FMuscle

I saw some on eBay for under £50. Look for 1992-2000 civic. I think Suzuki Gti rads could fit too, but mesurements would need to be checked first. I'm looking for a half rad too, and I'm a bit puzzled. What is the tube I see on top of all the civic rads? Is it an actual pipe or just a honda oem mounting point?

Just to be clear, the pic shows gaskets, it is for shape reference only. I'm after a an insulator, which is about 5mm thick, and comes alone or in a kit with gaskets and longer bolts, like this:

Hi, I have been looking all over the place for an inlet insulator for my 5E. No luck until I found this guy in USA who made them for a Tercel board. But, after a few emails, he does not have any left in stock, and cannot produce any more of them. So my question is, do any of you have: one lay around you don't use;material and equipment to make one;a link to where I can get one?I'm looking at either one of the lower 2 shapes on this pic: Thanks in advance.

Sorry about the off topic question, but what radiator is this? I'm currently shopping for one and I look for other than civic alternatives... Old fitted photo:

I had to put the Paseo wheels on earlier than expected... Got a yellow sticker, which means I got pulled over and the officer doubted of the roadworthyness of my Starlet, believed the Carat lights were aftermarket and didn't like my steering wheel and driving lights. Result, I have to go for a full inspection within ten days or forget the car. So new tyres on new wheels, ready to be looked at. The night I got pulled over, I was coming home from a late night at work, not on official business... Got my inlet painted, finally. Also emptied the A/C while the paint was drying. I just made a blank to replace the A/C switch using the blank I had over the heater controls before putting my immobilizer fob there.

I can mesure them diameters tomorrow at work, I have both 5E and 4E stock collectors. 5E laying in the shop and the 4E still doing its job

I'd take that...

I've been considering, but the 75hp N/A is not the best to pull. I might consider again after my swap.

I've seen a few N/A with towbars, never saw anything hooked on though...

10.5 Psi

200 will only be when the SC14 is switched on. I'll be running N/A with the bypass open most of the time, at about 120-125. And all numbers are theorical calculations...

I just want to know how you high powered Starlet Owners do your daily driving. When people see/hear about my engine, I get comments like "You're gonna get airborn" and "You wont be able to keep traction" I know some of you have well over 300hp, I'm looking at about 200 on paper... My Car weights 897kg as we speak, shouldn't change much after the swap.

4E and 5E are the same http://yotarepair.com/5E-FEtimingbelt.html

Yeah just saw that. Funny how it's not the same rod in both pictures... I thought it looked shinier... How much for them?

Found and added the pic to 1st post. So 1st gen and FHE are definetly not the same? Damn Wiki, letting me down... LOL I just replaced the pulley on my SC14 to push 10.5 Psi (sorry, I don't get that bar s*t yet, I just learnt how to use kilowatts so bare with me, bar is next ), so I want to make sure that the rods can take it. I read somewhere that the stock 5E internals can take up to 12Psi, but again no mention of which 5E.

I just want to know the differences between 1st gen, 2nd gen and FHE rods. I never had one of each in hand and I read different specs everywhere on the interweb... What I have now is a 1st Gen FE. It is mostly agreed that 2nd Gen is weaker. Some say FHE are stronger, some say they're the same as 1st Gen.... And if one was to gauge strenght based on pressure (Boost), which one would be the stongest? Found this pic, but it doesn't mention which 5E-FE gen it is...

I like the ones I took today. Okay, missing a few bits but still...

PM'ed

Hello. I would require you help, fellow members, to locate a few OEM Toyota parts. I'm after a set of 4E-FTE pistons. Also want a set of 5E-FHE rods. If anyone went forged and do not require these, I can give them a second chance. Greetings!

No, yes and no! I didn't bother, neither for the tails or the fog. I will paint/dip the car eventually, that'll cover the imperfections... I couldn't stand the OEM high mount! It's so big you can't even see through the glass! And there's no extra wires in the tailgate. It's not a big deal, there's only one more wire needed fro the reverse lights, as they don't get used much I can just splice the earth with the brake light or wiper. Got my rear axle finished today, ready to be installed, minus new tyres. I also piled my parts on top of each other. This is where I am now.

Here's the link.

Well I sent it as PM, but since there's demand for it, here it come: Here's a few pictures of my tail lights. You may notice the separator in the top section is missing, I removed it. You'll see why below. http://postimg.org/gallery/29kd2dz4y/ And here's how they work: Park lights: round LED pods glued behind the reflector (they're the same size as the reflectors) You can clearly see them in the 4th pic. Brake lights: I use both the high intensity side of the LED pods and a standard 21w globe. I used and rewired the reverse light socket for the brake, to have single element globes. Indicators: I put an amber globe in the lower half of the housing to use as indicator, and for extra safety, used the low side of the dual (tail/stop) socket as a back up indicator should the main globe fail (which happened twice). see pic #5, it's not clear but you can see it. Reverse lights: I used the high side of the tail/brake socket, mounted on the top half of the housing for the reverse globe. On a side note, I'll get a Glanza plate surround trim soon and will use them reversing lights. When I'll rewire, I will replace the reverse part of my carat light by a second full strenght indicator. As I said, I prefer to be seen than rear ended... And you ask about the cut, well I used the edge of the quarter panel to mark the bumper where to start the cut, and took a little bit at a time off until it fitted. I did the best I could with my not perfectly straight body (been rear-ended at some point of its life). As for the fog, not required here, but as I'm a light freak, I did install one, from eBay, the $5 "F1 style dual function" fog from china, right in the middle of the bumper. Here's a vid of the fog/brake/tail lights in action, pardon the very high quality: >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDmH51ICzpA The wiring for the fog is entirely custom made, as you can probably tell.

I've seen someone running NA ECU on turbo engine, All that he did was a 4E FTE MAP sensor and injectors double the size. <They compensate the MAP, and the MAP reads the boost correctly...

Pictures anyone? I wonder what's in the box... Oh! A SC14 supercharger! And the new pulley fitted and tested. And tonight's project was to grind the valves seats... left one done, middle one to be done.

^^^ Sure, I'll upload what I have when I get home. I don't have much, but I'll have to open them again soon, I'll snap a few more then. I received my supercharger! Looked at the pulley and almost s*** my pants... Way too small! It was meant for 6psi (from what I read) on a 2.4L and I'm putting it on a 1.5L... I toyed around and swapped the magnetic pulley with the Paseo's Air Con compressor one. Beauty of using Toyota parts for everything, the pulleys are almost bolt-on. I had to do some modifications on the pulley, move the bearing a bit, remove a brace, try different magnets and shims...BUT, I'm back in the safe zone, 10.5 Psi instead of 17.5 with the stock pulley, and it's been tested on the bench, it works perfectly. I'm happy.