steve-gers

I can do things like discs, pads, bleeding, suspension components, engine mounts, water pumps, exhaust components........etc pretty much anything as long as I have a rough idea how to do it and some extra time. But yeah may be easier and safer to just get my local mechanic to do it as he only charges £22 and hour.

I have never touched a copper brake pipe before but if it's an easy job then I should be able to do it no bother. Could you give me a rough idea on what needs to be bought and how to do it.

Yeah i'm going to change the rubber hoses to braided in the near future aswell but just concentrating on the copper ones just now as I have a daughter and need the car to be safe.

In the cars MOT (February) it got an advisory which was that one of the brake pipes was slightly corroded. Under the car the last day I had a look at it and it's very slight rust but rust nonetheless so to be safe I will just replace all of the copper pipes soon before I give the car a coat of waxoyl (currently not undersealed). I was just wondering how easy it would be to buy the copper pipe and a cutting tool + fittings and doing it myself? If not how many hours roughly would it take a garage to do it?

Possible group guy happening on tgtt

It doesn't damage the alloy at all and is easily taken off

Are the rear braided lines still for sale?

http://www.dutycalculator.com/

Cost £220 (receipt) new but unsure of make as it was on the car when I bought it. Now on ebay for a quick sale as I need money for new brake pads.

It needed chopped down a wee bit but is easily done with a stanley knife. Fits the sump bit and the turbo bit fine and is very well priced.

Just found this on ebay so bought one to replace the old black standard one and thought I'd share it with anyone who is looking for one.

bump

Depends how old they all are. To be safe I would just replace them all (manifold to head, manifold to turbo, turbo to cat/decat and cat/decat to exhaust) at the very least change the first 2.

facom ones look pretty decent

A friend of mine has a snap on one and it's very good. It's pretty compact so it can fit in small spaces but works better than his air powered one.

may have these off you depending how much life the pad has left?

I have all 4 studs for it but lost one of the nuts so will include 4 new ones in the price or for an extra £5 I will include 4 new studs and nuts for it. Like I said, served me well at 0.8 bar with a braced decat and was a massive improvement over the stock item. I could also have it welded professionally for an extra £20 if required.

No bother will take some just now. Still produced a bar with the wee cracks but I would definitely weld them 1st before I put it on if I were you.

I have a ct9 manifold that has now been swapped for a WEPR one. Has been on the car around 18 months and was totally fine until I changed the braced decat for a different unbraced one and upped the boost from 0.8 to a bar at which point (after about 4 months of use) it developed some hairline cracks. Due to some custom work I need the brace bit on the engine for something else and so bought a WEPR manifold as there known to be bombproof and removed the mentioned one. So with a bit of welding and for someone running 0.8 bar or less with a braced decat it should be fine as it was for me. Looking

Ok cool how many litres roughly and was it dexron 3 that you used?

Here

What's the best way to change the transmission fluid in an auto? I've heard it's to remove the dipstick and suck the oil out with a suction pump and replace same amount of old oil removed with new stuff (around 5 litres?) but this doesn't replace the oil in the torque convertor? So if anyone could clear this up and how to change it all by the best method and also the amount of oil required that would be great.

It was definitely at full throttle you can hear the engine note in the video.

True, well say a rolling start from 20-30 then lol.