Jump to content

steve-gers

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    1028

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by steve-gers

  1. steve-gers
    - Relocated air filter (if not already done) - Bolts for WEPR kit (3x m10 nuts and bolts) - Wideband or checked on a rr - Fuel pressure reg - New exhaust gaskets - Make sure turbo includes actuator and oil drain pipe - Banjo bolts for oil and water
  2. steve-gers
    Here is the clip you need http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B002SQY852
  3. steve-gers
    Yeah al give that a try if bleeding doesn't work cheers.
  4. steve-gers
    Where are the 2 mounting points for the b-pillar bars?
  5. steve-gers
    No leaks behind boot, will bleed tomorrow and see. Ut went from being fine to fecked without notice so just a bit strange.
  6. steve-gers
    When the pedal is on the floor it is basically engaged around 10-20% (at a guess) no slipping at all through the gears in boost though. Must be the clutch broke up or fecked bearing but the bearing is not and has never been noisey.
  7. steve-gers
    Yeah loctite them but make sure its the high temp stuff you use.
  8. steve-gers
    Trying to diagnose my clutch problem today and took a quick video of the movement of my slave cylinder (link below). Could somebody have a look at there cylinder aswell and have a look to see if this amount of movement is enough to push clutch or whether it is not. Thanks. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIvjLeX2wA4
  9. steve-gers
    I would go TD, there prices are great and there service is second to none. Never too busy to answer your questions no matter how big or small the problem and are very friendly.
  10. steve-gers
    you need wheeltrims held on with cable ties in your life
  11. steve-gers
    I found it easier to just remove the bottom ball joint nuts and swing the shaft out the way.
  12. steve-gers
    I found it simple to do it all but that is because I had the engine out haha. Anyway clutch has now went and I need to do it all again with the engine in so what is the best way with the engine mounts as there were a pain getting back in the car? I was thinking drop rear gearbox mount right out and battery side one out aswell so that the box can drop out and engine can tilt on last mount?
  13. steve-gers
    I have a starter cheap but you will need to give me your part number to see if its the same.
  14. steve-gers
    Anyone got any good ones? These are some of the best I have seen. - Some random guy >>> - Jason Plato in BTCC >>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cH9911_Y2pU - IOM TT Scooby (Mark Higgins) >>> - Colin McRae metro 6R4 >>> - Superbike >>> - Ridiculous superbike save >>>
  15. steve-gers
  16. steve-gers
    Best way to get casing out for me was carefully cut through both sides with a hacksaw to cut in into 2 pieces then punch them out with hammer snd chizel.
  17. steve-gers
    There easy to make mate
  18. steve-gers
    Throttle cable?
  19. steve-gers
    It's either EXH003 or EXH015 I used for mid section, can't remember which but can have a look.
  20. steve-gers
    Need some videos of you upsetting some businessman is his merc/beemer.....etc haha.
  21. steve-gers
    I have used paint thinners before ina high pressure gun, works very well.
  22. steve-gers
    Do it with a steam cleaner instead
  23. steve-gers
    I have a quadlight and its white, I crashed on passenger side so drivers is fine.
  24. steve-gers
    There was a guy on here selling a passenger side one I will try and find out as I have a drivers side one in white aswell so would make a pair.
  25. steve-gers
    Sorry up in price a bit (£6.32 each) now. Kust search exh005 on ebay and you need 2 of them for backbox, will find part number for mid section ones as there slightly different.
×
×
  • Create New...