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On 12/31/2020 at 5:07 PM, Bryan-4E-FTE said:

Leuke topic zo!
Ik was bevriend met de eerste eigenaar van je glanza en ik heb de velgen die op de foto's staan van Wangan Warriors.
Was toen der tijd een zeer bekende en snelle Glanza zowel op de openbare weg en het circuit.

Thanks man, nog geen Nederlandse topic voorlopig vanwege de lage activiteiten op het forum. 

De glanza heeft het een en het andere in de afgelopen jaren ingeleverd. Elke post komt de glanza wel dichterbij zijn oude staat inclusief een paar veranderingen. De velgen die je nu hebt zijn zeer tof en niet de zoveelste rota of japspeed velgen. Zelf ben ik nog opzoek naar een setje unieke velgen in de maat 15x6.5j. 

Ben al een tijdje aan het zoeken naar informatie van het verleden van de glanza en zo nu en dan kom je wat tegen. We zien elkaar wellicht wel eens op een meeting zoals japfest oid.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Small update.

Recently got a set of wind deflectors in good condition with all the clips to complete the glanza once I get it back.

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After 4 weeks I visited the car this weekend to check on the oil leaks I have. Found 3 which 2 where known all seem to be around the sump so needs to be resealed since the rear seal is already replaced. The front seal will be replaced together with the timing belt once I get the car back. The oil stain on the bottom is from leaking grease of the chassis.

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Removed the catch can from the car to make a second revision of it with new internals soon to go in. Few parts had a bit of a reaction due to the sealant etc nothing too bad though since the oil prevents rust and galvanic corrosion. The PVC fuel line did go milky and was already losing it flexibility so a different type of hose may be used in the next revision. Also the liquid gasket didn't bond with the bottom half of the catch can so next time a bit more scorching is needed.

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Cracked on with disassembling a Helical LSD for the MR2 etc. Tried to open in by removing the screws but it seems to be held in by something so if anyone knows how to separate the 2 parts please let me know. I want to inspect the worm gears etc.

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Edited by RoyalDutchie
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On 1/2/2021 at 1:11 AM, RoyalDutchie said:

Thanks man, nog geen Nederlandse topic voorlopig vanwege de lage activiteiten op het forum. 

De glanza heeft het een en het andere in de afgelopen jaren ingeleverd. Elke post komt de glanza wel dichterbij zijn oude staat inclusief een paar veranderingen. De velgen die je nu hebt zijn zeer tof en niet de zoveelste rota of japspeed velgen. Zelf ben ik nog opzoek naar een setje unieke velgen in de maat 15x6.5j. 

Ben al een tijdje aan het zoeken naar informatie van het verleden van de glanza en zo nu en dan kom je wat tegen. We zien elkaar wellicht wel eens op een meeting zoals japfest oid.

Is het ergens ook niet waard naar mijn idee.
Het Nederlandse forum is aardig dood gebloed in de loop der jaren.

Bedankt, ben ook nog steeds blij met de velgen.

Mocht je interesse hebben kan ik misschien wat oude foto's en informatie vragen over je Glanza..

En zoals altijd weer mooie vooruitgang, de lekkages zijn wat minder maar dat is gelukkig redelijk makkelijk op te lossen.

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  • 1 month later...

Minor update just collected a few bits still waiting on getting the car back in april.

Neat glanza badge:

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Also collected a set of rsr braces and maybe the best panhard rod a rsr stainless one:

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Not much more yet but watch this space much more to come once I graduate in June🎓

Edited by RoyalDutchie
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  • 3 weeks later...

Getting the glanza back next week small update.

Cleaned the catchcan en swapped the inlet etc so the lines don't cross anymore. Replaced the internals with copper instead of stainless, nature made copper conduct heat way better which makes it a better alternative to stainless. Folded some wire in the inside which now functions as a retaining spring for keeping the  copper sponges down. This time also prepped the surface better so the dirko sealant sticked better. Overal very happy with it now stil flows really wel in my opinion(no measurements but when blowing through it no pressure builds up and the pcv valve is a way bigger restriction if you have ever seen the part inside the block).

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Also got a model set for the impreza wrx sti type r version 6, seems to be just as rare as the car it is based on😅 Do really like the gc8. Also small example of what can be achieved. Got to do something with lockdown.

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Edited by RoyalDutchie
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On 4/3/2021 at 4:40 PM, Claymore said:

Good work mate :thumbsup:

Thx mate it is getting along, 2021 should be an exciting year with a lot of progress.

On 4/3/2021 at 8:27 PM, Sam44 said:

Nice, I think I'll be doing this to my catch can internals. Nice simple and affective. 

Loving the Impreza model. 

It worked really well with the previous revision. This should outperform it easily. Just need to get the standard glanza intake to the box show it can be actively cooled to keep it performing well. Currently use a piece of pvc fuel hose to connect the inlet to the aluminum tube inside the catch can. Was planning to use a piece of copper tube instead, still some improvements to be made but happy with how it is now.

Yup the gc8 platform is amazing would love to own one someday soon

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  • 2 weeks later...

After getting the glanza out of winter storage and driving it for a week it is time for an update.

Installed some enkei stickers after degreasing. Really need to clean the wheels (Don't get white wheels you need to clean them every single day😫).

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So the great reveal is here the glanza is back to the state it was back in 2017 in the front with the addition of the original badge. Fitting the fmic is going to be a healthy challenge now. Didn't completely fit the bumper yet still need a few new bolts from Toyota to get it flush. Moved the bonnet lock up a bit so I can now close the bonnet without smashing it.

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Edited by RoyalDutchie
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16 hours ago, Sam44 said:
  • They do modernise it for sure

Indeed pretty extreme what a few facelift items can do to a car back in the 90s. Pretty shocking the standard starlets in japan came with these units while the glanza got a lexus lights which I do not really like on a white starlet.

Edited by RoyalDutchie
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Currently waiting on the bumper mounting screws and brackets. Non of the bolts currently used are actually ment to be used on to mount the bumper🙄

The brackets for the bumper have a lead time of 30 days due to being out of stock(luckily not out of production). Wings currently have threaded inserts while they should be plastic pop in clips instead, the insert on one side is already cross threaded by now so before the new bumper is refitted with correct license plate holders these need to be removed.

Washed the car today wheel look way better now😅

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To get the diff apart you'll need an impact driver that you hit with a hammer like THIS to get the screws out (and do the reverse when you re-install them), and then tap around it to get it to separate 👍🏻

And don't worry about the chipping on the camshafts, they're all more or less like that from the factory 

I like what you've done with your catch can, and good job with the model 😎

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4 hours ago, Trevstar said:

To get the diff apart you'll need an impact driver that you hit with a hammer like THIS to get the screws out (and do the reverse when you re-install them), and then tap around it to get it to separate 👍🏻

And don't worry about the chipping on the camshafts, they're all more or less like that from the factory 

I like what you've done with your catch can, and good job with the model 😎

Thanks mate.

I think I removed the screws(pic below) from the diff but something was still holding it. Only the tapping is left now or am I missing something?

FSRrdgG.png

Thanks for the info on the cams, I do see and hear mixed things about the chipped lobes. It seems weird Toyota would put something like this out. These cars a budget build however so not weird if the casting have some weak spots due to cheap casting and grain structure.

Did enjoy tinkering with the catch can to get it to the point it is now. 

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Yeah the quality control of the cams will forever be a mystery, but I can't say I've personally ever heard of any breaking or having any issues:pardon:

Once you have removed the screws, get something like a chisel then gently & evenly tap around the edges of two halves to wedge them apart and separate them

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Not that your LSD is likely to wear out any time soon, but if you can, once it's apart I'd suggest looking into getting the gears super finished so that they mesh with each other more smoothly to give them an easier life and last longer, same with the gearbox gears

Edited by Trevstar
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On 4/28/2021 at 12:59 AM, Trevstar said:

Yeah the quality control of the cams will forever be a mystery, but I can't say I've personally ever heard of any breaking or having any issues:pardon:

Once you have removed the screws, get something like a chisel then gently & evenly tap around the edges of two halves to wedge them apart and separate them

DSC_0247_1603560665878.thumb.JPG.a928e0fee7e1011bb58196e78880e9f1.JPG

 

Not that your LSD is likely to wear out any time soon, but if you can, once it's apart I'd suggest looking into getting the gears super finished so that they mesh with each other more smoothly to give them an easier life and last longer, same with the gearbox gears

Thanks mate, will try to separate it with some plastic chisels and see how they hold up.

 I'll check the super finish, is it about the same as WPC or does it go about the treatment in a different way?

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4 hours ago, RoyalDutchie said:

I'll check the super finish, is it about the same as WPC or does it go about the treatment in a different way?

It is similar to WPC although it doesn't increase strength as such, basically they put it in a tub of extremely fine abrasive stones and vibrate the tub over night and it leaves a highly polished & extremely smooth finish that reduces friction (less wear and fatigue, which can cause cracks), which in turn reduces drag meaning less effort to turn the gears (less wasted power in other words). And it only removes a tiny miniscule amount of material

Given the choice between WPC or superfinishing, ideally I'd actually say a combination of both (WPC can be done over superfinishing), especially if your putting a decent amount of power through it than normal. But I would recommend to anyone to get superfinishing done at the bare minimum if they have the gearbox apart just to increase the longevity of the gears

I've had my gears superfinished on my C52 gearbox but not WPC treated since I can't find anyone near me that does it, and mine is a non turbo build so I won't be putting a mega amount of power through it to really need extra strength

Edited by Trevstar
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15 hours ago, Trevstar said:

It is similar to WPC although it doesn't increase strength as such, basically they put it in a tub of extremely fine abrasive stones and vibrate the tub over night and it leaves a highly polished & extremely smooth finish that reduces friction (less wear and fatigue, which can cause cracks), which in turn reduces drag meaning less effort to turn the gears (less wasted power in other words). And it only removes a tiny miniscule amount of material

Given the choice between WPC or superfinishing, ideally I'd actually say a combination of both (WPC can be done over superfinishing), especially if your putting a decent amount of power through it than normal. But I would recommend to anyone to get superfinishing done at the bare minimum if they have the gearbox apart just to increase the longevity of the gears

I've had my gears superfinished on my C52 gearbox but not WPC treated since I can't find anyone near me that does it, and mine is a non turbo build so I won't be putting a mega amount of power through it to really need extra strength

Should have a polishing tub somewhere for small parts, just need the correct media to polish parts. Ideally something to clean/polish bolts and sandblasted parts so they can be easily plated without requiring to do everything by hand.

I guess superfinish is a bit beyond a diy job? Not sure if superfinish would be something which is beneficial for a helical diff since it relies on friction iirc. 

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Yeah, superfinishing isn't really something you can do at home lol

The gears inside your diff don't work by friction but by torque biasing by design of the worm gears which sends torque to the wheel with the most resistance when they start to spin at different speeds, provided both driven wheels have some resistance, otherwise if one wheel has zero resistance (if one wheel was off the ground for example), it will act as an open diff

In a diff, when you travel in a straight line everything inside the diff is spinning together as one, but once you start to take a corner and things start spinning at different rates, that's where the wear starts in the diff

The helical LSD you have is ideal for road use because its less harsh, has smoother engagement and it can be fitted and forgotten about because doesn't need special maintenance or special oils. If it relied on friction you would need oil with friction modifiers that need changing more regularly. 

A clutch type LSD (like the one pictured in my post above) on the other hand are best suited for racing, and you definitely do not want to polish the clutch plates because these do rely on friction (hence why they need special oil and eventually wear out & need rebuilding. This is why I sold it and got a Quaife LSD) but the planetary gears certainly would benefit from being superfinished

If we were talking about a viscous LSD then that's a totally different story

Anything metal that spins at high speed and high torque, whether it be a gear in a gearbox, crankshaft, or even a camshaft would benefit from superfinishing since it reduces friction (= less wear, less stress/metal fatigue, and lower temperature), which makes it turn with less effort and have better oil retention to maintain a barrier between the two surfaces, but in terms of a gear, it also makes it engage smoother. I mean we're talking about chunks of metal teeth forcing against each other while spinning however fast. The only reason that it's not often done by manufacturers is because it takes time, and time is money

Imagine you have put in hours of designing & development to make the components for a diff or a gearbox, you got to get the raw materials which has to go through heat treatment or a forge which takes some time, machining which takes even more time, then assembly, but this could be done in a day or 2 for a major manufacturer. Then add superfinishing into the mix where you got to put all the pieces through a machine that has to run for 12 hours at least, and large pieces have to be put in separately otherwise they can damage the other pieces. Then add in WPC treatment which I imagine would take a little while also

End of the day though, if you're unsure, the best thing you can do is ask someone that actually does the process you're considering and/or someone from a company that knows differentials. But truth be told, the chances are it will probably last many years & miles without any kind of treatment necessary, just depends on the amount of abuse & miles it receives, how much you care for it, and if its something you can afford. Ideally all the gears in the gearbox should be done to get the true benefit anyway

(apologies for the long rambling post, this is just my educated view on it 😅

Edited by Trevstar
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@Trevstar No problem mate, I'm all in for information. There is a reason why I have a helical instead of a plate clutch. This car is going to be made for fast road use.

The IIRC parts was meant for a video from Wavetrac  where they "explain" why they use carbon faces to prevent the gears from "polishing" the housing tus reducing friction and reducing the consistency of the diff. These faces are actually between the diff housing and the top or bottom of the gears. I guess Wavetrac is a company which know about diffs since they develop them🤣. Since the superfinish would polish the top and bottom of the gears they would reduce the friction on the potential carbon faces if they would be there and of course the housing itself which they are in contact with. I'm unsure if this is due to the design Wavetrac is using or it being a general rule for worm gear diffs.

"The Wavetrac® diff’s behavior can be altered in the field to suit your needs. It comes standard with carbon-fiber bias plates for the best all around performance and lifetime durability. All other ATB LSDs like the Quaife run the helical gears on the diff casing, meaning the gears/housings can polish theirselves or transfer material, making for inconsistent performance. Changeable plates using materials with different friction coefficients to fine-tune the bias ratio are sold separately."

source: https://www.wavetrac.eu/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=7

Edited by RoyalDutchie
changed efficiency for consistency.
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Ahhh see this is where things start to get confusing, where you have 2 companies that recommend different things 🤔

As Quaife suggests the opposite - https://shop.quaife.co.uk/rem

I've had a few conversations with Nova racing (that does my superfinishing), plus a couple with Quaife themselves, and from my understanding with the research I've done, I don't understand why you would want to add friction to a gear when that's not quite how a helical type diff operates (Toyota, TRD, Quaife, wavetrac or otherwise), but especially with a coating that adds friction, surely that means the coating will wear off fairly quickly? And where surfaces are in contact with each other, wouldn't you want both surfaces to work together as best as possible rather than against each other? In my mind it's like rubbing 2 bits of sandpaper together lol 

And I guess that also means you wouldn't be able to apply the WPC either if you wanted to as it will effectively blast the coating off, unless they can mask it off or do the process by hand

Adding friction to any gear is not something that I have heard of being recommended in any research I've done or found offered as an after-treatment.

Wavetrac is a slightly different take on a helical type of LSD where they add in a kind of mechanical lock to stop it acting like a open diff when one wheel looses all traction which I can definitely see as being beneficial (although they don't make anything for toyota's for some reason?), but to go on and say Quaife as an OEM manufacturer has inconsistent performance is a little bold, but then again both wavetrac and Quaife have lifetime warranties, they both have a long standing rivalry, and they both have people that swear by them, so perhaps we are being sold bullshit from both sides? :unknw:

 

Edited by Trevstar
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