daniel_g

Even bog standard a remap on a modern diesel shows some difference! Both in power and also higher mpg in most cases. Start ripping DPFs, EGRs, swirl flaps etc and turns diesels into animals. If its mapped right, ie on a dyno then should be sound. If some cunt came round the boys house with a samsung tablet, a usb and a tuning box then those kinda generic maps are gonna be the ones causing harm id have thought.

Stay well clear of those FPRs dude. Is it the 4 wire o2 sensor on that engine then being the Gen3?

Forgot you were using the Gen3 DIS ignition system. As for the FPR, dont get the cheapest one you can find (ebay) because they are dog shit, stick at 4bar and cause hassle. Something like an aeromotive, sard, etc and you'll be sorted.

The early JDM EP82 N/a was 100ps so thats the ECU you want. Pretty hard got these days.

Check the dizzy cap and rotor arm for cracks, damage, signs of moisture. Also worthwile carring out a resistance check on the leads.

I thought you were ripping the cunt in your first post Marc, was getting autometer mixed up with autogauge!

There are some yeah, think they are designed for the 5EFE but do fit the 4EFE. OBX and Hotshot are a couple i cant remember any others.

E11 is the tubular inlet yeah. That exhaust mani has a different flange because its ment for the 4AFE engine. Could be made to fit my chopping off the flange and welding on the 4EFE flange. The runners might need moved slightly aswell.

12x6 front and 13x7 on the back, you dont want the back one too small or it doesnt fill the recess properly and looks a bit odd.

Right, now how long before its turbo'd? Haha nah kiddin on enjoy it for a while!

Good work dude looks like a decent conversion, the 4E is a pretty decent engine!

If youre wanting to get corolla manis, its the E10 exhaust mani you need and the E11 inlet mani.

Do rota do gauges?

Yeah they came without the splitter, being an option only some had it. (well prob more with it than without?!) Look 10 times better with the optional splitter imo!

Guy called Chris Stewart owned the car a while ago, he might know for definite what make the cage is.

I did this on my old GT. Mines ECU. Just stay around a bar, i ended up maxing out the standard MAP sensor at around 1.1 / 1.2 bar and shat a rod. I used an aeromotive FPR, AVCR EBC and a innovite wideband.

If you get stuck bring it down one weekend, to do it properly takes a few hours, the dash has to come out to take the evaporator out the heater box. Also get the gas removed from the system before touching it, the gas in liquid form will burn though skin and eyes. Im certified to work on AC systems.

Does your FE have a threaded hole on the block for a knock sensor? If not you'll need a hole tapped for it. Parts from a turbo car you will need are. Sump and strainer Oil filter housing Thermo housing with sensors to match loom Dizzy and leads Coil and ignitor Engine ancillary loom Inlet and TB Knock sensor Use a FTE rocker Exhaust mani, turbo, intercooler etc. Prob a couple other wee bits i cant remember, piece of piss man

Pay petrol from Stirling and back aswell and i'll do it haha. Kidding on my daily is a 3L

Gen1 Inlet & TB is the same as the FTE ones. Ive got one here to go on my GT N/a build. The only difference is the IAT sensor, its not on the front of the inlet, its in the airbox piping.

Sounding like the turbo has let go dude!

That looks really good, quick turnaround with it aswell, putting most folk to shame haha!

Yeah thats the only one i know of.

Ive seen on in a Glanza

Theyre called dome nuts, ebay for a few quid.