steve-gers

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Does it not need a vic test if it's been wrote off?

Do you have engine/gearbox mounts for sale?

Do you have any of the engine/gearbox mounts?

Anyone at all? Need this quite sharpish if anyone has one please.

I have an auto with a dying rear gearbox mount and am changing all bushes to polybushes. I have been told that the rear gearbox mount on the manual NON LSD boxes will fit the auto if one of the mounting holes is re-drilled a bit bigger. So has anyone got a rear gearbox mount from a manual non LSD gearbox for sale? Only require the metal part so doesn't matter which state the bush is in or if it's missing. Thanks

My mate has a mk1 focus RS running about 330bhp and his dad has a mk2 with the 350bhp upgrade and both are very impressive and pull like trains right up through the rev range in all gears plus the torque is immense.

A guy on tgtt told me that if you use the manual one and drill one of the mounting holes out a bit then it fits the auto's?

Same thing happened to me abot 10 times so had enough and replaced the clamp which snapped on the way off with a new one and been perfect since.

Pretty sure my problem is that I need new engine mounts (will confirm tomorrow with the help of a friend though) and I have been looking online for new ones (either OE or polybush) and was wondering which ones I need for my car being an auto? Will any of the manual ones fit?

I thought after looking at the video I would check mine and it has air coming out also but I would say it's a fairly low amount/pressure and there is no smoke at all so I'm guessing that is normal?

Yeah I'm starting to think engine + gearbox mounts aswell as it clunks abit changing from reverse to 1st and vice versa and there is a kinda metal clink noise aswell. It's an auto so would the engine mounts off a manual fit and also which gearbox mount would I need to get?

Forgot to say it usually goes away around 3-4k and car still pulls fine (as well as it can with a fecked mani)

Recently my car has developed a pretty bad vibration at low rpm but is not consistant. It is there most of the times but I'd say about 15-20% of the time it goes away. There are a couple of problems I know of with the car which are that not long ago I had an HT lead rub through and was sparking against the intercooler pipe near the dizzy cap and have currently got a quick fix (electrical tape) sorting that out. It was about 2 months ago and was totally fine so I doubt it would be this as I have checked for sparking under the bonnet when it's dark. I have also changed the plugs fairly recently so doubt it's these, also I should say that I'm getting magnecor leads for it on thursday just to rule that out anyway. Next problem it could be (maybe) is that my manifold is dying a slow and painful death and is cracking worse and worse by the day, have bought one from WEPR and just waiting for it to come but need the car in the meantime. I doubt it would be this due to the fact that 15-20% of the time it doesn't vibrate and I would have thought that it would be all the time if this was the problem. Not had a good look yet but it may be the exhaust vibrating under the car and I doubt it's engine related as it had a full rebuild in 2009 (less than 30k ago) and also due to the fact that it's intermittent. Any advice would be great cheers.

Does ANYONE know if a 39mm stud (link number 3) will be long enough for the manifold?

anyone got or had this problem?

Ah i see. The other problem I have is that there is only 1 threaded hole on my car for the rail that the loop part of the seatbelt bolts into?

Been busy lately so just got round to this. Ok pulled off the rear doorcard to fit seatbelt tension/reel thing and my old one was still in place (belt had been cut off) so removed that but the one I bought is totally different (pic below) anyone got any idea why?

possibly but best to clean up and have a look to be sure, you could also visually check the gasket

Yeah it had covered the whole bottom of the engine in oil and chassis legs.....etc and was clearly coming from the part where the metal pipe meets the flange onto the turbo. Luckily I caught it in time, if it's just a leaky gasket then try give the whole area a good wipe then run the car and look for where the fresh oil is coming from.

The braided one would be better but I got this one.

Nah what would you say it's worth about 2500-2800?

That's kinda what I was thinking but just though I would ask

Mine broke at the join between the metal pipe and the flange and pissed oil everywhere, just caught it in time before it did engine damage.

shame your not a cross dresser you could of used your tights haha.