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On 7/22/2021 at 8:25 PM, Trevstar said:

Nice! Looking smart :thumbsup:

Thanks @Trevstar , nothing gives more satisfaction than replacing a china button with a good panel and a oem looking switch. Just need to wire the interior lighting for the green button, not sure from which connection I'll be tapping it from yet.

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The past week I've been replacing the timing belt and front seal. Did the job without removing the engine mount which might have made it more complicated than it should have been. Installing the timing belt was a major pain. Very hard to get it on all pulleys and in most cases it jumped time. After a few attempts I advanced(rotated cam gear clockwise a few degrees) the timing of the camshafts which resulted in the correct timing after installing the cambelt and tensioner. I did use a puller for the crankshaft to not chip it.

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Also replaced the rear mount with a new one since it was torn. Already had my suspicions since the car always made a knocking noise when shifting after a pull. Also felt like the engine or drivetrain had a bit to much play. The shaft checked out with minimal play and no rotational play so this only left the mount(s). I'll be checking soon if this solved the issue.

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Last thing I did was install a loom for tapping the interior lighting for the illumination ring just the rear defog switch needs it's wiring done now.

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A few more things coming up soon!

Edited by RoyalDutchie
Wrong term, didn't retard the timing
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Finished the complete loom for the interior lighting. Just need to get the dash out now and replace the dam vents. Also started to notice the difference in green with the center console. This is due too one being original and one aftermarket. In person this isn't really noticeable but something on the list for the next order.

Just the footwell lights and ignition barrel left to fit

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  • 1 month later...

Started fixing the idle speed finally, started with reducing the idle speed to about 1100-800 depending on temp(quite a bit of interior vibrations at lower revs, still need 2 of the engine mounts to be replaced). Removed the catch can and planning to get a threaded one and mod it, mine had a vac leak which created a leak for the engine and introduced high idle.

Cleaned the idle valve which had 2 of the 3 copper spring parts snapped of course, Replacing them is impossible these days. Will be looking into a replacement copper piece or another way to get a more common idle control valve into the car. Also snapped a weldin bolt for the adjustment screw of the headlight, and drilled it out with a 5mm drill and tapped it to a m6 size to get a bolt in which works fine for now.

Few braces installed:

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Just needs the fmic in it and a few more aftermarket bits on it to clear it up.

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  • 1 month later...

I've been busy the last month. Changed the oil and replaced the gearbox mount front side. Only one left to replace is the one connected to the engine which is next. No pics of the process, but it is done.

Finally replaced the center vents which was a though job, needed to remove the complete dash which was a pain, few pics:

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Installed the optional mk2 rescue man in a convenient place:

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Also permanently installed the facelift bumper with lip and replaced the rear light looms to support the angled rear blinker bulbs. New lens for the rear reflet lights (also have a new set of lenses spare for the future). These are also installed on the car, the rear fog light was swapped with a red bulb which turned out to be more pink. Waiting on a new dark one and a led bulb. depending on the color I may go with the led bulb since it is tapped from another bulb so no problems with strange obd codes if this is even possible with these cars. Did have a 42 code or something from the abs due to 2 rear light bulbs being broken, pretty strange after just swapping the looms. Fixed for now will keep my eye on it.

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Probably forgot a few things, pretty busy lately. Quite a few things around the corner, we have measured the fmic and a new set of wheels and a set of coilovers are nearly ready to go on.

Watch this space.

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On 7/26/2021 at 3:39 PM, RoyalDutchie said:

I retarded the timing of the camshafts which resulted in the correct timing after installing the cambelt

Always nice to read your posts.

I am figuring out a few things after my swap and because my mechanic doubted that my new timing belt is correctly in place I spoke to my friend who installed it do you understand if we did something wrong. We installed the timing belt in the right direction where you can read Toyota and crankshaft position was correct and the camshaft pulley was also in the correct position with its hole seeing through. We didn’t move anything I am double checked a couple of times. When we released the tensioner we also checked again to make sure. Is there a particular symptom with this engine when the timing belt is a camshaft dent off? In my opinion the engine runs well. I have other issues to solve. Let me know your opinion. Thanks

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9 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Great work. I need a left side lens for my reflex light it has a corner edge chip the is driving me crazy do you have a part number for it. 

81561-10350, should still be available for about 62 euros. Be careful when removing the lens they can break easily, also when installing the screws do not overdo them. I've had a few sets with cracks due to overtightened screws which keep going overtime to form a very noticeable crack.

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Edited by RoyalDutchie
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9 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

Always nice to read your posts.

I am figuring out a few things after my swap and because my mechanic doubted that my new timing belt is correctly in place I spoke to my friend who installed it do you understand if we did something wrong. We installed the timing belt in the right direction where you can read Toyota and crankshaft position was correct and the camshaft pulley was also in the correct position with its hole seeing through. We didn’t move anything I am double checked a couple of times. When we released the tensioner we also checked again to make sure. Is there a particular symptom with this engine when the timing belt is a camshaft dent off? In my opinion the engine runs well. I have other issues to solve. Let me know your opinion. Thanks

If the marks line up, the engine is in most cases timed correctly I had to turn my camshaft a few degrees clockwise(I guess it is advanced instead of retarded timing) since the tensions pulled the slack out of the cambelt which in turn threw the timing of at the camshaft, in my case the hole didn't line up with the notch in the block.

If it is off by by one tooth/dent the car will have either advanced a bit or retarded the timing. This can be noticeable powerwise, but not sure if the engine changes a lot. People with more knowledge about this should be able to answer this more clearly. 

I would at least get a timing gun somewhere and check if the timing is within spec by shorting pin Te1 and E1. Should be 9-11 BTDC, adjust it to 10 BTDC if outside spec.

Edited by RoyalDutchie
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18 hours ago, RoyalDutchie said:

I would at least get a timing gun somewhere and check if the timing is within spec by shorting pin Te1 and E1. Should be 9-11 BTDC, adjust it to 10 BTDC if outside spec.

Thank you. I have a timing gun. I was planning to do it to be 100% sure. I still cannot figure out why I have error 22 in the diagnostics. I replaced the water temp signal sensor and I tested the wiring between it and the ECU. The signal is fine so I really don’t know what is causing the issue. The car will not start when the engine is cold and only after 10 times cranking it will start properly. I pulled out the fuel rail return before starting the car in the morning and there was no fuel. Everything is connected properly but for some reason the fuel goes back to the tank. My brother thinks it could be one of the injectors that have a light leak. I do not know what to think anymore. I am planning to go to the mechanic and try fuel pressure specifica. He also told me he wants to try the cylinder compression. The car has a light blue smoke when running low RPM and also when shifting gears on high rpm. It is either a piston oil retainer leak or the rubber valve oil retainers. I was hoping it was the turbo but I will know the truth when I will pull out the spark plugs. If they will be dark and oily then we will know the reason. I did not have the budget to open the engine when I bought it. The compression was great and I was hoping it would have worked fine. My 4EFE had 237,000 km and it didn’t have such a problem. 

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  • 1 month later...

Been a while since I've updated this. Have a new place to work on the car and store it. Also bought a new daily a 6th gen civic with 82k kilometers on it now and with all the luxuries I need. Besides the civic there is also another JDM Toyota I'm looking into, we'll see.

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Cleaned and inspected the sills, the right one is just going and the left one is gone, at least the outside and some of the inside. One of the previous owners put underseal on the outside of the sills, which of course doesn't do much more than conceal the rust going on in the inside.

right:

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The right sill is worse, or at least it show how bad they are:

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Inside pic of the sill with the hole a bit further:

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Already have the replacements for the outside will be sorting this, somewhere in the winter before next summer hits.

On the bright side a bought a new set of flow formed konig wheels 15x7.5 et35, on the pic they have a 5mm spacer fitted putting them on the edge of what can be fitted. I will be running the without the spacers which will put them in a position where they have the same gap between the wheel and shock as a 7j et42 wheel. also they are 3.5mm more intruded in the wheel well compared too a 7j et25 some people fit without much scrubbing. Will be running them with slightly stretched falken ziex ze310 195/45's. These only weigh in about 11.6 lbs.

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Edited by RoyalDutchie
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57 minutes ago, RoyalDutchie said:

Been a while since I've updated this. Have a new place to work on the car and store it. Also bought a new daily a 6th gen civic with 82k kilometers on it now and with all the luxuries I need. Besides the civic there is also another JDM Toyota I'm looking into, we'll see.

Cleaned and inspected the sills, the right one is just going and the left one is gone, at least the outside and some of the inside. One of the previous owners put underseal on the outside of the sills, which of course doesn't do much more than conceal the rust going on in the inside.
right:

The right sill is worse, or at least it show how bad they are:

Inside pic of the sill with the hole a bit further:

Already have the replacements for the outside will be sorting this, somewhere in the winter before next summer hits.
On the bright side a bought a new set of flow formed konig wheels 15x7.5 et35, on the pic they have a 5mm spacer fitted putting them on the edge of what can be fitted. I will be running the without the spacers which will put them in a position where they have the same gap between the wheel and shock as a 7j et42 wheel. also they are 3.5mm more intruded in the wheel well compared too a 7j et25 some people fit without much scrubbing. Will be running them with slightly stretched falken ziex ze310 195/45's. These only weigh in about 11.6 lbs.

Well done for checking the sills out mate, sometimes you have to know! They don't look too bad.

Flow formed = big win. Used to have a set Team dynamics pro race rims on a previous car as they were forged many years ago, unfortunately it seems that their alloys are now all low pressure die cast unless you have an Elise. 

Bought any bits for the Honda yet.... is it d16 powered?

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3 hours ago, Claymore said:

Well done for checking the sills out mate, sometimes you have to know! They don't look too bad.

Flow formed = big win. Used to have a set Team dynamics pro race rims on a previous car as they were forged many years ago, unfortunately it seems that their alloys are now all low pressure die cast unless you have an Elise. 

Bought any bits for the Honda yet.... is it d16 powered?

Checked them a while back, not the worst but have to be fixed. I hope it is only the outer sill. Anyways to fix it right most will require the complete sill to be done. Could do a few patches but Doing it right in one go is the way to go. if only for peace of mind. The car will be in dry storage for most of the time now anyways. Air is dry enough to not cause any corrosion on the discs yet.

Indeed bought these wheels not only because they look amazing, they are also extremely rare here (the Dutch do like there JR and in some rare cases rota's😅). Being flow formed is indeed also a big win. Was looking for these for a while now, but wasn't sure if they would fit, with a few calculations and test fitting them I'm more confident they will fit just right. Fingers crossed🤞 Have a set of jdm coilovers and a panhard to get everything dialed in just right.

Done general maintenance on the Honda(change all the filters, fluids and belts). Also got the AC checked and filled which now works great again. Changed the exhaust for a stainless SRS g35 which doesn't sound like the general honda fart can( Did buy one of those new and returned it not much later). When you knock on those cheap mufflers and pipes you can literally hear the resonance, they just sound like tin cans. The SRS is much better build, no sound when knocking on the  muffler and general solid feel to them.  Currently powered by a d14a4 with 90ps when it was new. Thinking about swapping it with a b18c4 and turning it into a sunrise yellow type r rep, or keep it like this and make it a sleeper. The purple is growing on me just need to polish it and should be gold again.

Edited by RoyalDutchie
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  • 7 months later...
19 hours ago, burty said:

Gutted really enjoyed this thread was it the sills that finished it off ? 

Great news on another glanza though be sure to start a new build thread

The sills would still be fixable within a week or a bit more. The other bits like a cut and patched loom dented rear and rusted wheel well. Rusted battery mount and a few bits of the frame rusted. Really starts to add up and with the other projects I have, it made more sense getting a good one.

If everything works out I'll be getting a paseo (hopefully a blue one) and swap it with the 4efte and get it registered so it is a legal swap. Seen a red 1999 one in very good condition with the optional rear glanza disc brakes, but will needs to be a pre 1998 spec, since one after 1997 costs 1k or more to get everything on paper instead of 50-100.

Build thread will most likely only be on tgtt, it's just a bit more active over there. Seems the admins are not really active here anymore, could be wrong....

Edited by RoyalDutchie
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