I will look at reviews on them but surely over the spring pressure it is the EBC controlling the boost anyway? My controller has a red warning light and beeper that you can set at desired pressure to warn you that you are over boosting anyway.
Can't afford tial for at least another month and I'm impatient lol, plus there is no point paying 200 quid for a wastegate when a 60 quid one does the same job.
Going TD04 as soon as my WEPR mani and downpipe is made up and delivered but need some advice. I will be running somewhere between 0.6-0.8 low boost and 1.0-1.1 high boost and would like to know if I should keep the internal wastegate or order an externally gated mani instead? I have a greddy profec b spec 2 ebc and the main things I need are a quick spool and no boost spikes.
Thanks for all the help. Checked the dipstick oil seal and when I removed it the rubber was very perished and so brittle that when I bent it, it snapped. So have replaced that and seems to have cured it but will keep an eye on it.
I have a greddy profec b spec 2 electronic boost controller. Thanks thats what I needed to hear as I didn't want to fit it all then have to take it apart later.
What I meant was even with the actuator arm fully extended (with everything bolted in place) it only opens the penny to an angle of roughly 45 degrees and I need to know if this will be far enough open to hold boost stead at 0.8-1.0 bar or will I need to adjust the bracket so that the arm can open the penny up further when it is fully extended.
As above how far does it need to open to prevent a boost spike running about 0.8-1.0 bar? Have made a bracket for the actuator but with the actuator arm fully out the penny is roughly open 45 degrees.
I think your the guy that mailed me before. I will offer you £200 cash for the manifold and downpipe, you can keep the gaskets, rad, air filter.....etc. Let me know.
My car has started leaking oil and its kind of hard to tell where it's coming from to be precise. It usually leaves 2 small spots (one at front and one at back of sump) overnight and occasionally another small spot in between the 2. Noticed recently that the engine side of the drive shaft and the bracket for the alternator have some oil on them (although it could be grease as I had a burst CV gaiter) and also the sump is quite oily. I'm guessing either dipstick oil seal, sump needs resealed or (hopefully not) crank oil seal. Any ideas of how I can check exactly where it is coming from?