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I’ve had a few jobs that have been needing to be done for a good few years but I’ve never bothered to get them done. As the car is currently off the road for a few bits for the MOT that was due in February I decided to add these on to the list as well. 
 

first up was removing the idle control valve. I’ve never had this thing idling properly and I’ve tried a couple of times to clean the idle control valve out but as the copper foil was broken I decided to completely remove. I made up a blanking plate that bolts into the original holes rather than removing the inlet and threading a bolt into it. Made a gasket from some flexoid gasket paper and some instant gasket later the job was done. 

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Next up was fully removing the wax stat. It seems this can also cause idle problems so I decided to do a full delete rather than the chemical metal mod it seems most people tend to do. 
 

I made a template which if anyone else reading this wants to remove the wax stat I still have and I can send them a blank of it. 
 

Tomorrow’s job is blanking off the vacuum lines and joining up the coolant lines that originally ran to this

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12 minutes ago, glanzagee said:

you wont have high idle with this removed at cold start and the rev will only rise when warm

That’s the plan. It’s slowly got more sloppy so took the plunge to remove it. I’ve been controlling the idle via the screw on the throttle body for years to try and counter it anyway

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Machined up some blanking plugs to stop any grit getting into the vacuum lines on the steering rack. Just waiting on a new throttle body gasket to arrive and I can get the car back together and set up the idle 

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If you set your idle rpm at 1k cold start should not be a problem. Just on this note your not in a cold climate are you so below 0degc. Plus you will maintain good oil pump pressure at the base rpm. Also reducing intake air temp alot this waxstat idle control valve operates at engine thermostatic temperature so standard is 89degc. After a run any one running a standard throttle body feel the temp of the thing. Hot hot hot. Mpg will be affected and you will notice it. With the reduction of inlet negative pressure and temperature. Good news is throttle response spool time and power will be improved. If you now smoothen the fuel pressure increase on the mechanical standard fpr with the aid of a vacume chamber things get better again. Now shorten the map sensor vacuum pipe and remove the inline filter and things improve again. Earthing kit to finish, and a good set of plugs and your base tune is almost ready. 

I also adjust the tps to remove the idle switch position (so basically advance it) this affects your ems ECU response time again helping throttle response, but be careful the wot switch on these when activated overfuels for safety hurting power. So you just want to set the tps so it's just off the idle switching. At the exact point of idle switch open.

I adjust fuel pressure to lean off the wot switch conditions but this must only be done by a compitant tunner. 

Edited by Sam44
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I’ve always run my idle around 1100 as the idle control and wax stat were shot so idle sometimes plummeted at a standstill and sometimes didn’t so I shall aim to maintain what I had already. Throttle response has always been pretty crisp so I shall probably leave the tps where it is

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As the intercooler pipework was off I decided to fit the gear selector cable bearing kit I’ve had laying around for years. A job I will never bother to do again! I wasn’t too keen on number of washers with the kit so I machined up some thicker washers. Unfortunately one cable is now slightly bent and the gearstick doesn’t quite move to centre from 5th but nothing major. All fitted up and ready for the rest of the car to be put back together once the throttle body gasket arrives. 

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Where was the bearing kit from mate? I bought a set from ID Works a few years ago and came with 5 washers for each bearing, this put me off fitting them as it looks sloppy. dont think il bother if this is the same kit.

Edited by JamesD89
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1 minute ago, JamesD89 said:

Where was the bearing kit from mate? I bought a set from ID Works a few years ago and came with 5 washers for each bearing, this put me off fitting them as it looks sloppy. dont think il bother if this is the same kit.

That’s where mine is from. The bearings have to be pressed in, I did it in situ and wasn’t quite as careful as I should have been. I used a big then a small washer at the back then the bearing then a small washer and a 3.6 mm washer. It has improved it just be careful when you press the bearings in. If you want I can post a pair of big washers to you at material cost?

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8 minutes ago, federalman said:

That’s where mine is from. The bearings have to be pressed in, I did it in situ and wasn’t quite as careful as I should have been. I used a big then a small washer at the back then the bearing then a small washer and a 3.6 mm washer. It has improved it just be careful when you press the bearings in. If you want I can post a pair of big washers to you at material cost?

Thanks very much for the offer mate, but I dont think il bother fitting them, I fitted a set from TD years ago, they were a 1 piece steel bearing held in with a circlip and semed to make getting into gears more difficult. Not a mod that improved the car for me tbh, hope they work for you though. Cheers again

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4 hours ago, federalman said:

As the intercooler pipework was off I decided to fit the gear selector cable bearing kit I’ve had laying around for years. A job I will never bother to do again! I wasn’t too keen on number of washers with the kit so I machined up some thicker washers. Unfortunately one cable is now slightly bent and the gearstick doesn’t quite move to centre from 5th but nothing major. All fitted up and ready for the rest of the car to be put back together once the throttle body gasket arrives. 

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take the selector arm off turn the sq clean up and grease last pic on the left where you can see brown !

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On 4/9/2020 at 7:20 PM, federalman said:

I’ve always run my idle around 1100 as the idle control and wax stat were shot so idle sometimes plummeted at a standstill and sometimes didn’t so I shall aim to maintain what I had already. Throttle response has always been pretty crisp so I shall probably leave the tps where it is

Yeh at that rpm with the waxstat removed you will be running advanced tps position (idle valve off). 

I ran a ae101 Corolla gen1 4efe ECU on a aem piggy back with a turbo throttle waxstat removed and a starlet 4efe ECU with starlet throttle the difference is the tps. The 4efe has a potentiometer type and the 4efe gen1 corolla is a 3way switch, like on the 4efte. The 4efe starlet potentiometer type and ECU is alot better for fueling adjustment threw the rpm and load range. The 3way switch type goes very rich on wot conditions hurting power. 

Edited by Sam44
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