Sefton-EP91 Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 I've done abit of reading regarding the knock sensor wiring and have seen a lot of responses regarding insulated wire/shielded wire etc. I've been getting my EML on, I've checked the codes and its 52. I want to re-wire the insulated/shielded part! Where can I get it from? Any ideas? Thanks in advance! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dean_mc88 Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 I'd take it to someone mate! I had that on my old gt I tried and tried to re wire it but nothing worked ! Got to the point where I couldn't be arsed with the car and stupidly parted the car out! If I had that issue again is 100% take it to a garage who hs the experiance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sefton-EP91 Posted January 16, 2016 Author Share Posted January 16, 2016 I'm a mechanic myself mate so am confident in doing the work myself, I just need to source some of the wire. At the end of the day it's either going to be 1, 2 or all 3 of these things.. Knock sensor, wiring or ecu! I'll start with the easy bit replace the insulated part of the loom, if not that then try source a second hand ep91 4efte ecu then new knock sensor << In that order, I know the sensors are around £100+. Start cheap! Worst case scenario it's the sensor and it will cost me £100+ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Hello mate I take it you have found the break in the wiring? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 do it simple buy a section of schielded wire and unpin the pin on the ecu plug so you can slot in the schielded wire and run true your window to the knock sensor if it still comes up u know not to butcher your loom and just change sensor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sefton-EP91 Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 Hello mate I take it you have found the break in the wiring?No I haven't found anything yet, to be honest I've not even looked at the car yet. I've done a diagnostic check that's all! I get 52. Done a small bit of research and found a lot of people have had issues with the wiring so I was going to start there! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Mine had the break in the injector loom (blue wire) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sefton-EP91 Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 I've taken my car out this morning and done about 10miles but the light has not come on! I'll source some wire and if it comes on again I'll replace the wire Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Eml light normally comes on just under 3k revs well it did on mine mate being the knock sensor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 I've taken my car out this morning and done about 10miles but the light has not come on! I'll source some wire and if it comes on again I'll replace the wire no if you use bypass wire and it comes on again then sensor swap Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 RS Online will sell shielded wire Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sefton-EP91 Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Thanks for all the comments guys, I'll take all your suggestions into consideration thanks Stu I'll have a look now! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 have you checked to see if the wire is connected properly to the sensor?...corrosion?..it may be that simple Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sefton-EP91 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 I've had a look at the sensor today and stripped it back to the fuel rail and can't see any issues at all with the wiring! Where abouts is the shield earthed? Does it earth through the ECU?Where would I replace the wire from? At the fuel rail?I am thinking its wiring related as since touching the wire today the engine light comes on every time I go over 3k rpm! I really want to get to the bottom of this problem as when the engine light is on the car pops and bangs a lot more! PLEASE HELP lol! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
karl. Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Also having the same problem at the minute. Anything over 2.5k the eml light comes on. It's now alot harder on fuel and deffo doesn't run as good. I'm hoping it's not the wiring but it most likely will be going by this and other threads. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 I've had a look at the sensor today and stripped it back to the fuel rail and can't see any issues at all with the wiring!Where abouts is the shield earthed?Does it earth through the ECU?Where would I replace the wire from? At the fuel rail?I am thinking its wiring related as since touching the wire today the engine light comes on every time I go over 3k rpm! I really want to get to the bottom of this problem as when the engine light is on the car pops and bangs a lot more!PLEASE HELP lol! from ecu plug mate depin the pin on the plug and run the whole wire to the knock sensor if it works then run it tru the firewall and tape it up on the loom dont be butchering your current loom till your certain of it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sefton-EP91 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 Thank you Colin,When I rewire it, do I need to leave abit of unsheilded wire before the Ecu and the same at the knock sensor end? Is there really any need to de-pin, could I just snip and use a heat shrink each end to rejoin? Or would this put to much resistance in the wire? Thanks again!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 you could ( BUT ) it might not work and now u fucked your loom up for nothing try to de pin the connector so you can go strait from ecu to knock to figure out whats what there Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 The shielding at the ecu end doesn't start for 100mm or so, knock sensor end its good practice to run it as close to the sensor as possible. Remember the knock sensor shield must only be connected to the sensor ground earth pin on the ecu (E21 from memory) and not connected at the sensor end. The ecu monitors the electrical inductance compared to the normal engine ground and filters that out. Also the shielding for the knock sensor is also connected to the shielding for the oxygen sensor so make sure that shield isnt touching earth at the sensor end too. The pin inside the knock sensor plug also can cause a bad connection - oil and shit can build up on it. Its the first thing I look at when fault finding knock sensor issues for customers. Clean and tighten the pin, check the base timing is set right, then if its not that look at the wiring then a sensor. About 60% of the time is the plug or wiring, and about 30% of the time its the sensor, and 10% its actually knock caused by timing/low octane fuel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sefton-EP91 Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 Thanks Stu for the comment! This is a task for the weekend Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 No problem - good luck! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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