steve-gers

Ah right I see. They should have enough adjustment in them to correct it but will keep that in mind thanks. Will have to do until I can get a wishbone on it.

I thought that aswell, only thing I was thinking though is that if it was the wishbone would it not be positive camber rather than negative? Shouldn't need camber bolts as the top mounts are obviously camber adjustable?

I recently had a bit of a bump in the starlet and now have it back on the road but have a problem with the camber on the passenger side wheel which took a knock in the accident. I have Meister R Zeta R coilovers on which were set at -1 degree of negative camber before the crash. After straightening it all out (only inner wing and front slam + crash bar damage) the passenger side wheel has more camber than the drivers. The coilover looks straight but not had it off to check, wheels go in a straight line now that it has been re-tracked. Wishbone looks to have taken a cosmetic kind of bash/scra

Don't jinx me! haha. Hopefully it should be ok as it's only done 36,000 since it's rebuild and it's mapped so it is running nicely

cheers will try that aswell. It's 1 thing after another just now with the thing though

How soon will you be sorting the group buy for your clutches mate as that is what I had in mind? Been told to check the travel of the slave cylinder first aswell by pulling fork over with prybar and then getting somebody to press clutch then release the fork and make sure it doesn't push the slave back. Hope it's not the master cylinder either because that was a cunt to get in place during manual conversion.

Here is a quick summary and background of the car and problem. About 2-3 months ago I converted the car from auto to manual and everything has been running fine since then. Today drove in to get her MOT'd and the clutch started to feel funny all of a sudden and without warning. The biting point went from being normal to right down on the floor and from slightly progressive to being like a switch. It is an exedy 3 puk paddle and yes I know paddles are harsh but it used to be alot more progressive than it is now, it is literally on or off. It has now got worse to the point where i have to ma

Thats very contradictive

Your gt must be slow then mate

You could get away with only removing the downpipe providing you can get the actuator off to allow the penny to open.

Lets pretend that never happened haha. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160537065750?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2648

Would these be ok on a '95 GT, obviously it is team dynamics wheels that I have but unsure of hub bore.

Was frank bruno shit? When he fought lewis he wasn't in it anymore, if lewis had of fought him in his peak he would of destroyed him. His record speaks for itself, youngest boxer to be world champ, only heavyweight to unify all 3 titles, 40 odd ko's out of 50 odd fights alot of them in the 1st round....etc. He was alot shorter than most heavyweight boxers aswell so was at a reach disadvantage, easily one of the best boxers of all time.

I have a spare wheel

I'm pretty sure thats turbo. Does it smoke if you accelerate hard in a gear then let off and decelerate in the same gear?

If your any good with metal then make them, really easy to do.

The 501 bulbs are for the warning lights down the bottom

I'm sure I read somewhere that some cars didn't come with rear speakers.

Any links?

Pretty sure you could get them cheaper ordering direct. If not then race-tech it is.

I'm on a 2 week training course with the fire brigade so if you could post a price up that would be great as I wont have time for the next 2 weeks.

What would you order from them though? What size and length of hose? What fittings and what size?

For £500 budget them DGR coilovers would def be recommended.

Same fitment, may need trimming though.

The mods listed all allow the engine to breathe, take air in and let exhaust gasses out better and more free + easy.