Adeeb1395 Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 can anyone locate the input for crank and cam sensor from this pinout? this is a 26pin 16pin 4efe ecu. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jellybaby Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 they don't have one all run off the dizzy iirc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 11 sta is crank i think Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 You might have a 4 pin signal and a 12 or more pin signal like the 4a's use but unless you have coil on plug theres no direct crank angle sensor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FMuscle Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 pin 9 NE- from the dizzy...Also pin 21 to get RPM readings Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 NE and G- are 24tooth and sync respectively Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adeeb1395 Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 I knw that there is no direct sensor for cam and crank, its all from the distributer as someone told be before. But how does the ecu get to know the right time and angle for ignition? There must be an input to the ecu from the distributor to let the ecu know all the information for the ignition timing.and i am looking for that input for wiring up the aem fic6. As it requires crank and cam sensor input for contorilng ignition. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adeeb1395 Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 NENE-IGTIGFSTAIn these pins may be the information i am looking for, but i am not sure.NE (may be positive for mag type crank input)NE- (may be negative for mag type crank input)Not sure :-(Can anyone clearify it would be very helpful! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 (edited) I assume you are wiring in an aftermarket ecu? There is a 24tooth wheel and a sync wheel (two syncs) inside the distributor below the rotor which tells the ecu the engine position. They are reluctor type triggers. NE is the 24tooth trigger usually TRIG#1, G2 is the sync usually TRIG#2 (Note, depends on which ecu you are wiring in), don't normally need the second sync. Looking at the distributor plug from wire side), Trig#1 is the far right, TRIG#2 is second one in from left, far left is ground to ecu SIGNAL EARTH not main earths. IGT is the output from the ecu to trigger the ignitor (spark event output).IGF is a feedback from the ignitor to the stock ecu to confirm there has been a spark event - if there isn't any feedback the ecu will show a fault code. This isn't usually required for aftermarket ecu's. STA tells the ecu the engine is cranking which enriches the main injectors for cold start essentially. Edited September 22, 2014 by Stu Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adeeb1395 Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 Pin Name Wire Color Wire Marking Intercept/Tap1 Fuel injector 1 input Dk Blue INJ 1 IN Intercept2 Hall style sensor Cam 2 output Yellow CAM2 HALO + Intercept3 Hall style sensor Cam 1 output Yellow CAM1 HALO + Intercept4 Power GND Black PWR GND Tap5 Signal GND Black SIG GND Tap6 TPS input White TPS + Tap7 Hall style sensor Crank input Green CRK HALI + Intercept8 Mag style Crank sensor negative input Green CRK MAGI - Intercept9 Mag style sensor Cam 2 positive output Yellow CAM2 MAGO + Intercept10 Mag style sensor Crank negative output Green CRK MAGO - Intercept11 Mag style sensor Cam 1 negative output Yellow CAM1 MAGO - Intercept12 Fuel injector 2 input Dk Blue INJ 2 IN Intercept13 Logger trigger input White LOG IN NA14 Hall style Crank sensor output Green CRK HALO + Intercept15 Power GND Black PWR GND Tap16 Ignition power Red IGN PWR Tap17 Not Used Not Used Not Used Not Used18 Not Used Not Used Not Used Not Used19 Mag style crank sensor positive input Green CRK MAGI + Intercept20 Mag style Cam 2 sensor negative output Yellow CAM2 MAGO - Intercept21 Mag style Crank sensor positive output Green CRK MAGO + Intercept22 Mag style Cam 1 sensor positive output Yellow CAM1 MAGO + Intercept Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adeeb1395 Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 Pin Name Wire Color Wire Marking Intercept/Tap1 Bank 2 oxygen sensor modifier Pink O22 + Tap2 Not used Not used Not used Not Used3 Not used Not used Not used Not Used4 Hall style Cam 2 sensor input Yellow CAM2 HALI + Intercept5 Mag style Cam 2 sensor positive input Yellow CAM2 MAGI + Intercept6 Not Used Not Used Not Used Not Used7 Mag Style Cam 2 sensor negative input Yellow CAM2 MAGI - Intercept8 Hall style Cam 1 sensor input Yellow CAM1 HALI + Intercept9 Mag style Cam 1 sensor positive input Yellow CAM1 MAGI + Intercept10 Mag style Cam 1 sensor negative input Yellow CAM1 MAGI - Intercept11 Fuel injector 5 input Dk Blue INJ 5 IN Intercept12 Fuel injector 3 input Dk Blue INJ 3 IN Intercept13 Banks 1 oxygen sensor modifier Pink 021 + Tap14 MAF signal input Dk Blue MAF IN + Intercept15 MAF signal output Black MAF OUT + Intercept16 VTEC output White VTEC OUT Intercept17 Fuel injector 6 output Dk Blue INJ 6 OUT Intercept18 Fuel injector 5 output Dk Blue INJ 5 OUT Intercept19 Fuel injector 4 output Dk Blue INJ 4 OUT Intercept20 Fuel injector 3 output DK Blue INJ 3 OUT Intercept21 Fuel injector 2 output Dk Blue INJ 2 OUT Intercept22 Fuel injector 1 output Dk Blue INJ 1 OUT Intercept23 Fuel injector 6 input Dk Blue INJ 6 IN Intercept24 Fuel injector 4 input Dk Blue INJ 4 IN Intercept Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adeeb1395 Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 this is my Aem fic6 22pin and 24pin connector pinouts. as i hv come to know that our engine dont have cam sensors so i hv eliminated the cam 1 and 2 input/output wires. so only left iis crank. as a mate here told me that 5e has magnatic style sensor same as 4e so i need 2 wires to have input to the aem fic6 + and - i hv assumed that NE is mag input + for crank and NE- is mag input - for crank as well.(at my 4efe stock ecu pinout.pic given at the top of this page) is my assumtion ryt? thanx in advance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 Ah, its only a plug in. Just downloaded the software and manual, clunky... Yes use NE and NE- for crank pickup (reluctor/mag)Use G for cam sync (reluctor/mag) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adeeb1395 Posted September 25, 2014 Author Share Posted September 25, 2014 I hv wired the ecu. I hv taken ("NE" as positive for crank +) and ("NE-" as negative for crank -) and these are mag type sensors.and the connection was intercepted between the 4efe ecu and factory harness.i didnt connected any cam wires of my aftermarket ecu.But the problem is my car won't start. It sounds like there is no spark! If the crank wires are right and as i hv not connected any cam wires(intercepted/cut) to the 4efe ecu it should start ryt? Any idea?And as you said G is for cam, then i also need another wire to connect it with the after market ecu.positive and negative. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 I'd start by continuity checking between your intercept wires and the dizzy plug, make sure they're going to the right pins. I don't have the aem software but can you check its registering rpm when cranking? It may need the cam sync - most aftermarket ecu's I setup do need it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adeeb1395 Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 Ok, here is the problem. I hv logged it with my laptop.everything is fine. But there is no fuel work!.Checked the Ne+ and Ne-.the input goes to aem and then output from aem goes to ecu.aem dont feed output of ne- and ne+ to the ecu.thats y ecu is not injecting fuel thus car not starting.What can be the cause? Is tha sensor not magnetic type? Or is it hall effect? Any idea? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 (edited) Is the AEM not reading any input signal when cranking? Looking at the dizzy plug (ie from wire side) with the plug latch at the top the 24tooth pick up is the far right, sync is second in from left, ecu sensor ground far left if you need it. Double check your using the right inputs. They're not hall effect sensors EDIT: What sort of filtering does the AEM have if any? Edited September 29, 2014 by Stu Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adeeb1395 Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 Another fellow starlet owner from india had the same problem wiring the aem.by reading his thread i hv come to know that he was facing the problem because of connecting the cam input wrong.when he corrected it he managed the car to startup.i followed his wiring and checked my wiring for crank positive and negative which was fine.then i wired the cam negative input/output as he wired.but for cam positive there is no input in my ecu.it is named as G1 in his 4efte ecu pin num 8.but in my 4efe ecu the pin is blank(in my ecu all the connection is same as 4efte except few).From where i can get the cam positive input?Here is my ecu pinoutConnector A1) IPV 2) NSW (neutral start switch)3) THW (water temp)4) PIN (vacuum sensor)5) THA (intake air temp)6) IGT (ignitor)7) IGF (ignitor)9) NE- (distributor)10) OX (O2 sensor)11) STA (cranking)12) #10 (injector)13) E01 (earth)14) DISC (idle control valve)15) 16) E2 (output voltage to senssors)17) PSW (tps)18) VC (vacuum sensor)19) IDL (tps)20) SEL (for air con econ/auto)21) NE (distributor)22)E2123) 24) E1 (earth)25) #20 (injector)26) E02 (earth)Connector B1) +B1 (through EFI relay)2) BATT (from IG1 key position)3) CCO (from exhaust temp switch)4) FC (fuel pump relay closed)5) ELS1 (lights on)6) AC2 (a/c on)7) TE2 (to check connector) TE1 (to check connector)9) +B (through EFI relay)10) W (check engine light)11) EGW (exhaust temp warning light)12) AC1 (air con on economy)13) SPD (from speed sensor)14) ACT (to a/c)15) ELS2 (rear demister on)16) VF (to check connector)Thanx in advance! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 As I said above, you need the cam sync. Try the second wire from the left on the dizzy if it has one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adeeb1395 Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 It doesnt hv any cam sync as far as i came to know.is ther any other way? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 Swap in 4efte dizzy? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 (edited) Hey guys. Where does AC2 go from the ECU pinout? I’m adapting the Corolla loom to the fte ECU and the last elements to match are AC2 (that isn’t on the 4efe pinout. The Corolla 4efe ECU has only AC1. Can you help? @Claymore Edited April 9, 2022 by Frankieflowers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted April 10, 2022 Share Posted April 10, 2022 On 9/30/2014 at 6:18 AM, Adeeb1395 said: NE (distributor @Claymore The situation is quite interesting. So to recap I have a Starlet for EFTEEP 91 engine with air-conditioning and obviously ECU in a Corolla E11 4efe with electronic and coil ignition. To make the Starlet AC work I need NE and NE- signal that originally was going from the 4efe Corolla ECU from pin 1 to IGN pinout 4 on the AC computer. This signal he’s needed to have the RPM levels in order to permit the computer to switch the air conditioning on and off after engineer condition and to limit it’s work on high rpm. This system on the Starlet works differently because the computer is different. The principle is the same tho. The air conditioning computer needs a RPM signal to regulate its functioning. The easiest way to solve this would be to get the Starlet ecu NE signal but I am not sure if it is possible to split this signal that could possibly create interferences to its original function. We are creating a custom, and adoption that needs to be tested but I want to be sure I don’t fuck up. With someone be able to help me understand if I can use the NE signal or is it another signal I can pick to give the air conditioner and computer and RPM signal? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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