AdamB

It depends if its been spliced in or if it has a plug and play harness, if its been spliced in then its more troublesome mate.

What do you mean best setup? Best setup in terms of what? Fueling? Ignition? Engine components? Need to elaborate a bit more.

A big IF, if you have an AFR gauge, retard both the ignition timing and valve timing along with keeping an eye on the AFR gauge. I would however say its not the best idea by a long shot, however if you are stuck thats the way I would do it, or just run it on a stock ecu 4EFTE ecu with slightly higher fuel pressure.

Probably a tired actuator mate, or a crack in the exhaust mani, or vac leak.

What do you actually do with bitcoins? Sell them for money? Trade for products? Just a gimmick?

Still using the stock actuator? Most probably that that's making boost lazy allowing the wastegate to open early than it should.

Don't matter if your driving on a beach or a road, theres still dirt particles in the air which will soon turn to grinding paste and you don't want that getting in the combustion chamber! Stupid idea imo.

Theres no gains to be had unless you know exactly what your doing, power is made or lost at the cylinder head. For this reason is why modifying cylinder heads is an expense job! I don't see the need to touch the cylinder head until 340bhp anyway.

Slag Looks epic buddy.

I got the same thing with my N/A mate, mines the release bearing, goes away when the pedal is pressed but doesn't cause any problems so far.

Best thing to do next would be to look at upgrading the ecu. Check out the 200bhp guide in the wiki section mate, it should cover everything you need to know

Chances are it will need rebuilt if the compressor has been in contact with the housing.

From what I've seen they make very little difference.

Check this out pal http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ISNWRMB6c4

Their 15's, they look like the Enkei's that come off mx5's. Probably been lowered like 40mm, doesn't look like a big drop.

The rpm signal is picked up off the coil so thats another option.

That depends on the spec your going to, if your going the FCD route then I would say forget it and just get an ECU, my opinion of course.

The best way is to not do anything and leave it as it is, its only poorly setup engines that do it. Unless running features like launch control, 2 step or anti lag and your names Sebastian Loeb.

Yeah its called a micrometer and feeler blades. You need to rotate the cam so that the lobe base is at the bottom, slip your feeler gauge in and check to see if it has the correct clearance. If not measure the shim with a micrometer and alter the size or buy more shims to give you the correct clearance.

A rim that is 7J wide and an offset of 35mm will most likely help your cause, but as said not every wheel this spec will clear as it depends on spoke design. The best ones are Advan RG, SSR, CE28. However you are looking at paying a fair few quid for those wheels!

Bump want to order my new turbo so this has to go.

You can get it alloy welded if you can find someone who will take the job on, quite a common problem tbh. Cut slots through the webs inbetween the exhaust runners to relieve the stress in the flange.

I'd expect quite a lot mate as they are pretty epic! What is the bore size? I'd say somewhere in the price region of a new HKS Silent Hi power.

Or use a pedal box and get rid of the master cylinder and servo on the bulkhead It's hard to do a how to, as everyone keeps different things, plus some of the wiring and plugs vary from certain years. The best thing to do is to look at wiring diagrams to understand what you can and can't remove from the loom, then its just a case of moving everything out the way. Moving the fusebox is the main thing to clear up.

The ignition systems are both the same. You won't really need to swap out for something with higher voltage and longer spark duration unless your looking to push over 1.7 bar or running high compression. If you are then you should be looking to use a standalone ecu at those pressures and just use some LS1 coils.