gibby1980 Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 Good day all, Is anyone running the AEM EMS-4 on their 4efte/5efte with the stock ignition (dizzy/distributor)? I am asking because I seem to have "noise" on the cam input which cause the car to sputter & jerk between 3k-4k rpm. Once you clear this area, the car is smooth. I logged and reviewed and it's not lean in the specified area. I've read you can use resistor to clean this up so the car can rev out clean but I have not seen a write up or pics on how to do this. Have anyone installed this EMS before? If yes, did you all have similar problem and how did you solve it. Any information would be appreciated. Kind regards, Gibby Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 (edited) I'm on the aem f/ic 6 piggy back. This was already installed in the vehicle when I bought it and I've installed a Jacobs electronics single 64kv dry proformance coil, on the factory dizzy I did this because I was getting poor spark plug proformance around boost build rpm 3krpm to 4.5krpm on a tdo4l hyb. This is the rpm area that first sees boost pressure and is required to respond fast with a great amount of torque output from the motor. So you could get jerking. Check your spark plugs over and try closing the plug gap to .6mm see if this helpes. If it does get a new coil. With the 64kv C4 coil I run a 1mm plug gap and I can report good things so far egt down and better more accurate afr readout on my wide band with a noticeable drop in engine CO and hc emissions. I'm also running the E3 type spark plugs which allow me to run a heat range 6 plug (better cylinder reach improving flame propergation) at 1bar of boost pressure rather than a shallower heat range 7 plug. Edited July 21, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gibby1980 Posted July 21, 2020 Author Share Posted July 21, 2020 Hi Sam, Thank you for the input. I will gap the plugs a bit closer to see if things improve. I will go COP (From the 2zz motor) with a modified dizzy (Similar to AEM EPM unit with the 24-1 nissan wheel and optical sensor ) if I don't see any positive change come next week. Gibby Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Claymore Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 I know its not the same EMS but this post might help. Can you apply filters in the programming software to filter out the "noise". Worth a read Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 (edited) Keep us posted. I have a 2nd ep91 forged 5e build on the go also and I'm looking at either the mega squirt v3 or aem stand alone. So all this will help me out. Edited July 21, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mycars12 Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 Sadly the distributor setup isnt the best. Adding a resistor to the positive cam signal wire should help a bit. Other than that you can try doing the tooth mod to convert the signal to only use the crank trigger and eliminate the cam sensor. My car revved out fine without using a resistor but applying the filters in the software for the cam and crank signal. I will be using the crank sensor and trigger wheel from the 5efe motor for my built bottom end that im in the process of building. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gibby1980 Posted July 25, 2020 Author Share Posted July 25, 2020 On 7/21/2020 at 10:46 AM, Claymore said: I know its not the same EMS but this post might help. Can you apply filters in the programming software to filter out the "noise". Worth a read The AEMS don't come with noise filtering circuitry natively. Megasquirt has that. What the AEM has is knock control which the megasquirt don't have natively. Always a trade off somewhere. I haven't done anything much as we were prepping for a storm. I will go at it tomorrow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JxckGlanza Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 You can convert the stock dizzy to 12-1. And remove the cam signal. And/or try replacing the dizzy cable with a shielded wire earthed only at the ecu end. Give me a message if you want any help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gibby1980 Posted August 5, 2021 Author Share Posted August 5, 2021 Hi all, I got this working finally. I changed my Dizzy, used the 24-1 Crank and Cam pickup, and lowered the coil dwell from 3ms to 2.5 ms(got that on a supra forum). While I had these settings in place earlier I was advised the dizzy might be going bad so hence the switch. The car is running much smoother and the issues seen before are now gone. I still have more work to do as I have the boost solenoid connected to the ems-4 and have the boost governed by rpm currently. Ideally I'll like to switch this to boost by speed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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