N/A/Turbo Hybrid engine

[loguey]

Ok So... Im picking up a lower mileage engine for my SR in a few weeks and swapping it out as my rings are shot in my current engine. (I badly want boost but really cant afford it)

So after chatting to one of the lads at work on what to do with my current engine, i was just gonna strip it down to teach myself abit more about engines and how they come apart and go back together, we have decided to try and build some sort of higher compression n/a engine.

Obviously not being a mechanic(were panel beaters) were not sure what is capable of the engine, first thing thats come to mind is the N/A block with a glanza head.

Either way im going to have an engine that is going to be rebuilt and my intentions are higher revving, higher compression.

What sorta shopping list should i go for? Not looking for silly power gains just wanna have something to say i built myself that can at least laugh in the face of zetec s' and alike.

Edited October 1, 2012 by loguey

[loguey]

Really what im asking is, what sorta cams and pistons and little bits from the other e-series engines can i put together and run to see a little increase in performance?

[morgey]

dont worry about what i just edited was me being a retard! just re-read your post.

try contact 'the quiet achiever' he has a fairly hi powered n/a, he's not from the uk i dont think but might be able to help out a bit

Edited October 2, 2012 by morgey

[StarletRick]

A glanza head will be the same as your SR. So no point pissing about with that.

Jdm FHE cams would do a turn, but are hard to come by and aren't worth the money they command.

Skim the head and get a trd head gasket if you want to up the compression, then play with the timing. That's about all you can do with an NA 4e.

Edited October 2, 2012 by StarletRick

[Keri-WMS]

If you up the compression too much you need higher octain fuel to avoid it knocking/pinking etc, not ideal these days....I would try to go oversize pistons in the 5E (even with 5E head and cams?) and get the valves and seats cleaned up properly (just blueprint the head really).

Interestingly it LOOKS like the EP8# had a higher compression 99bhp (v.1) 4E-FE where the EP9# had the lower compression 88bhp (v.2) 4E-FE...and after '97 the (v.3) 4E-FE had 82bhp in the Starlet, 17bhp drop in total! See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_E_engine

NOTE - This is google/wiki research, not first hand.

[morgey]

If you up the compression too much you need higher octain fuel to avoid it knocking/pinking etc, not ideal these days....I would try to go oversize pistons in the 5E (even with 5E head and cams?) and get the valves and seats cleaned up properly (just blueprint the head really).

Interestingly it LOOKS like the EP8# had a higher compression 99bhp (v.1) 4E-FE where the EP9# had the lower compression 88bhp (v.2) 4E-FE...and after '97 the (v.3) 4E-FE had 82bhp in the Starlet, 17bhp drop in total! See: http://en.wikipedia....Toyota_E_engine

NOTE - This is google/wiki research, not first hand.

uk ep91's had even less at 74hp :/ but the ee111 corolla's which also use the 4efe had 89hp. probably mostly down to inlet manifold (exhaust mani?) and the factory map, i think the injectors were different but if the stock ones aren't maxing out then theres no point wasting money on them.

i would like to know if the cams were different compared to the ep91's as thats an easy way to make power if they were from another non uk 4efe maybe?

[StarletRick]

all 4/5E cams are the same, except for the JDM FHE cams in the Cynos. the heads are all the same regardless of what engine they are from. there was some talk years back about the fhe heads being higher compression, but i call bullshit. ive seen them side by side and there isnt any difference.

tbh, if youre pulling the engine anyway, just get hold of a good fhe engine and swap to a 1.5.

the cynos 5E has the ACIS manifold on it, which is awesome if setup properly, and the "better" cam.

the rods are also lighter which help with the NA revvy side of things.

if i were going NA in a starlet, id go this route, and stick a good header/exhaust on.

Edited October 2, 2012 by StarletRick

[Keri-WMS]

The trouble with any form of (n/a!!) engine tuning is it's always cheaper to fit a better/bigger engine.

In my case I started with the Mk1 MR2 project (still off the road), with the 128bhp 1.6 4AGE. I cleaned up the ports and the chambers, fitted Formula Atlantic size valves, did 5-angle (from memory!) seats, cleaned up the manifolds, bought a 1.8 7AFE for the block, found two-sizes oversize 4AGE pistons, sorted out a plan for the rods etc etc etc.....all of this MIGHT get me up to about 160-170bhp, with loads still to spend, if I get the time!

But the standard 2.0 3SGE can be fitted for far far less, with about 163bhp in v.3....

....but if I fit the 3SGE I might as well go up to a BEAMS 3SGE at about 195bhp, or way over 200bhp on a remap (230/240 rings a bell).

Where do you pick the correct point to stop?!

[ro55ifumi]

Hi mate

Take a look through Rob's build http://www.ukstarletowners.com/index.php?showtopic=53321 lots of info on the 4efe

John

[loguey]

Thanks Guys. Like i say this is jus gonna be a teach myself how to work on an engine project, atm its sounding like itll be polishing everything inside and improve the breathing of it. Would be nice if i could just drop some higher lifting cams in from another E engine.

Theres no rush with this project, something to keep me from locking myself up and playing xbox i guess!!

[ryan lang]

the only reason 4efte's are lower compression is because of the pistons used, the 4efte pistons a 'dished' and the 4efe pistons are the highest compression standard piston you can put in this engine.

the only difference between the 2, are the valve springs, pistons (rods between the older model) the holes for the oil filter relocation, the sump and oil pick up and the thermo/rad pipe housing bit

you can skim the head ever so slightly, and/or just use a thinner headgasket

as for cams the 5efhe cams are the only 'standard' cams that will fit, they are rare as rocking horse shit, but they arent expensive or hard to come by if your looking in the right places. infact i bought a set for my old n/a, but never got around to fitting them. i paid £50 for them (and it wasnt through contacts, just knowing where to look)

if you look through my old build thread called tommy toyota, ive got a list on around page 25 ish which is everything i had done/had planned

most important would be the ecu side of things which i never got around too. the 4efe ecu shits itself at around 95bhp (if you can get that far)

ryan

[PaulStarletSR]

main things to change r inlet manifold, get a decatted straight thru exhaust, get a 4 to 1 exhaust manifold, induction and i believe there is such a thing as an emerald ecu for the 91 n/a's, never found 1 tho, ireland would be the place to search for 1 of those.

also strip your interior for a better power to weight ratio, you wont believe the difference it makes! just be careful tho, starlet will become very tail happy in the corners if you let off so keep her pinned ;-)

[loguey]

also strip your interior for a better power to weight ratio, you wont believe the difference it makes! just be careful tho, starlet will become very tail happy in the corners if you let off so keep her pinned ;-)

i learnt that in my 106 done some pretty rot welding looked lovely. sad times. ill see what comes up over time

[EPilot]

Hey bud,I'd say gud port,the port throat to valve seats are terribly mismatched in these heads,not a whole pile you can do with the combustion chambers,their pretty gud,jus a bit of deshrouding around the valves,lap in the valves,don't forget to change the valve stem seals,gt valve springs are loads better,FHE cams and shims,AICS manifold if you had some way of turning on off at 3800rpm,obx or similar manifol,saxo 8v 4 branch ex manifold looks like it wud fit nicely with 4e head flange!!??Round light corolla pistons AE110 are much higher comp than any of the other 4e pistons that I hav seen,Gt rods are thicker but still shite so would go for 4E rods ones for weight,anyway the cranks in the gt's have different dia journals,you can take a good bit off the flywheel also on the lathe and you can use a 1E crank pulley if you'r not usin pas or get a lightweight alloy if you are,a set of good plugs and uprated leads(4EFTE leads are too short!),Apexi SAFC is a good place to start I suppose with management,dats all I can think of now,hope this helps!!