TimD Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Hi, Anyone got a fool proof way of checking the rear calipers are working as they are supposed to be? I understand than can seize up, and just want to be sure they're OK. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 This would be of a lot of help to me too, got mine rebuilt professionally by Big Red a few months ago but I have a feeling one side might be sticking. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glanzatd04l220 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 just jack the rear of the car up and spin the wheel with your hand to see if its holding or spinning freely. kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Socks Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Usually you can tell from the disc face... If you get uneven wear/areas of the pad that are rusting up/handbrake is shit... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ethanep82 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Usually you can tell from the disc face... If you get uneven wear/areas of the pad that are rusting up/handbrake is shit... My handbrake is awful, is it just a case of adjusting it or things like cables need replacing? The more I used the handbrake, like pulling it up as I'm driving(just now and again) helped it a lot, until I stopped doing that and now it's shit again Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 My handbrake is awful, is it just a case of adjusting it or things like cables need replacing? The more I used the handbrake, like pulling it up as I'm driving(just now and again) helped it a lot, until I stopped doing that and now it's shit again start with adjusting it and i that doesnt yeild MOT passing results, then fresh cables will sort it. Use/Stretching will actually make it worse in theory. Though i guess if it use versus zero use then yes a little would help protect against the cables getting with the sheath and becoming one. which is usually the handrake killer - cable and sheath solid with muck corrosion dirt etc Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 If a handbrake cable needs replacing, the normal pedal operation of the brakes wouldn't be affected would it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ethanep82 Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 start with adjusting it and i that doesnt yeild MOT passing results, then fresh cables will sort it. Use/Stretching will actually make it worse in theory. Though i guess if it use versus zero use then yes a little would help protect against the cables getting with the sheath and becoming one. which is usually the handrake killer - cable and sheath solid with muck corrosion dirt etc Phil It's lucky I can "pass" any MOT anyway haha! Alright cheers for the info! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
russ78 Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 If a handbrake cable needs replacing, the normal pedal operation of the brakes wouldn't be affected would it?no it wouldnt the handbrake mechanism works different it has its own seperate seal on the side of the caliper,ive seen the handbrake seal fail before causing the handbrake to do pretty much nothing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 It's lucky I can "pass" any MOT anyway haha! Alright cheers for the info! haha nothing so simple in N.Ireland! Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Why would you want a mot if your brakes dont work properly lol. Not something id get a tester to turn a blind eye to tbh Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Mine failed after a fresh rebuild, i drove down the road with the handbrake on, took it back and they passed lolThermal expansion ftw haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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