ro55ifumi Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 AllApologies if it has been asked before but is there a guide for replacing stem seals, if not can some one detail what is needed.Also whats required to time it all back up??John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 (edited) hi mate heres a guide to removing the head Clicky just remember to keep the cam caps in order so they go back on the same ones they came off i used to number them with tipex. Then a case of useing a valve stem remove tool not sure on the timing as not had to do that yet Edited May 29, 2012 by akyakapotter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james@cjperformance Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 remove the head as per guide, you will need a valve spring compressor to remove the springs, number absoloutly everything coming off especially cam caps valves and springs, before removing the cams i would suggest making where the teeth on the cams meet with tipex.if you have standard head bolts you will need an m9 multipline tool and if replacing with arp bolts will need an m10 as for stem seals i would get in touch with zisco for some uprated ones Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shorty Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Lol cam caps are pre numbered marked with an arrow an i for inlet e for exhuast and numbers for their order. buckets shims springs and valves how ever are crucial to be marked mate. collets for the valve springs dont matter either though as they are all the same ;) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snails ep91 Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 ive got a brand new m9 spline tool spare if you need it.£10 delivered and its yours if need be Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob H@RCH Engineering Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 REMEMBER TO PUT THE SERVICE BOLT INTO THE CAM GEAR BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE CAPS!! it screws into the hole in the split gear to stop the spring tension releasing if ya dont you will be wondering why it rattles like mad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flaminsam Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Got a pic rob? Also on the gears of the cams there's two punch marks on one cam and one punch mark on the other. Line them up so they meet and that's your cam timing done. Also I know this is only me but I would still do the compressed air method. Saves disturbing the head and also you don't need to re grind in valves etc. If your planning on getting another engine to forge anyway why bother disturbing it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob H@RCH Engineering Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 (edited) There is a pick in the link to the tgtt guide to removing the head of fitting the service bolt I dont have one to hand but I do have the TOYOTA work shop manual and supplement for the engine over at the garage!As Flaminsam says its a much easyer way of doing it leaving the head on and using compressed air to hold the valves closed, Edited May 29, 2012 by Rob H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbo Grant Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 I've used the compressed air method a few times. Saves loads of time Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark-tozer Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 how does this compressed air way work then Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbo Grant Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Put the piston at tdc and have it in gear with the wheels on the floor. Put compressed air down the spark plug hole and it will hold the valves in place with out the dropping into the bore Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flaminsam Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 As grant says its so much quicker and easier than removing the head. And if you think you can just push the valves down when there's compressed air in there then you will be very suprised. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob H@RCH Engineering Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Give the valve spring retainers a tap with a hammer and a socket BEFORE you wined the piston to the top to free off the collets it will make them easier to remove once the piston is up at the top, use a pair of long nose pliers to pull off the seal or you can get some proper valve seal pliers that make the job much easier. do them one cylinder at a time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flaminsam Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 To be honest rob I was going to say do them one valve at a time, saves mixing your hydralic tappets up. Also where possible block up the oil returns to the sump, a bit of rag or something. Saves having to remove the sump if you drop something in the engine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ro55ifumi Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 Boys you fancy giving me a hand?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
zebedee Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Put the piston at tdc and have it in gear with the wheels on the floor. Put compressed air down the spark plug hole and it will hold the valves in place with out the dropping into the boreGrant did you make an adaptor to screw into the spark plug bore tp take to air line? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A L 3 X Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Is this quite a simple task if doing it without removing the head? Sounds confusing because ive never done it before :/Hoping I don't need to but preparing for the possibilities as I caught aGlimpse of some blue smoke since fitting the decat :/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TO82 Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 http://www.tercelreference.com/articles/valve_stem_seal_replacement/valve_stem_seal_replacement.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A L 3 X Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Cheers ninoooo, you can help me if I have to do it ;) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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