Calum122 Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Okay this is ROYALLY FUCKING ME OFF NOW. This issue has been going on for MONTHS and for the life of me I CANNOT GET THE BASTARD THERMOSTAT TO SEAL PROPERLY!And this is making my bloody boil beyond belief.Basically I've got this on going issue. Coolant is boiling over and filling up the expansion bottle and then leaking onto the floor. This is an issue that came with the car and I can already see that the fckers who had the car previously tried to fix this issue but couldn't so sold it to me with no warning. I can see this now due to the types of people they were that I bought it from. (BREATHE). Fine, that's fine. I really don't care. I want a car with issues that I can fix. But three months now and haven't driven the bastard thing cause I can't fix it is taking the piss.So where better to vent and get help than the forums.I can't investigate this boiling over issue until I've fixed this problem. I know that you are going to say Head gasket. Or cylinder cracked or head cracked. Not really want to hear but it's a step in a direction. The car pulls really strong. The engine feels mechanically sound.But first problem, I went to find out why this boiling over is occuring, stating simple, and working my way up.First things first, assume it's either the rad cap or the thermostat. I went with thermostat. Oh, there isn't even one in here.....handy. Well at least that is one thing checked off my list. Thermostat check.So go to replace the damn thing and realise that there was no gasket. Just a shed load of paste. I swear you only need a film. Anyway so I go to put all back together. And find out after a bit of a drive (remember that I hadn't driven this car yet so was a little too eager to do so) realise that the temperature is through the roof! FECK! Okay so I limp it home to find out the thermostat housing (just the part with the thermostat in) has gave way and pissed out water. I checked under no load to make sure there was no leaks before I set off, mistakenly assumed that this will be fine. Clearly it wasn't.Okay so now there is a possibility of some engine damage, head gasket or whatever.I go ahead and correct my mistake. Take it all apart. Clean the surfaces. Make a gasket. And try again. Go for a spin and guess what....Yep it's blown. ffs. I don't get it. Right all apart, fck it. Gasket, gasket paste, that ought to do the trick. Test drive. Nope blown. RIGHT! THAT'S IT! Gasket paste, Gasket, Gasket paste with the housing lightly skimmed. TEST FUCKING DRIVE! BLOWN. Okay now this is starting to do my head right in. Again now, just paste, fuck it this time what are the torque settings. Couldn't find any so just went for a round 15Nm. Yet still, tight as fuck, it leaks. I've had enough now I NEED HELP WITH THIS ONE!Before I can say, head gasket or cracked head etc, I need to fix this thermostat housing and want some help doing so.Would I find it an easier job if I remove the whole unit from the engine? And if I do that is there a gasket I can then use to bolt it back to the engine. Else I think I'm going to just have the same problem again!Please someone tell me the correct torque settings for this thermostat housing. Both parts if I'm going to remove the block from the engine.I get this feeling this is why there was no thermostat in the engine. Cause the moment they put one in there it caused too much pressure so kept blowing. I'm not accepting this. I AM going to fix this, with a little help from you guys would really be appreciated.Toyota Starlet GT Turbo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Although as I typed this I can see where I'm going to go. I will fix this properly.Main thing, does anyone have the torque settings for this part/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fremyjay Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 The thing is bud, once car is upto temp the system will boil over and then the weakest point in the system will blow or leak, which looks like your thermostat housing , i would get the head off as i had a similar problem with my old glanza S, rad kept blowing and pissing out water turned out to be a crack between two cylinders. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Yep sounds like an underlying issue here. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 What did you do with the crack? New cylinder?I'd be inclined to just write it off if that's the case. I want to go forged, naturally, so whilst i'm at that point it would make sense to continue and sort it all out. Not in that position at the moment to do that.Thing is, the car didn't leak out the thermostat housing before I installed the thermostat. Surely if there was a crack in there it woud have always been a problem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza-Ben Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 The thermostat housing just needs sealing don't need a gasket and clearly your engine has more issues hence it's building up pressure and over heating, my old engine on my old glanza did all this boiling over and over heating etc and the head gasket was well gone Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza-Ben Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 The engine will stay running cool with no thermostat I believe so when it's in its getting hot and doin what it's now doin, they clearly removed the thermostat as it hid the pressure/over heating issue you have Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 If the case is it's cracked or you're strongly hinting that way, then I'll get that head off asap. But otherwise I want to try and not remove the head and ideally get this car working. To say it's my daily is a lie. It's my only car. I ride a motorbike to and from work. But my bike is only capable of doing 20 mile journeys. And Ideally I would want to venture out a little more should I need to. The bike naturally would do thousands of miles. But in one sitting I wouldn't want to do more than an hour riding. Hurts my back side.Keep ideas coming though. I'm thinking of buying another housing. Assemble it in the garage. Get it all sweet. Then fit that to the car. If I've done it on a work bench and I've skimmed both surfaces and it's still leaking, then yeah maybe I will need to investigate further.Also with the cracked cylinder. I take it a speicalist welder, or a relined bore won't be a viable solution. It would really suck to throw away a 4efte cylinder. Now that they're not in production and will eventually die out I would like to keep this. But if there is no alternative then I guess I have no choice Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 That's positive Ben mate.If more people suggest this then I'll crack on with the job. The Cam belt wants doing as well as I can't see any history with it. I'm not a mechanic but I've rebuilt two engines before (2 stroke SIMPLE!) and a motorbike from the frame up with custom parts. So I don't shy away from projects (and that is why I bought this car) but I may have a job oppourtunity which will require me to have a working motor. Could use the bike but meh!Does anyone have a link to the 4efe Haynes manually. I hear they share similar features if not partsNaturally I'll want to inspect the bore at this time. I know what I'm looking at with a two stroke engine, but is there anything I want to look for with this if I've got the head off? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 First things first buddy do a sniff test, this will tell you if the HG has blown. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza-Ben Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 I would strip it down mate regardless as it's clearly had issues before.you got it and now you have over heated it and having issues with pressure build up etc so for the sake of messing around during changing bits that's chances are ain't the issue like the thermostat housing ando just do head gasket, head skim, etc and new cambelt like you said, also as for heads getting hard to come by I'm 90% sure all 4e heads are the same it's just a case of getting a different gasket for inlet Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Yeah, well that's that.Whilst the heads off, is there anything worth doing as well?I'll get a compression tester and if they're accessible a sniffer. Anyone got any links? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Defo worth changing the waterpump whilst your at it, especially if you have issues with the cooling system. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Yeah I've got a new water pump and all the belts.I'm also thinking of performance wise. I.e. would it be worth my time having the head ported and gas flowed or should I leave that until a few years time when I come to forge the engine...if it lasts that long lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza-Ben Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 As Daniel said water pump aswell if heads off may as well do stem seals to, new gaskets new head bolts etc Yeah I've got a new water pump and all the belts.I'm also thinking of performance wise. I.e. would it be worth my time having the head ported and gas flowed or should I leave that until a few years time when I come to forge the engine...if it lasts that long lolJust get a skim and could always go for a athena head gasket and arp head bolts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Yeah I've got a new water pump and all the belts.I'm also thinking of performance wise. I.e. would it be worth my time having the head ported and gas flowed or should I leave that until a few years time when I come to forge the engine...if it lasts that long lolStandard head is good for over 300bhp so you can leave that for the future and use the cash to get it fixed and on the road Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 I'll grab some Arp bolts. What are they? I've seen them for sale I just don't understand what they are. Will get the head skimmed. And why Athena Gasket? I don't want to compromise the non-interfacing head?Nice one pal. Very helpful and it's appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Do a compression check matey. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Will do. What will I be looking for for a good engine on the compression check? Does anyone have any values? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 (edited) Will do. What will I be looking for for a good engine on the compression check? Does anyone have any values?About 160 across all 4 is the norm, aslong as they are with 10% or so of each other thats fine.Anything like 130/140 and its rebuild time.A HG failure would look something like 150 50 50 150 for example Edited November 23, 2014 by daniel_g Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guyturnbull Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 I would defo say head gasket had this problem before would drive fine with no thermostat untill you stopped then it would boil up and chuck the water all over the road mine was head gasket Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 That's awesome lads.I've been stressing about this leaking for ages. If I'd thought to ask earlier I would have save myself a lot of time. Shame I'm asking this Sunday...and not friday night. Lol. Would have had something to show for today otherwise lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Well look cheers. I will finish this thread when I've solved the problem. Then hopefully some else finds it useful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 yeah 160 is a very common compression resultnot bad considering a new car had 175.I check mine regularly for peace of mind and always sits at 160+ over each Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fiddlersport Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 1 : crack in the head2: crack in the block3: head gasket failure preassure test the head for cracks (machine shop £30 approx) if its not the head then suspect is the bottom block (hairline crack maybe) seen other vehicles with the same symptons and it was the block with a hairline crack good luck with getting it all sorted Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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