Blue Icarian Wings Rides

[Blue Icarian Wings]

She doesn't mind me modding it, just spending the money!

tte exhaust, if i dont get a custom jobbie

I sold the old backbox so I have nowt to replace it with, it was a steal at that price, as joz pointed out they go for £100+ plus p&p, so it's staying put!

my gfs the same, think she likes the rugged manosity of it, plus she loves the smell of grease on me lol

took my girlfriend into a motorbike shop once, the petrol/oil smell drove her crazy, we had to leave before she did something lewd to me

My budget is £25 a week, so £100 a month slim but patience will pay off

[Blue Icarian Wings]

Quick update:

Picked up the Green car on mon's is as good as new

Only prob is the interior light doesn't work now!, tips on how to remove the cover without breaking it?

Also g/f passed her theory the week before xmas, and has booked the practical test for the 19th of march

[ian]

grasp the sides n pull down, shouldnt break, its quite a plyable plastic

[Jozinobi]

Ians right, it should be able to be removed gently.

Done it once before.

Joz

[SiCaln]

its pretty sturdy plastic, just stick your finger under the bit where the switch is, should pop off

[Idrees]

The interior lights doesn't work on ours either. We've changed the bulb and fuse, don't know what wrong. And that cover is strong!

[Blue Icarian Wings]

Thanks guys I'll give it a go when it's light

I'm going to put the bulb out of my car in to test if the circuit is still good, should I just get a normal bulb to put in mine, or put a coloured light in?

[Mikey Jay]

Hmm, you just gave me an idea *skulks off*

[Blue Icarian Wings]

This?

Looks right but may not be the exact one

[Blue Icarian Wings]

Finally updated the first post ot include pic of new door handles and remove damage pic of the green one

Also the interior light is fixed, took it back to them the guy was as stumped as me, as the bulb and fuse were perfect, so he said he sprayed some oil on it (the light switch mechanism under the plastic cover) and it works now!

Idrees_SR you could try that I believe it improves the contact, cleaning the contacts may help also

[Mikey Jay]

The Silver door handles look great man.

Really like how your car has progressed

[Blue Icarian Wings]

Thanks

I got a few bits in the post to come, a little secret bit or two I'm working on and that spoiler to fit, however weather and money fight me every step of the way

If the bits turn up soonish I may have an update in a week or two

[Idrees]

Thanks mate, i'll try the oil thing!!

[Blue Icarian Wings]

I've got another set of SR clocks a while back for the green car, been putting off getting them in as I was waiting on some other bits through the post.

Well they came some time this week, it was some gubbins including a central locking control box and a relay/fuse to control the electric windows, the central locking box goes behind the clocks, which is why I'd put it off no sense getting the clocks out twice, and one of the lights in my clocks is dead.

Anyways had a bit of a play today the new clocks came with some LED lights, turns out their red, and one is dead, so the clocks in my my car are all red now except for the speedo from 0 upto 80, kind funny as legal speeds are green and the rest 'over the limit' is read

Control box/relay/fuse fitted into the green car, went to fit the SR clocks but the wires are all wrong (The silver Solida was plug and play), I'm going to have to change pins over I managed to remove one pin, so I know how to do it, but looking at the spreadsheet miracle411 provided after his swpa I've still got a few questions (there appears to 1 wire left over, and 1 new position one that came from nowhere).

Anybody done the SR clocks conversion AND had to rewire the pins? how'd you get on?

[Idrees]

Sounds good mate, you get the throttle body sensors fitted?

[Guest Enzo]

wish i could help you on your question mate,

[Blue Icarian Wings]

No worries Geo, bit miffed I came dead close to fitting two different sets of SR clocks to two Starlets but couldn't finish! I'll have to drop Miracle a PM at some point, hope he doesn't mind me bugging him.

Not picked it up yet from post office depot, been busy between running the g/f around and having to work late/sat (bloody yanks, just buy Typhoon!), and it's not for my car just yet,.........

Was still a bit light when I got home, so both cars got a hot rinse, poor things should have got a proper wash but it's still getting dark too early however I did slap some WD-40 on the reamins of the L plate sticker, glue is still there, but barely visible compared to the big black marks they were before so thats good

[Blue Icarian Wings]

Had the time this weekend to get the SR clocks in the green car.

Re-clocked the SR clocks to match milage, take out the old ones, rewire, put the new ones in.

The temp needle keeps raising until it matches the fuel needle (3/4 full), the rev counter goes to 2k, BEFORE the engine starts. Acts normal when turned on, but 'idles' at 4k. Luckily still have the non-SR clocks from my car, tried them and they worked fine, so the re-wiring was fine

Tried the SR clocks in my car, same behaviour these SR clocks must be buggered, and as I've had them a good while and (not got round to fitting them for ages), they'll be out of the breakers warranty

Buggerit

Any ideas?

[Tommy_G]

dont know any thing about the clocks mate...how did you re-clock them to the right mileage?

[Jozinobi]

dont know any thing about the clocks mate...how did u re-clock them to the right mileage?

I would like to know too Wings

Is there a chance any of those other needles can be re-calibrated in any way or form?

Joz

[Blue Icarian Wings]

From a PM to Nanglebadger,......

Easiest option, fast drill in the back wind it back

An option that I didn't think of was just swapping over the dials (well I did but the faces/needle are different so I didn't bother, but have since realised I could just use the existing speedo mechanism with the sr faces, but not sure if the electrics would have the same connections)

What I did was fiddy and took ages(if have an e-mail addy send it to me, and I'll toss you a zip with all the pics I took)

-Get a pot for screws and such!

-Take off the plastic covers at the front (the clear cover and binnacle)

-Remove the 4 screws from the back holding in the speedo mechanism (2 hold it in, the other act as circuit connectors, I'd advise removing them first)

-Pop out the mechanism

-Pull of the needle (if your not scared of snapping it your being too keen tongue.gif) I may of used a screwdriver to lever it a bit and then pulled straight up with my fingers

-Remove the 2 little black screws holding the face on, the face and the plastic light-guide thing

-There should be 1 screw at the side 2 at the front remove then (NOTE the metal bar at the front stops the mileage thing rotating freely, it will close loose but not out as it's attached to the copper coloured disk behind it, DO NOT PULL OFF/OUT, do your best to keep it on the plastic bungs)

-Not sure of the order but the little bit of metal at the side (wraps around the front) needs to come off, and the bit of metal attached to a brown board at the bottom (holds a reed-valve) drops down and out

-Take a deep breath

-The front will now pull away from the back, BUT it gets caught on the adjuster (a small metal leave poking out the left side), the adjuster pivots and is wedged on a piece of plastic attached to the back, but it's sits in front of the copper disk, which is attached to the front half

-So as you pull the front away from the back you need to easy the adjuster forwards also, and just to keep you interested what out fyou don't loose the worm gear on the left that transfer drive from the back half to the speedo number cylinders

-Why did you just go through all that? simple the little brown cog on the left of the number cylinders is now free and not connected to anything (ie not-geared down slower)

-Holding the metal bar at the front to anchor the number cylinders and support the copper disk, flick the brown cog with a finger on your other hand

-You've either just put on or taken off a mile or two smile.gif

-I didn't have a drill, so I cut a flat rubber band and wound around the end of my electric screwdriver so the rotations would go further

-Putting it all back together is the same but in reverse I'd advise having the back, back side down with the worm gear facing up, as it's easier to get it the sit back properly (you get it half on then nudge with a narrow screwdriver to get it to 'pop' back in), don't forget the adjuster too!

It's a lot of fiddly work but if you don't have a fast drill like me, it'll be quicker than winding back 40k miles at 5mph

EXTRA TIPS

-Get miracles wiring diagram (if your lucky like me you won't need to rewire anything)

-I'm gonna presume you already know how todo the rest

Good luck

[Mikey Jay]

Should put that in the How To's/FAQ's section.

Could be really useful for anyone else looking at changing to the SR clocks

[Nanglebadger]

yeah it was helpful, but way too much hassle for me to bother with because i was feared of screwin up ANOTHER cluster lol so i didnt risk it! but wings defo has this down to an art!

Phil.

[SiCaln]

hey we had that chat too, glad u got it done

[Blue Icarian Wings]

I would like to know too Wings

Is there a chance any of those other needles can be re-calibrated in any way or form?

Joz

My first thought, used my old clocks to check where the temp needle sat, plugged in the SR clocks, waited as long as it took the old clocks to settle and dropped the needle back at the correct place (engine was on a bit before so the needle would lift, but swapping was done with engine off to avoid temps raising, and quickly to avoid temp drop), but left for ten mins it raised to match the fuel, so I unplugged, needle off, left the gauge to settle to it's lowest natural position, stick needle back on same behaviour

Run my car for 10 secs, remove plugs, drop them into the new SR clocks, turn engine leave to settle (a warmed engine settles at 1/2 way up) it's off to 3/4 again

On the rev counter simply giving the clocks power makes the rev needle jump(and I mean quick snap and steady hold) to 2k, engine running it moves as you would expect but with +2k revs (slammed the throttle down and got it off the dial,...... ) As it jumps as soon as it gets power, and on the working set on mine there's not even a twitch, and the wiring seems fine, I'm inclined to blame the clocks

Perhaps I should leave them in for longer to see if the temp settles at 3/4 and try doing the needle recalibration thing again, maybe the rev too, these are miracle411's old clocks and as his custom faces were faded and peeling I had to remove the needles to get them off, so the needles have on and off so much it might be that, this is such a hassle and now I'm all full of doubt

Keep meaning to scan these or the real faces in case people want to make there own (if anybody wants these send me a stamped and self addressed envelope)

Should put that in the How To's/FAQ's section.

Could be really useful for anyone else looking at changing to the SR clocks

I have a ton of photos of all I've done, keep meaning to write guides

yeah it was helpful, but way too much hassle for me to bother with because i was feared of screwin up ANOTHER cluster lol so i didnt risk it! but wings defo has this down to an art!

Phil.

Take the speedo bit out, take the face/needle off, post it to me, with the mileage you want and if you cover postage back too, I'll do it for free (not that I can do it quickly in my sleep now or anything,.....)

Also it might be possible to swap the speedo mechanisms over

ie, face/needle off both, put the non-rev counter speedo mechanism in the rev clocks, face/needle back on

As I didn't want to rewire the green car I used my old non-rev clocks but with the existing speedo. So we have non-rev speedo in car now wired for a rev counter (the mechanism has survived the different wiring) hmmmm

Phil, I strongly believe SR face/needle/plastic backing will fit on a non-rev speedo mechanism. Looking at some pics I have stashed, the mechanism should fit and wiring wise be fine also.

Get to it boy! (wish I'd thought about this sooner instead of just doing it )

hey we had that chat too, glad you got it done

Me or him?