Padders

As long as you know what you're doing ;) Need anything let me know, machining wise, advice etc

CV only make noise on full lock. Go for the wheel bearings dude.

I take it only makes the noise when you do full lock? Should be a clicking sound. Sounds like a wheel bearing to me. You can jack it up and spin it and it feels fine, but sometimes they don't make any noise until they have some weight on them.

Yes 10000%

Nope, I sent it back to the chap I bought it off. Crap workmanship that's all I'm saying.

PM

Anytime. I can do the machining, balancing, re-build....anything you want.

You can't learn about how to build an engine correctly over a few weeks on a forum. I'm not being harsh, I'm being realistic. He doesn't know what he's doing and it will end up costing him more money. I've offered him help, so I'm not being harsh at all. For the record my name isn't Paddy, nor do you have to use VW sealant. High temp RTV silicon is what he needs. If you don't know what you are talking about then don't second guess or miss inform people, because that's how mistakes happen.

Oh dear, please stop now. What have you even used for the sump, bathroom sealant?! You use a decent RTV silicone. Are you going to plastigauge the bearings? I can't imagine you are. Why don't you leave the engine building to us professionals?

You drilled the sump while it was still bolted to the engine.....oh dear Anyway, the question is what is your budget? They are an easy engine to work on, I'd suggest take the engine out and do it properly, as the standard 4efe clutch won't hold the power anyway so you'll have to take the box out. I build performance and race engines. If you need any advice or help drop me a PM. That crank will be fine by the way with a fettle. Matthew

Are you sure? Is that gauge compatible with the wide band sensor you have bought? I think that's where your problem lies.

Are you sure you have bought a wide band gauge and not a narrow band?

Are you sure it's a wideband sensor and not a narrow band?

Who the hell has mapped that? What wideband gauge and sensor have you used?

Great advice you got

Check his Facebook. Or ID-Workz sell them.

Yes just select a shim that is suitable. Does it start ok? I find it strange that all of a sudden one valve has no clearance. As I said, worn valve or valve seat. Hope the piston isn't touching the valve...hence what the noise might be.

Oh dear, inlet or exhaust? Was it just on one?

Hard to diagnose a fault over a 5 second video. Is there no clearance at all?

You don't need to remove the cams to change the shim. Pressure down on the edge of the bucket and remove the shim

It gets closer the more the valve and valve seat wears. Did you check the clearance when the engine was cold?

I bought a second hand CT9 wepr manifold the other week. It had cracked and the flange holes were 2.1-2.7mm smaller than the cylinder head, that's my only experience with them. I think they offer lifetime warranty now anyway, so maybe things have improved.

Wondered why I've had a headache for 12 years, seems to have gone now.

OEM bearings are the ideal choice, especially when there are 3-4 different STD sizes to get the correct oil to journal clearance correct. The only downside is they are a bloody fortune! It's a shame that ACL, King, Glyco etc only manufacture the middle STD size bearing.