than asking on here.

If there has been tests carried out it certainly hasn't been published so you could say we are all none the wiser lol. I'll stick to not seeing a broken GT rod being good enough for me

Lets face it they are shit lol. The suspension design is far from the least worst ever designed, and there's no replacement for displacement I'm afraid. The only thing that goes in their favor is weight.

Unless your DK lol.

They are exactly the same as far as I'm aware. It is a bit of a pain to get to but taking the dash out isn't a hard job at all, can be done in under 20 mins, well I did mine in that time anyway lol.

That rumor has been floating around for years, have you ever seen a broken GT rod? I haven't I know that much.

Most common seems to be the Toad AI606 because its cheap and does the job, I have one for sale if your interested. I had a Clifford before that and it was fucking annoying, was too sensitive and drained the battery pretty quick.

How many points bud? I can count 8 but dunno if there's any roof points.

I find that the magnetic sump plugs are too small of a surface area to collect everything, dropping the sump and cleaning the magnet after a few hundred miles is also a wise idea

John's 4 paw against the lambo is one of my faves lol.

lol what a load of shit. Of course your going to get metal particles its due to friction. Your mate obviously runs his engines in on synthetic oil!

What shouldn't happen? Metal filing build up?

That'll be the piston rings mate bedding in, try sticking a larger magnet in the bottom of the sump, speaker/sub magnet will do the trick

It should be checked on the road after being mapped on a dyno, its just a dyno is a much more controlled state and you can get better accuracy on the load sites.

It's TD's own I believe. That's just the plenum though, I wanna see the runners

Rolling road, that's what their made for their a tuning tool.

Get yourself a stethoscope

£1600 inc VAT mate!

Why are you trying to put down 250-300bhp in a FWD car in the wet anyway? Your fighting a losing battle.

The most common problem with losing bottom end bearings is oil pressure/oil feed related, 9/10 this is the reason. If you haven't got an oil pressure gauge, get one!

I would advise not to use mesh. Makes no difference whether its driven on the road, beach or in the sky. There is still dirt particles in the air and that will soon turn into grinding paste going into your cylinders and increasing bore/ring wear. It's a stupid idea not to run an air filter, they pose very little restriction these days, although piping does play a factor, roughly every 90 degree bend equates to a loss of 3% peak power.