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Getting carried away with weight loss


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Looking good Mark, nice to see it all documented. Your on the right lines, the loom can be a real pain when you come to start the car. I went a little overboard on a loom last year and couldn't get the car to start. As long as your careful then you should be okay. Personally we couldn't loose the heaters, we've run without a dash before and it causes big misting problems with our sparadic weather, not ideal when your on the track. We used a portable heater in the car but even that wasn't enough, not to mention how cold it can get in those early/late summer months.

Were now using the dash and heater matrix again, most of the crap within the dash has been removed leaving the bare minimum. We were also struggling to mount the gauges/electronics. There are 7 Greddy gauges, a 120mm apexi tacho with shift light, 2 Sard gauges. Sard Fan Controller, Sard I/C Controller, Link Boost Control Unit, Tein EDFC controller, not to mention the sat nav and radar dectector. Without the dash it would be hard to install everything whilst keeping it accessible unless I had made a custom dash which I don't have time to do, yet.

You've removed most of the essential items, sound deadening is a painful task but worth it none the less, as you say it all counts. Not sure on what you have but you can consider the following as well:

Carbon Bonnet

Zep FRP Fenders

Lexan Windows

Front Bumper Side Exit Exhaust (less material)

Lightweight Fuel Tank

FRP Doors (Custom Job)

FRP Rear Hatch

Titanium Washers/Bolts/Nuts

We are releasing Lexan lightweight window sets for the EP82 and Ep91 very soon, kits will include front side windows, rear quarters and rear hatch. These will save 60% of the window weight, are scratch/UV resistant and used commonly in Motorsport, one of the best materials. A custom fuel tank isn't too expensive and can save a substantial amount, we tried desinging an alloy tank for the front foot well. 35L meaning the weight was kept nearer the front where it should be on a FWD but space was limited and it meant loosing the passanger seat for good so we mounted it in the rear where the seats used to be. You can then use two fuel pumps and a swirl pot to feed the rail and prevent fuel starvation. After this it will start to get expensive, un-sprung weight is where it's but custom fabrication can be costly as I'm sure your aware.

Keep us up to date and we must meet soon as am sure your pretty close.

Best Regards,

Toby

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awesome work there Mark once again dude!! keep at it!!! will be awesome to see it all start to go back together too so we can all see the vision u have in your head for the car too!!!

is it just me or does everyone here wish Toby would do an indepth thread on his car in the rides section!????!!!??? i for one have never seen his car and it sounds UBER!

Phil.

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How much are the Zep fenders? could do with a set of them...Lexan in the future.

Front exit exhuast you say? what about noise levels on the track...how would you silence it to any degree...when I swap the engine out I may well do this.

by the way, on the loom front, I'm almost there. I've traced a number of wires to the front fuse box and am struggling to get to the source of them (fuse box is a ball ache) So far there have only been 2 wires redundant that go to the ECU plugs, both to the small plug.

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If company's like RC developments can get away with noise levels on front exits exhausts then you should easily be able to, i guess if they are too loud they are just baffled, or have some kind of control valve.

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Well if only trace the redundant plugs to their source and remove them there...they shouldn't affect anything else. Also if the plug source connects to something else that then only has 1 wire etc...that's safe to remove aswell, kind of work it that way. I still have about 10 wires going to the front fuse box that need removing from the plug in the box and I also have 2 wires going to the ECU plugs that are redundant too o_0

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Looking good mate, on the front exit exhaust i am sure you have to have it coming out of the drivers side for it to be legal. Incase any pedestrians get caught by it, fuck knows how that would happen like he he.

We've had this discussion I think...passenger side is legal also, look at the Transit van :p

Hoping to be ready to bind up the loom this weekend!

Update time ;)

Check out the Dremel action on that binnacle pod....

P1030784.jpg

P1030786.jpg

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well just finished removing all signs of carpetting/plastic trim (bar the sidesills to cover the wiring) in my car - one question, I take it you need to have the dash off to get rid of the sound deadening on the firewall right? Or is there a way of just ripping it out...I was worried about all the wiring about ;)

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Yeah bit of a relief :)

I've finished the fuse box now and rewrapped it all. One more check to see she runs then I can tidy up the interior.

Riko, to get to that sound matting easily the dash has to come out yes! If you've ditched the heater system it's possible to get to most of it but still hard work.

It should be ok for MOT still aswell :D

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meh, I want to keep the heater for the winter months - not for keeping warm, but for the dreaded mist. Also, is the A/C condenser pretty much that huge, errr...for want of a less blonde word....thing on the passenger side of the dash? If so I'll probably take that out tomorrow when I'm bored

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meh, I want to keep the heater for the winter months - not for keeping warm, but for the dreaded mist. Also, is the A/C condenser pretty much that huge, errr...for want of a less blonde word....thing on the passenger side of the dash? If so I'll probably take that out tomorrow when I'm bored

Basically,

Yeah lol

Behind the dash from the glovebox is the heater matrix, but behind the center console is the heater control main bit (technical aren't I) you'll need to remove that too to get to the deadening and all that gay carpeting.

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