Calum122 Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Trying to dismantle my engine and need to remove the cam that's attached to the belt. But I guess I'm right in saying I need to remove the cog itself before I can go any further. So does anyone have a link to a decent cam holding tool that I can use to undo and then torque back up the nut? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fiddlersport Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 along the camshaft you can fit a spanner to undo and tighten Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted December 13, 2014 Author Share Posted December 13, 2014 (edited) Is that recommended? Last thing I want to do is cause more problems. I have done this before when building engines where I've locked off the gears using similar methods. I'm just skeptical about it. And thanks for the input Edited December 13, 2014 by Calum122 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 yeah wedge a spanner or tool in near the pulley and that woll do it.used same method for years now.works well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted December 13, 2014 Author Share Posted December 13, 2014 Lol, fair enough. I'll do that tomorrow. As said I've done it when building engines, but I've always hated doing it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 (edited) Lol, fair enough. I'll do that tomorrow. As said I've done it when building engines, but I've always hated doing it. if your scared of damaging it then i recommend to just slap it with the hammer til it falls off Edited December 13, 2014 by 5e colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Got a rattle gun, worked on mine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted December 13, 2014 Author Share Posted December 13, 2014 No I don't. Don't you need an air compressor for one of those? So annoying. To tell you the truth I was just hoping to buy a GT Turbo and drive it. It's my first car and I've wanted one of these for years. I made that mistake of just buying the first car I saw like a kid at a candy store. It was just so nice to drive. I know I'm going to strip this engine down and find out it's got some serious damage. I'm not a mechanic, I work in IT FFS lol. Yeah I've built a few engines and tinkered about with mechanics but I am FAR from qualified. It's just so frustrating to buy a car that you're told is fine when it's not. I even said to the guy when I test drove it that the Head gaskets gone. And he was like nah mate DEFINITELY not the head gasket. Which tells me that he probably investigated it to find out it wants a fuck ton of work and sold it on to me. Fine, I'll sort it out. Just don't earn enough wedge to chuck at it to do. Also, I'm going to COMPLETELY fuck up the timings on this engine when I dismantle it. Now on other engines I've built, there are no valves. Thus timing was relatively straight forward. Just needed to match up the balancer shaft with piston at TDC. So going on this fairly novice angle. I'm presuming that a similar approach applies to four strokes. Put piston X at TDC. LOCK. Then match the cam gears so they mesh at the dots. And to do that presumably you just make sure Cam 2 is facing a certain way and then cam 1 the same. And then it's literally wack a timing gun on it to fine tune it back to normal/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 mark all main points on timing belt with a paint pen. do this on top pulley, bottom one and oil etc.thats how I always done it and perfect ly back on each and every time as u cant do it wrong. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted December 13, 2014 Author Share Posted December 13, 2014 Yeah but I'm replacing the belt And let's assume that the crank has already moved and well actually one set of cam lobes are already out so I will want to go back to first principles on this one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fiddlersport Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 I have had a few glanzas/starlets and when i bought my gt didnt look back, fantastic cars they are ! wouldnt go back to a glanza after driving a GT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fiddlersport Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 4EFTE/4EFE timing is not a issue to do, its a non interference engine so if you mess it up no worries, nothing will smash, just re-align and off you go plenty of guides on the web so take your time. I hav a engine which has no side covers so if you get stuck i can shoot you some photos Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 Alright sweet the heads off now. Does look like it might have just been the head gasket. Although They were driving it around like this for some time. Cowboys. Going to have to be next month now before I can take it a shop to have machined flat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Can get a electric battery rattle gun too bud. Useful tool to buy tbf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 it might be just the pic but jeez them sparky plugs look so white ( to much air not enough fuel ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 it might be just the pic but jeez them sparky plugs look so white ( to much air not enough fuel ) Don't ask Collin... Basically, I was investigating this problem a while back. And was like oh there is no thermostat. Replaced it and then took the car for MY FIRST DRIVE whilst I've had it home. I drove it home 90 miles fine. But this would be my first drive in my home town. Was absolutely loving it. Until I looked down and noticed the temperature gauge in the RED. Pulled over and popped the bonnet to find that the thermostat housing had leaked coolant, all its coolant. Had to drive it two miles with no coolant. Hence the white plugs. They were golden brown when I changed them when I got home/. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Was gonna say by the state of that you can see it was running very hot.Take the head to a machine shop and check its not warped. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 o jeez without water check for warp on the dec to no also al the silicon joints will need new sealer to be safe they might have lost there rubberyness and turned to cement Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Should not have carried in driving it mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 o jeez without water check for warp on the dec to no also al the silicon joints will need new sealer to be safe they might have lost there rubberyness and turned to cement Well it wasn't no water but by the time the temperature became significant and I noticed it would have been very little. Yeah I did get a new gasket just out of habit and did think that was odd why it was like putty when I took it off :/ I would want to get the deck checked but I'm not prepared to take the block off at this stage.I realise this IS going to bite me in the arse but I only really see one reason why I'd go that far and that would be for an engine rebuild. If I go to all that trouble then I may as well go the whole hog and do the mains at the same time. Sort it all out. Which is my intention, just not at this moment in time. I actually want to drive it for a while first. Should not have carried in driving it mate Didn't really have much of an option. I phoned everyone I knew to help but people tend to keep to themselves on a Sunday and I wasn't calling recovery for round the corner jobby. Especially a Sunday recovery for two mile job. I take the outcomes on the chin at the end of the day this car needed attention before I drove it, I may have made it worse but It was the best decision I could think of at the time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 you can check the dec urselve wit a long engineers square !!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 So if I go to Halfords and ask for a Long Weight they should be able to help me? Yeah well may as well whilst I'm there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 I drove my first starlet gt around 1 mile with no coolant.I drove in 1 minute sessions and turned of for 3-4 mins after and repeated.no ill effects.forged engine I had just completed and hour before and forgot to clamp rear coolant hose on to thermo housing properly.lol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 Aww guttering. I was fuming mate. Was a shame cause she was boosting absolutely sweet. I would have loved for thks car to have actually worked lol. It's my first ever car. I've got no mechanics background other than working on my 125. So to have this engine stripped down into bits is a bit of a stretch of my skills. But I never intended to commute in this car so there is no urgency on it. Just taking my time. I'll get there. Although I must admit, without you guys it would be a DAMN sight harder! Amazing, I could never imagine having a bash at this twenty years ago. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 dont worry mate if your doing it slowly then you can just ask ere when your stuck and well help you out :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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