Fozzie

I just fitted mine dry, but some people recommend putting a small blob of sealant on all the corners and around where the cams and dizzy go.

You'll be sorted with a TF and those mods I reckon, it's supposed to be a nice punchy turbo rather than a massive lag monster. If you're on the standard manifold I'd just bin it and replace with a proper TD fitment one from a reputable trader. If you already have an aftermarket CT9 manifold then either cut off the old flange and get a mate etc to weld you on a new one for the TF, or just get a bolt on adaptor fabricated to convert the CT9 flange to a TF/TD one. Dean at RW used to sell those I'm sure, I think Mikey used to use one on his NA/turbo conversion.

Full of good ideas me mate Might be easiest to get your manifold adapted and mock up the TF, then adjust your downpipe/FMIC to suit?

If you know someone whose good with a welder, perhaps you could have the flanges on your manifold and downpipe changed over to fit the TF and then keep everything else the same?

You generally find them on RHD Japan for around £115 delivered, depending on currency fluctuations. I've seen people on here order them and then have it on their doorstep 3/4 days later!

Great update, I really enjoyed reading all the nitty gritty on how you got everything built back up. Look forward to seeing more on this!

Ahhh I see - that is a very unfortunate place to have a grommet missing haha. Glad it's all sorted now

Glad that you managed to fix it after all that runaround! Out of interest, how was that much water getting in to the car? Did the windscreen fall out??

Since you're not running wheels with an extreme offset you'll probably get away with lowering 40mm without the panhard. IMO it's recommended for any drop though as it helps to keep everything in line correctly.

Maybe it would be cheaper to go see Dean at RW Developments and get him to make you one?

Ahh I'm with you now, good point fellas I'd be very interested in a wiring guide for the conversion - I'm sure that plenty of other people of here would be too, it's a question that comes up pretty frequently!

Out of interest, is there any particular benefits to wiring in the FTE ECU rather than using the Det3? Just intrigued as turbo-ing mine is something that I've had in the back of my mind for a while, and connecting up the piggyback looks like considerably less hassle then using the FTE ECU

Looks great! I do like those alloys, you don't see all that many of them being kept really.

That's really smart, will look forward to more updates

Ahh ok, the Starlet might be slightly different to the Paseo then. Personally I think it's worth upgrading them as it's not a particularly big or expensive job to do. I'm not 100% if the locations are the same in the Starlet as the Paseo (I think the Starlet has at least one speaker under the dash?), but if there are front door ones then they're easy to get to. Rear ones might have some trim over but again, not a big problem to access.

The plastic trim around the stereo and heater controls just pulls out - grab it at the very bottom and pull it gently, it should just unclip. Once it's off you will see some screws that are holding the old stereo bracket in place, just unscrew these and you can pull the old unit out. I just screwed through the old bracket and in to some pre-tapped holes on the side of my new head unit. I seem to remember that you need an adaptor plug to convert the oem wiring to the standard stereo plugs, but I could be mistaken on that as it was about 4 years ago that I did mine! Edit: think it's some

Could get a Paseo (if you don't need lots of space) - can pick them up for peanuts and they're both bulletproof and super economical. I've had 48/49 mpg out of them on a long run before.

Had his BC coilovers off him and there were no issues at all, they were with me super quick. No problems recommending him!

That Triumph is lovely. The 4E looks right at home in there!

As Gainzy said. I would also think it wise to cap the boost on the TD04 at 0.6 Bar and install an AFR gauge while you're running it in, just so you can keep an eye on it.

Most likely they're Excel Gs, those are the most common ones to find.

That job is a right dick to get right. My advice would be to loosen the bolts slightly then use a hydraulic jack to gently lift the corner of the open door up. Then while the door's being supported by the jack, tighten the bolts back up. Once you take the jack away, be careful closing the door until you're sure the catch lines up right, or else you'll put a dent in the thing! Keeping playing as required and make sure you don't put the wing back on until you're certain everything lines up ok

TurboGrant used to have a shitload of Doobie bits for his GT. Sure it had a full kit on, plus a load of spares!

That's more like it Might need to sell a few organs first mind you. And some of my family's.

Yea I guess it's in line with the competition, maybe it's just the whole class that I find disappointing. I just wish some manufacturer would take more risks and come out with a mini hot hatch that was a proper animal, not just these warm versions. 500 Abarth sounds like it might be more along those lines - they look smart but I've never got to go in one. New hatches just seem to boil down to 'circa 200hp and safe styling'?