AdamB

Tesco do bottles for 17p i think

Agree with Rob its not about them packing up but on high compression motors or those running big boost 1.7 bar +will be tending to blow out the spark. Have to admit the MDX is nice but its fucking expensive lol, suppose thats the price you pay for the convenience of not having to change the mani setup.

Thats what AlanE runs on his GT am sure it is.

Ah okay was just interested to know thats all. Obviously flow will be choked though if going smaller tnan what its intended for. I thought it might lol, I'll have a check of your build thread for more pics mate, already bought rare jdm part this month

Soak it in vinegar ;)

Fair play mate, you staying TD/VF flange? Have you ordered a new turbo already? Lol

Wheres that from? The garrett supplier I've used before still only list T3 inlet flanges. I might be interested in the cage if its still here come payday buddy

Is it a T25 or T3 flange mate? As the gt30 uses T3, and the gt28 uses a T25.

Bump

How comes you decided to stay with the stock ignition system mate?

Is No1 piston at TDC mate? Forget the stock pulley marks their shit, as long as you can get No1 piston as close to TDC as possible judging with a dial indicator forget what the pulley says bud. Providing No1 is at TDC, then leave the crank pulley as is, its not adjustable. You don't need to time the crank in, its just the cams.

Needs a longer rev limit mate, no doubt you would have made more power, with those cams you could probably rev to atleast 8200rpm although turbo efficiency will be out the window lol.

Elbow grease unless you have the block out and can soak it.

What is 3-4mm out mate? The cam pulley? That will be retarded as the engine rotates clockwise. Have you not got an adjustable pulley? Then you'll be able to tell in terms of degrees of rotation rather than mm.

Same as the others I believe, just a bit rarer.

The gear shifting tends to be quite notchy/clunky but only by feel not by noise. Rev the car in neutral progressively to around 3500rpm, this is where the bottom end tends to knock. If you hear any metal to metal contact or tinging then walk away as it will be a big repair bill.

Where about's you located mate? Could be interested depending on price.

Its the same as OEM bolts, just the torque settings differ.

Yeah probably did, the boy can shift that's for sure!

Personally when blue printing a motor it should always be line bored on both the crank and cam caps, that's what I do anyway. It's not that it twists anything but due to being a higher clamping load they mean it may pull the cap closer to the crank. Check the oil clearances again, that will give you an idea if the cap has moved.

Sounds like a BOV to me Phil lol.

No one knows any stock map numbers so it's not really possible, the only thing you could do would be to take the ecu to somewhere like TD and get them to download a file that's likely to be a close match. Chances are though your going to get charged for a remap, then once the cars running you got to get another map to suit your car, so you end up paying double. Have a look at the emanage and see how its wired up, if its just a harness then just buy a stock ecu off here for a few quid.

I got 45's on my N/A and they do my nut in. They give pretty good response and feel but even on standard suspension setup you feel every nook and cranny on the road, its my daily not my race car so I don't want it to be too stiff.

60 ft/lbs is the mark you want, in 3 stages. I would swap them out, they apply more force to counteract when the big end journal tries to push/pull the cap into an egg shape under load.

Barking up the wrong tree mate lol. Just get a dremel out with a polishing pad and get some compound and shine it up till your hearts content lol. Or get it chrome dipped, or just paint them.