rasslenny Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 I just realized that whiteline has a dealer in the us which makes life wonderful for me as i can get shipping done for next to nothing...so im about to order my full under body suspension...can you guys give me some insight as to which ones to choose as i dont know the differences in the sway bars ... im assuming the thicker bars are more stiff so less roll? and then there is the rear sway whats the difference between the adjustable and non adjustable... i mean obviously one can adjust but is it necessary? this is the website so you know what im talking about as well as for all the people in the caribbean that need stuff as shipping is WAY CHEAPER FROM THE STATEShttp://www.whitelinesuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Toyota+Starlet+1993 AdamB your up ... bring forth answers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 Thinker ARB up front decrease the chance of roll but may increase the chance of understeer. Adjustable ARB at the back is not necessary, ask anyone with an adjustable RARB how often they adjust it. Save a few quid IMO, make sure your ball joints, bushes etc. are in good condition first, then go for, RARB non adjustableALKPoly bush everythingAny rear strut brace and C pillar bar In that order, the rest isnt a must IMO. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 I can highly recommend the ALK, 24mm FARB and Fixed RARB! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rasslenny Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 (edited) already have the c pillar and the rear and front strut braces and everything is already polly bushed...the roll cage is also already in production I am about to purchase the RARB and FARB .. so screww the adjustable but which of the 4 different FARBs do i get the one with the linkages and shit i assume?the anti lift kit makes sense as well you say? Edited July 10, 2013 by rasslenny Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 Defo ALK, you can then adjust castor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 Definitely! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rasslenny Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 (edited) and which FARB am i looking at... the ones that come with all the linkages i assume.. so 22mm with all the bells and whistles? Edited July 10, 2013 by rasslenny Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 The poly drop links are decent, the ones which come with the FARB. Unless you have recently changed your drop link bushes ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rasslenny Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 i did but about a year and a bit ago and i track the shit out of the car and had to polly everything a few months ago .. those however did not change ..... and the car is lowered quite some so i should look into an adjustable pan hard rod shouldn't i Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 As everyone has said above about the setup really. Although the difference in mm with roll bars is not the thickness, its the distance between the bush mounting and the drop link connection point. The closer the drop link to the bush, the stiffer it is, the further away the softer it is. Upto you if you want an adjustable one really, if your going to be using the car as a circuit car then everything you can adjust always helps with the setup till you find something you like. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rmsnoel Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 Adjustable reat antiroll bar is only 10% more than the fixed one and will allow u to adjust for other mods to find that neutral handling. I adjust mine anytime I change tyre brands, alignment or from wet to dry season.Panhard rod will let u centre up the rear axle to have your car deive straight n true but best of all your back end wont twitch under very hard cornering when u near the limits of grip. The antilift castor kit will take the lightness out of the steering at speed. I loved it on my old car as max castor made the steering centre up again like a kart but now it just pisses me off at the level of effort needed to steer the bitch. My advice is start at the rear and work your way forward Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rmsnoel Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 If you read whiteline's own website youll see they say the adjustable rarb is needed. The fixed one is for aus cars that didnt come with a farb... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rasslenny Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 the first bars i was going to get was panhard and RARB just didnt know which to get as they seemed like small differences that would make a diff... and thanks to all of you im pretty sure i know what makes the most sense nowadjustable 22 mm RARB with all the drop links and what not adjustable panhard rod and antilift kit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 The antilift castor kit will take the lightness out of the steering at speed. I loved it on my old car as max castor made the steering centre up again like a kart but now it just pisses me off at the level of effort needed to steer the bitch. Agree with this, the anti lift kit is a bit of a personal preference thing, you have to try it for yourself, what works for one driver may not work for another. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rasslenny Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 only one way to know and thats to get it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patches Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 Although the difference in mm with roll bars is not the thickness, its the distance between the bush mounting and the drop link connection point. The closer the drop link to the bush, the stiffer it is, the further away the softer it is. On the front ARB it is thickness Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 As everyone has said above about the setup really. Although the difference in mm with roll bars is not the thickness, its the distance between the bush mounting and the drop link connection point. The closer the drop link to the bush, the stiffer it is, the further away the softer it is. Upto you if you want an adjustable one really, if your going to be using the car as a circuit car then everything you can adjust always helps with the setup till you find something you like. Absolute garbage! Its the thickness of the bars front and rear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) On the front it is because tis fixed. Why don't you check out the whiteline website and do some research before typing and making yourself look like a cock http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/BL-281.pdf Yes the thickness of the bar does make a difference, but also the material and grade of the material also makes just as much if not a bigger difference. Edited July 11, 2013 by AdamB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 On the front it is because tis fixed. Why don't you check out the whiteline website and do some research before typing and making yourself look like a cock http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/BL-281.pdf Yes the thickness of the bar does make a difference, but also the material and grade of the material also makes just as much if not a bigger difference. Or I could phone and ask them like I did?? To avoid looking like a cock Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 Why would you make an expensive phone call to Australia when all the information is publicly there to see as made clear by the manufacturer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) They have a branch in Scotland. The comment was also that the 22mm does not represent the thickness of the bar..... which it does. Edited July 11, 2013 by StuDoc 72 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 I'd reckon the big give away on that link would be the title sway bar DIAMETER conversion chart. Where you get confused is the part where that video uses the holes and says that changing the distance is 23-24-25mm. This means moving it closer obviously increases the tension and causes the bar to ACT like it is infact a thicker bar as this is whole point of the adjustability, it allows you to change your tension so the middle hole in a 24mm bar is the standard hole moving it closer increases the tension causing it to act like a 25mm bar. Put your hand under your elbow and get someone to push down on the free hand....your arm will straighten out. Now hold your wrist and get someone to push down on your free hand....its more difficult to do so. Theoretically this is what the adjustment achieves. Stick to your Haynes manual cock boy ;) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 Why don't you check out the whiteline website and do some research before typing and making yourself look like a cock Think you should be doing this Adam mate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rasslenny Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) well that escalated quickly.... its is blatantly clear that the mm reference as stated by the website defines the diameter size of each bar...AND also the resulted effect of changing the holes on the adjustable bars... making the bar theoretically a different mm size sooooooo having settled that everyone is right .... SHAT THE FAKK UPPP LOL Edited July 11, 2013 by rasslenny Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rasslenny Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 are the ultra racing RARB any good? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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