5e colin

just drill the na housing for 2 ports and tap 2 bungs in there that will take hose simple job mate

they blow because NUMBNUTS tuned it and hadn't a clue our engines will take a bar for years if not driven like vtec the 4efte is 1 of the strongest out there from that generation turbo motors !!!!!

that actually sounds better then my rebuild engine mate thats how our 4e engines sound most of that sound comes from the valvetrain

ha ha made me laugh this morning :) still need a few extra rods and 4efe cranks before they can be build again got to collect them now boys because in 20 years there wont be any around for me anymore build them now while you can :)

never mentioned it in starter post that its forged ???

^^^ just dont miss nothing ha ha

get it recond by liam d fo 190£

get that vid up make sure to be close so we can hear it

wow didnt see this pic you put up till now to the right of where the new hole in the block is the nut there is only on 4efte blocks more info in here http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/91181-engine-identifying/#entry1090609

welcome to ukso

yes timing belt 1 same when you do passo side put the jack under the Gbox and undo the long bolt going tru the mount in the chassi leg and undo the 3 bolts for the bracket to the box dont forget to loosen the 2 bush bolts or it will be a cunt to loosen 1s the bracket/mount unit comes of there is also a 14mm bolt holding on another earth strap !!!!

you can use it indeed from another box and grind/cut to size but u will need to take the whole box apart , it wont be the 1st thats fixed there

there easy to do but there is a nut under neath the mount thats the tricky part do this 1 first then jack up engine undo the 2 top boltes and the long bolt going tru the mount and the 12mm both that holds on the vsv and earth wire

could you link me for the liner ollie , anything to improve i wonder if a euro torch could be fitted ?? there great to weld with compared to this

ha ya basic it is , its the cheapest gas/mig on the market ha ha , had another play a while ago i turned it to 6 and slowed the wire down a very smal bit welds a lot better already with the help from my neighbour , he checked/ messed around with the wire spool and guide motor etc etc, wire is coming out a lot smoother to now !! lesson learned

1 bar mate any more is playing a slots machine if you get that block i would do conrod bearings mate ease of heart incase there old and go in a few months !!!!

diference between gen1 and 2 mine is gt the other 1 is a v engine or is it the other way round ??

cheers chops its a rhyas 135A ( smal yoke ) my wire feed is at nr 8 ( out of 10 ) and power is on 5 ( out of 6 ) al the material i weld is 3 to 4mm thick pipe

10 psi on a 4efe block is ok ( ct9 ) cant say for tdo4 pressure wise tho !! but as jdm freak says use a na engine to fix the turbo engine to ue q the only real diference internal is rods/pistons

so didnt do fek al sinds the 17th ( but ) soooo finally got my BOC account sorted and forked out for some argoshield 2 liter bottle and a swp regulator , i set the airflow to 10l as i was told to for ms , also there only ( 18e ) refills :) so set up the mig an this is where my setting is best what do you guys think recomend dont mind the crap on the front thats when i was checking amps and wire speed also the brown stuff is that normal ??? this is after wire brush looks ok/good to me but i am just an amature welder so dont really know what to look AT

fit a na engine boost low for a while till you have original 1 rebuilt

no the bolt that bolts in the block there is only on turbo blocks ( at the point of stanley ) on non turbo blocks its blank

probly timing belt jumped jack stop raping your car mate its not a vtec

thats a pure bearing failure sound gutted for you mate

thats becous genuine gt turbo engines are scaars as fuck and in very low nrs compared to those v engines they are everywhere you look