Chris_GlanzaV98

Thats alright dont worry about it but funny you hould say that and im not trying to be a knob but you say you were thinking about forgeing and tdo4 or gt28 a gt28 would be ridiculous for a car you dont need to modify because of your rally cars Even 280hp on tdo4 is very fast for a car you didnt need to modify another reason going forged wouldnt be your best option if younwernt chasing big power

Youll most likely find lee up driftland, he is into his drifting now last time I seen him was up knockhill in summer, dont really think he is driving a starlet anymore haha

Haha your no right rob haha

Gt28 is massivly different from a tdo4 bear in mind the price of that kit also around 2k depending on the spec of it Just forewarning you incase you dont realise the costs envolved buy a forged engine and decide ill just leave it actually, saves you buying one for no reason not to mention your supporting mods even for a td04 ecu, injectors, brakes, maps guages etc just get a shopping list together and see if you wanna do it thats how i done it

Im moving into my unit with a mate in 2 weeks ill have some pics up of that mainly just tool, light set ups but may give you an idea on things you could do in your garage

Great colour glwts

Its not just the price of the engine its the maintanence costs aswell, services are more frequent, whats the point in going Forged if your going to stay on ct9 turbo ? Thats 400 quid wasted already you know what im saying ? Me personally i would buy a second hand engine for 500 quid you can blow nearly five up before it costs you the price of a forged one, and i doubt your going to pop five, buy one of someone who is breaking on here and who is a trusted seller among the lads This is just my opinion though, it is your car after all

To run a forged engine you have to service them alot warm them up and cool them down properly to so none of this turn the key and drive as normall have to keep them under 3k untill fully warm and done a few miles, i service mine every 1500 miles, granted its no even done that since run in but serviced before it went away for winter and will be a major service before it comes back out Do you really beed a forged engine, for Daily driving i would say a standard lump would be more cost effective not to mention runnin it in oil, filters etc or paying the tuner to do it on the dyno is around 500 quid so theres 2800 before its even mapped Going forged is expensive so be prepared if you do, not to mention forged parts are more expensive if they break yes warrenty is included but youll be without your car for a couple months having the work done and no doubt youll leave with loads more parts than you went in for

Like i mentioned youl will wait a couple months for your engine to be built man, best getting hold of a good second hand one build by td or the likes

Lol bucket haha Depends what spec You want tbh loads of different ways to build them depends what you are after if you are staying ct9 i would just stay standard but to chase big power you have to forge it really

I was ready to fly into this thread all guns blazing, robs a good guy ! Im sure most will come in here with the same mindset as i did haha

Love my eg6 aswell as my v good spec list on this car, such good cars to drive anyone thinking about tryig honda this is defo where you wanna start so much fun to be had in these cars ! Glwts buddy

On another note though make sure you know exactly whats weong before you start looking to rebuild might not have to be rebuilt and your mate has gave you a false diagnosis what were the symptoms ?

This is the problem buying a "rebuilt" engine unless there are reciepts to say it was a reputable builder that carried out the work personally i wouldnt teust it, not saying noone else can build engines but you dont know the person you are buying from. If you are rebuilding it for the price difference you may aswell go forged, but if you have someone build it for you be prepared to wait

check all the wiring to the pump as well, just in case one has miraculously split

are you sure its getting fuel and a spark ? after cranking are the plugs wet or dry ? i would double check the timeing and compression mate, im sure one of the fifers will have a compression tester if you dont failing that you can come and borrow mines

i would think missfire but it would have to be pretty serious not to rev over 2k at idle when the car isnt under load ?

get an adjustable actuator and have it set up at a rolling road, dont bother messing with the standard one as its fucked and will let you down in the future even if its sorted

im from the east end mate not far from you then, insurance shouldnt be to hard at 19 i insured my glanza when i was 18, wasnt cheap mind you, hopefully see you about

i have 20mm hubcentrics on the front and never had a rub, i would roll the arches mate think arch rollers are cheap enough and easy enough to do yourself

seems quite cheap if gen red, normally about 3500 and considering the mileage aswell...

profec b spec II im running bud seems good enough

yo man, im from glasgow myself where abouts you from ? what age are you etc, just to try help you out with insurance as they can be pricey

can you make the title a bit clearer mate cant understand what your getting at ?

as above ^