Another set of melted pistons after remap...

[Arnold]

Is your emanage genuine?

Even if it is genuine, some of the early EMU's (Revision D or earlier) had problems which would cause major engine damage. You should only buy the EMU with a revision E board.

That above image is a revision B of an EMU which you can see stamped at the bottom right corner of the board.

If you only have an EMB, then ignore this

Edited April 18, 2013 by Arnold

[funny onion]

Yes ecu was supplied and fitted by tuning developments.

Happy to say its now running and driving again, we don't mess about!

[Taggy]

how did you get it running again so quick, did you have a spare engine and a garage?? and who fitted it lol!

[funny onion]

We've put SAMs engine in lol and yes we have a lock up. Team work, he took engine out wile I stripped turbo kit gearbox Etc and swapped bits over. No messing around haha. Done loads of engines on these between us haha!

[pick1]

We've put SAMs engine in lol and yes we have a lock up. Team work, he took engine out wile I stripped turbo kit gearbox Etc and swapped bits over. No messing around haha. Done loads of engines on these between us haha!

U animal lol

[Idrees]

Come and help me with mine please, it's been off the road for a year. I'll supply the tea and biscuits

[Taggy]

bloody hell fair does it!!

Mine isnt my daily so i didnt have such an urgency on it, plus it being forged the parts were bloody pricey, its been an expensive month, nearly £600 at TD, then a failed engine, ironiclly i bought another set of forged pistons from TD to replace the broken ones, agan another £470 and then i am back there again this Thursday, but in fairness they have said they will run it up free of charge to see if they can find what went wrong, otherwise it would have been another £250!

As a mater of fact, it was the fact TD offered to retest it it free that made my mind up to keep it, i was literally on the verge of breaking it because of it.

I hope it goes better this time!

Edited April 18, 2013 by Taggy

[shorty]

as has been stated i dont think the timing needed re checking if sam said it was bang on then i dont doubt that atal! i think the ripping the map from the ecu is a key clue right now as it will help show how the fueling has been set as has been said its possable that any other aspect of the fueling system could just as easily be at fualt. which i realy hope now its running again that its not as i presume its still same pump and filter, lines, regulator etc. if you can please rip the map as atleast that prevents any more speculation of it being td at fualt.

[triple j]

Fit a wideband it might save u melting another engine.

[AdamB]

A wideband may not help, it may not even be fuel related.

Splice a light or buzzer into the knock sensor and run it inside the car

[triple j]

I would never run a tuned car without a wideband for my own peace of mind, i would say td had a nice ignition map and fuel map to suit, if a little fuel dropped out at full boost there she goes, and as said above if it where a fake emb and it lost its map its going to run lean at full boost and melt all.

[A L 3 X]

A wideband may not help, it may not even be fuel related.

Splice a light or buzzer into the knock sensor and run it inside the car

Any chance of a how to Adam? Sounds like a

Good idea

[turbo Grant]

Surly you would need to use a conditioning circuit with an adjuster on so it pick up the right frequency for when knock is detected tho

[AdamB]

I would never run a tuned car without a wideband for my own peace of mind, i would say td had a nice ignition map and fuel map to suit, if a little fuel dropped out at full boost there she goes, and as said above if it where a fake emb and it lost its map its going to run lean at full boost and melt all.

Maybe so, but unfortunatly tuning air fuel ratio's is a day of the past when we used to run carbs and our ignition advance angle was stricken between two points.

Any chance of a how to Adam? Sounds like a Good idea

Not so much a how to, but just a case if disconnecting the sensor from the ecu and have the knock sensor itself activate a light/buzzer. This then allows the driver to back off the throttle to protect the engine. Although saying that sometimes what the knock sensor picks up maybe interference, but to know this for its best to pull the plugs and check their condition under a 4x magnifed glass for any pitting, the same can also be done using a bore scope.

If tuning an engine which has knock control I see this as a better method than tuning through det cans/knock box. Mainly on a forged engine not so on a stock engine because the pistons are too brittle. If the ecu was programmed to recieve an input from a knock sensor, make it work and use it to our advantage, no point making an engine under perform because we can hear a slight knock using det can which consequently will reduce power. Knock sensors there for a reason, if it can't detect knock it's not doing its job.

[AdamB]

Surly you would need to use a conditioning circuit with an adjuster on so it pick up the right frequency for when knock is detected tho

Most, infact nearly all new sensors would use a filter to filter out any frequencies which aren't knock, only downside to this would be that if the engine was knocking at low rpm, the sensor wouldn't be able to pick up on it, and vice versa with higher rpm's.

[turbo Grant]

You can't just put a light or buzzer on it. It's just a piezoelectric element like what's in a mic. You would need to condition it with a circuit. That's what's inside the ecu for the ecu to detect knock

[AdamB]

A Piezo can be used to detect and play tones. If you wanted to get a value of knock, like the power fc, then you will need an ADC Analogue to digital converter.

You can create your own knock detection unit fairly easily, I done it at uni using a simple Arduino board which is just a microprocessor, programmed to give a value like the PFC.

http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/KnockSensor

Edited April 19, 2013 by AdamB

[turbo Grant]

Which is a conditioner, so you can't just hook a light or buzzer up to it

[triple j]

If u wired a light to the stock knock sensor would it draw voltage when activated, if so it would give the ecu the incorrect voltage reading to retard.

[turbo Grant]

^ this also

[AdamB]

You don't connect it to the ecu, you disconnect it from the ecu and connect a light/buzzer to it. The Piezo simply creates a voltage when it detecs a vibration, this voltage can be used to power something such as a bulb.

[Taggy]

another thing to note people using AFRs who were on about it earlier, an AFR will only tell you if you car is running lean, if you timing is out your internals (like mine and funny onions did) can literally melt do the excessive temps caused by incorrect timing.

I beieve it would be much better to put in a EGT instead (exhaust gas temp sensor) this way you are covered from one sensor for both being able to identify a running lean situation (engine temps will be much higher than norm) and also poor timing will also be picked up.

Defo gonna get an EGT sensor installed come thursday!!

Edited April 19, 2013 by Taggy

[TrisK]

Disconnecting the knock sensor completely from the Ecu is bad idea

As it uses it advance/retard timing

[Hawwy]

Isnt egy exhaust gas temp sensor

[Taggy]

lol sorry your right hawwy, exhaust gas temp sensor!