WallaceGlanza Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 I'm trying to get my glanza back on the after rebuilding the engine but it's fighting me! The current problem is the clutch isn't doing anything. When depressing the clutch it doesn't seem to disengage at all, the slave cylinder and fork seem to be moving fine (and I've thoroughly bled the master cylinder and slave cylinder): I can get gears with the car off but when running it just grinds and the clutch doesn't seem to do anything - it also doesn't rattle (Blitz/ORC rattly clutch) when the pedal is pressed. Before the engine came out the clutch was right on the limit of disengaging when the pedal was fully down and I also had the pedal adjusted as much as possible but it still worked. I didn't touch the gearbox/release bearing at all when the gearbox was off. So anything obvious I can check before the box comes off - really don't want to be doing that again! I can't think of what it will be other than something stupid like the fork isn't on the release bearing properly..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Im having a similar problem but i am managing to get forward gears without grinding at warm idle but cant at high idle. Cant get reverse at all without grinding.Very obvious the clutch isnt disengaging fully but i cant find a problem either.. completely changed my fluid for dot 4 as well and the slave isnt leaking.Im thinking there may be an issue with the master but not many people seem to think its an issue... Plus im not losing fluid :/ and bled it multiple times..Also took gearbox off for a second time to check the clutch release bearing. removed and refitted it to no avail. I know of another person with the same problem but slightly less obvious again... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Also like to add i even placed a nut between rod and arm to see if that helped and it did not make a difference, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
starletgt-shady Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Got the same problem lol. What clutch you guys got?? I struggle in first and second to disengageGot a competition clutch very harsh. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 mines standard spec 4efte clutch and flywheel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 (edited) My mate had a slight crack in his clutch fork made the car just select gears and the bite seemed to be nearly at the floor.. Edited May 24, 2014 by Gainzy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
starletgt-shady Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Yeh I split mine last year and had it welded up and plates on it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Means I gotta take my box off again :/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Means I gotta take my box off again :/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Might sound daft but i've seen it done, friction plate on the wrong way ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Can't do that with the 4efte clutch.. It would trap the centre between the cover center and the fly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Had this problem with my NA a while back. Was trying to fit a new FTE clutch and lightened FTE fly. Never figured it out and ended up putting the old stuff back on as I needed to use the car. Please keep us updated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 so it wasnt the fork for you then? only happened when you fitted fte stuff to an fe? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Thought it may have been release bearing or something. Used same fork on 4efe when I put the original stuff back, having said that I'm not sure if it's the same as a FTE one. We did fit the friction plate wrong way first time, swapped it the other way and still didn't work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 ive done 4efte clutch and fly on a 4efe before and it all worked perfect... and its what ive done this time but it didnt work lol.. I used all original stuff apart from clutch and fly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Really weird, hope you guys manage to get it sorted! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WallaceGlanza Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 Also like to add i even placed a nut between rod and arm to see if that helped and it did not make a difference, I was thinking of trying something like that too as it does feel like the fork just isn't being pushed far enough but the travel looks ok, I don't want to be taking the box off just to have nothing obviously wrong but I really can't see what it can be! I have a spare fork so if it's that it's a simple fix. I'm pretty sure I've got the friction plate on the right way too! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dj-rix Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Do you have the correct release bearing? A stock Toyota one isn't suitable for these clutches Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cushion Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Im in the same boat as well lads.Ive changed for brand new;Clutch forkClutch, pressure plate and release bearing (clutch kit)Slave cylinder (no leaks but changed anyway)There seems to be the right travel in the fork, as in its touching the pressure plate when clutch pedal touches floor (can see if you take the clutch fork rubber off)No leaks from master cylinderSelector cables are fineGearbox oil is fineGot a different box to put on (was told it was working but who knows)Im guessing that its the selectors in the box have gone as it was getting tough to change gear where I had to press the clutch twice to get it in and then there was a really quiet bang as I pulled it out of gear and then has been like this ever since. Spent ages searching for probable causes to no avail. Until I swap the box and split my one I wont know for sure if it is the selectors. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GP82 Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 This problem you are describing is usually related to a pressure plate issue. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cushion Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 There was nothing wrong with the one I took out (no damage to splines etc) which was a 6 puk paddle and the one I put in is brand new :/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WallaceGlanza Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 Surely if it was the gearbox selectors you wouldn't be able to select gears with the engine off (or can you?), as mentioned I can get the gears without the clutch and the engine off. @ dj-rix, I've been using the stock release bearing since I got the clutch (2009 maybe?) without any problems previously. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cushion Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Yeah I can as well, even if left in gear and started it jumps as if in gear. The only thing left is master cylinder and gearbox which I havent changed. The master cylinder isnt leaking and its still moving the slave so theres no loss in pressure from there. There is one issue thats happening. because ive had the box off a few times and bled the clutch 4/5 times now it is getting hard to get into 1st and 4th, not quite fully engaing into gear so thats making me think it is the selectors Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shorty Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Wallace what release bearing have you got? The oem bearing doesnt always work on an ocr kit as the orc releasr bearing is longer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dj-rix Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Surely if it was the gearbox selectors you wouldn't be able to select gears with the engine off (or can you?), as mentioned I can get the gears without the clutch and the engine off. @ dj-rix, I've been using the stock release bearing since I got the clutch (2009 maybe?) without any problems previously.You need the correct bearing as the sleeve is a lot bigger, you have most likely worn your syncros as the clutch wouldn't have ever been releasing properly, I tried an Orc with stock bearing and took it straight out after a test run, I can guarantee with the correct release bearing you will see the difference, it will make it very easy to drive, almost like stock clutch feel. There is a reason these clutches come with a different release bearing when you buy new. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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